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Packed climbing crags with loud fellow climbers or a nearby highways are not the best mood makers for demanding climbs. Silence, that is what we are looking for a climbing holiday and that's what Falesia del silenzio offers. West facing crag has a beautiful view over the valley and the only sound coming from buzzing bees and signing birds.
Access to the Falecia del silenzio supreme is a 30 minutes walk on a nice surroundings. For some reason we managed to pass it with only one but costly mistake. To avoid our mistake it is recommended to read and understand the approach instructions completely upfront because few of the turns can be misinterpreted. Total length of the approach walk is about 1.5 kilometers mostly on a flat or small uphill ground.Falesia del silenzio has actually two crags, supreme(upper) and inferiore(lower) sector. We visited on the upper on that has total of 36 (there are few new routes on the right hand side, we hadn't topo guide for those) routes from 5c to 7c average grade of the routes being 6b. Length of the routes varies between 15 to 25 meters.
Falecia del silenzio upper sector has mostly a good quality rock even thou it has been discovered already in 80's but be careful with overhanging routes, some those are polished and may be hard to climb. Since 80's the crag has been completely re-bolted so the bolts and anchors are in a good shape.
Crag has slabs, vertical and overhanging routes with small pockets like in many other crags in finale. When it comes to grading the routes were demanding for the grade, so be modest when choosing a warm-up routes.
For the autumn climbing crag offered a perfect warm and silent environment for a climbing day. The silence was so overwhelming that it felt like we were the only people at the mountain. Peaceful and tension free crag with mentally and physically demanding routes.
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| Finale Ligure,Valle di Rian Cornei, Falesia del silenzio superiore, 31.10.2014 |
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