Via Trento and Via del 46 Parallelo - Parete Zebrata

During the last years Parete Zebrata has been our favorite hang around wall for quick and shady afternoon climbs. One obvious reason is the shade and reasonable afternoon and evening temperature even during the hot season. Wall is climbable even during the hottest days after around 4pm so the only limiting factor is the length of the day.

Rita
On the other hand Parete Zebrata is a good wall for longer 400+ long routes during the spring and fall. Still easier long routes are not necessarily always well protected, for example old and popular route Rita has several pitches where bolt spacing is around 15-20 meters. Usually distant bolts are not in a difficult spot but sometimes additional protective gear may help while climbing. Interesting route that has a long chimney at the last third. Just the history and length of the route justifies an ascent.

Via Trento
A good afternoon or evening route to be climbed during the hot season. Some friction climbing and few harder sections than the grade 5b. Good belay stations and safe descent makes it a nice option for a relaxed evening picnic over the Sarca valley.

Via del 46 Parallelo
Oldest route on the Parete Zebrata, easy with good belays stations. It can be a good training ground for a multipitch climbing as a 180 meters long. Somewhat long bolt distances may still scare some of the beginners off. We still managed to use it as a training climb for my brother and his girlfriend so at least in our case it was a good choice for that. Grade is 4a and mostly it is that, maybe few harder spots but no friction climbing.


Over the years we have climbed at least the following routes from Parete Zebrata:

• Opera Prima, 5b, 3 pitches, 100 meters
• Via Delle Mimose, 5b, 3 pitces, 120 meters
• Donne, 5b, 3 pitches, 120 meters
• Zo Le Man, 5b, 3 pitches, 120 meters
• Gino Gianna, 5b, 4 pitches, 150 meters
• Giusy, 5b / A0, 3 pitches, 150 meters
• Via Trento, 5b, 5 pitches, 180 meters
• Via del 46 Parallelo, 4a, 6 pitches, 180 meters
• Spinelo, 6a, 7 pitches, 220 meters
• Rita, 5c, 15 pitches, 400 meters

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Switch from ice to rock faces at Regina del Lago

After four days of ice climbing and two days of snowboarding it was time to switch the mode from ice to rock. This time of the year is a perfect for longer rock climbing routes to we headed down to Sarca valley and Arco.

After the longer ice climbing routes we decided to start with shorter 110 meter routes at Regina del Lago. Regina's Prima Fascia sector has great 4-6 pitch long routes with quick approach and easy exit. And actually after climbing a longer route you have three good option, head to the sport sectors, continue longer lines at the Regina del Lago C-sector or just walk down and start the next route.

This is the second time at the Prima Fascia sector and today we climbed two 6a lines, Via Settimo Cielo and Via Messalina. Both routes were enjoyable to climb and the belay stations were relaxed with excellent view over the valley below and Lake Garda.

Prima Fascia sector has 20 know routes and we also found some fresh ones too. Majority of the routes are bolted during last 5 to 10 years. But be aware some of them have trad pitches in the middle and few of the routes are complete alpine graded. I was also surprised about the wide range of grades in the routes. Easiest ones start from 5b and most difficult ones go as high as 7b. A great range of difficulties for a one sector.

After the 2nd visit at this sector I'm convinced that this is the best part of the Regina del Lago crag.

See all photos:

Regina del Lago - multipitch routes, 23.3.2016

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Moon bears on the wall of Limarò in Sarche

If you just want to see the photos then click here

Looking for a great 9 pitches 1/2 day climb on a nice environment and with a 5 minutes approach. Well you have it. Piccolo Dain and the wall of Limarò in Sarche offers several great 9-11 pitch routes for a relaxed multipitch adventure.

We have been climbing at the wall before. Two years ago our crew topped Amazzonia (5c, 2005) and Orizzonti Dolomitici (5b, 2003). We liked the wall back then and so we decided to climb the Moon Bears route (5c, 2011).

Route is relatively new, it has been bolted between autumn 2010 and spring 2011 by Ermanno Salvaterra and Michel Ghezzi. It has total of 9 pitches and 2 of them are 5c. What makes this route special is the long dihedral-crack where the 5c pitches are. This dihedral makes the line logical and easy to follow and enjoyable to climb.

Bolting is good standard for multipitch routes but there are still few harder clips at the 5c pitches. All the anchor stands are also big enough for enjoyable belaying  which shows excellent design of the route.

Overall rock quality is good and the route is not polished. Few holds at the crux pitches are slightly polished but that doesn't make the climb any harder. First two easy 3a and 4a pitches are obviously more polished because the Amazzonia and Orizzonti Dolomitici share the first two pitches with Moon Bears.

Exit from the Moon Bears goes via traversing path through the woods towards easterly direction. Some parts of the path has via ferrata which helps with the narrow steps leading down to the Sarche.

Easy access, well thought line and a decent exit makes this route an excellent and relaxed to climb. Just try to avoid during the hot summer days when the wall is facing the sun most of the time. Recommended during cloudy summer days of during spring and autumn.

Crag grade: 4/5
Rock quality: 4/5
Bolting: 4/5
Surroundings/view: 4/5
Approach: 5/5
Exit: 3/5

See all photos:

Moon Bears, Piccolo Dain, 22.6.2015

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Sguarauunda - the password for a magnificent climbing experience

If the previous multipitch, Perla Nera, was already something extra, how to describe this now? We ended to conquer one additional multipitch route. This time our team was three climbers, when T joined us.
Nora had checked Sarca Walls (2007) guidebook several times before and during the trip, and marked the possible routes to climb. The criteria: bolted route, at least 3 stars, the safety at least of S2, 200 to 300 meters long and descent by walking. Routes were sorted into three categories: yellow = less than 6, an easy one, green = 6A/6B, very appropriate for us and red = 6c/7a, a difficult one. Earlier on this trip, we had already climbed Primi Sogni and Via Ape Maia, which were marked green, in addition the Sguarauunda (at Coste dell'Anglone) had green indicator, even though it has one pitch grade of 6c/6b+.

Facts:

• 5 stars (Sarca Walls)
• 300 meters
• 10 pitches
• 6a, 6c (6a when pulling the quickdraw)
• S2/II (S2 = Distant bolts and compulsory passages from bolt to another. Potential length of fall: 10 meters; fall without danger. Rather II = long route, easy-track approach, rather long, and easy dowmclimb)

Approach instructions were (again) a bit misleading. At Dro, there are at least two sport centers, one in named especially as Sport Center and the other not, it has a name localita' Oltra. We guess that the localita’ Oltra would have been the right one, even if we saw that only from the wall. According to the navigator we found the private parking place of the Sport Center. Fortunately, we noticed cars also in another place, because the private car park was equipped with a gate, and we did not have any idea, if the would be closed until we get back. At last we hit the road by foot to chapel mentioned in the guidebook.

After 4-5 kilometers walking, we finally found the chapel, from where we turned to the path towards the wall. It would have been very convenient if you knew that next to Sguarauunda begins the route named "Heli" (this is not in the 2007 Guidebook). We wouldn’t have visited the Pizzeria crag, to where leads a “path” having grade of four, which we at first ascent and then descent without any belaying of course. The 'Heli’ was very well marked to follow almost already from the chapel. And when we finally reached the right crag, it would have been nice to know which routes are made next to Sguarauunda since 2007… All in all, we found the Sguarauunda after two hours hiking instead of 30 minutes, which was mentioned in the guidebook.

The route followed pretty smooth slab first half of the route. Fortunately, Sami or T passed one belay stand on the slab, or the the route was changed and three pitches were merged to two pitches, due to that we avoided one hanging belay on dark and hot wall under midday sun. We didn’t manage very well in the beginning with the ropes, or the ropes were really bad behaving. They twisted around each other and made huge knots by themselves. Finally we got to the vertical wall, where located also the first standing belay with a shade. What a relief!

There were also sometimes challenges to find the next bolt, because the route had safety grade of S2, which means that bolt spacing is a little longer than S1 graded (the safest) has. Route reading was so complex that Sami missed a bolt and a belay stand and continued one and half pitches until he got lack of quick draws and made a belay on trees. T and Nora also had some hidden bolts, which they missed and led to the next one or directly to an anchor.

On the vertical wall we found lots of loose rocks. T threw few quite big rocks while leading the route, hopefully there were nobody following us on the same or the neighbor routes. Sami got hit by a couple of at least two kilos rocks on his shoulder when ascending the hardest pitch. Miraculously, Sami's grip on the left hand was so strong that he didn’t fall in spite of attack of the stones. There were plenty of slings and strings along the route hanging on bolts. Either climbers have made exit or they have made ascending possible in case of broken or lack of holds. Maybe also the grade has changed during time, when rock and holds have reformed. Between the tufas at the hardest pitch belay stand, there was a box with a notebook and a pencil. It was a pleasure to sign our names and draw the flag of Finland. The notebook was so thick that there was no time to check if there had been marks of other Finns.

After six hours of ascending we topped successfully the Sguarauunda. Yeah!! The view was spectacular and feeling like we had climbed a lot, and there was still a descent to the car. Luckily the instructions were better for descenting than for approaching. At the top, there was clear path to follow to north until the Degli Scaloni-via ferrata (obviously), along which we descented to the same small chapel, from where we started approaching. From the chapel it was still 4-5 kilometers to the car. All in all, the return from the route took an hour. We made a very good decision to move the car to the open spot in the beginning, because the private car park gate was closed.

Also this time we googled the Sguarauunda before, only we found very little information about it. The previous multipitch routes have been very well described at Bergsteigen.com webpages with a detailed drawing of the route, for example, with lengths of pitches and amount of bolts per pitch. In Sarca Walls guidebook this would be good to know information, since current edition does not have those. Summer Sport Arco Guidebook (publisher: Vertical Life) has similar info of the routes than Bergsteigen.com, only including just tens of routes in comparison of 500 in the Sarca Walls. Also approaching maps for crags could be better, including GPS coordinates, compass point and distances, in order to make orienteering to the crags easier.

/Sami & Nora

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Hunting black pearl - Perla Nera multipitch at Monte Colt

As accidentally we topped again one multipitch route. :) We were about to belay Trad Climbing Guru T for one traditional multipitch route until he got an other team mate, so we had to choose another one.

The first option was the Via Lattea, on Monte Colt crag. Length of 120 meters, four pitches, five stars (Sarca Walls Guidebook) and difficulty of 6b. Unfortunately this route is crowded, so we chose the black pearl, Perla Nera, on the other end of the Monte Colt multipitch sector. It is handy to remember almost the whole guidebook, to find a plan B route and avoid the short end of the stick situation. 

Facts:

• 5 stars (Sarca Walls Guidebook)
• 100 meters
• 4 pitches
• 6b (5c pulling the quickdraw)
• S1/I (S1 = Average distance between bolts 3 to 4 meters. Potential length of fall: some meters; fall without danger., I = Short Route, comfortable approach, nice surrounding and easy dowmclimb)

We managed with approach pretty well this time, because the track to Monte Colt follows the same path as the one to Red Point Wall Upper Sector. You just have to continue further over the the top, follow the power line and descent using via ferrata to the crag. The Monte Colt wall is surprisingly long, luckily there are some routes marked on wall to find the right one. There are also some new routes, which are not marked in the Sarca Wall guidebook 2007 version. As we planned to climb Via Lattea, which is the last route on the left, we checked the multipitch sector twice by hiking at first to the left end and then back to the right end to Perla Nera. This time Nora started to lead, to have Sami in action on the second, the hardest (6b), pitch. On the first pitch is said to be easy grade five climbing by guidebook (Sarca Walls, 2007). Ok, there are pretty good hand holds, which are very white, because of chalk, and in addition the profile is overhanging and moves aery. So, we think that the grade is a little sandbagged.

Sami's 6b pitch was quite tough, at first an overhang to cross, then delicate moves on slab to the roof and over it. The grade was very realistic, and perhaps the pitch was even easier than the Via Ape Maia's hardest pitch, if you chose the right line. Although, the route seems to be climbed pretty often, Sami dropped a cluster of rocks on the first overhang. Luckily, the belay stand was under the roof, so Nora was well covered. The third pitch was easy traverse with chimney and pillar topping in the end. The fourth pitch was again real climbing on slab with small foot holds and crimps. Maybe the difficulty was a bit harder than stands (5a/5b) in the guidebook. When Sami started to lead his last pitch, rain shower hit us. Luckily the shower was very light during Sami’s lead, but got harder and colder during Nora’s seconding. Despite the wetness, we didn’t slip and Sami’s last belay stand was in the shade of the trees. It was also very wise to carry raincoat with, like Sami did. Nora suffered her stupidity and got totally wet and cold after topping the route, because the wet shirt does not warm at all, when it winds.

This time Nora didn’t dig her iPhone for photoshoothing as often as before just to diminish drama. ;) When the descent from the top was very smooth and easy path down back to parking place, were both surprise trip and route all in all very successful and enjoyable.

/Sami & Nora

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Via Ape Maia - pushing the limits on hardcore multipitch

Via Ape Maia is a very popular 6B multipitch route on San Paolo sector to north of Arco. Since Primi Sogni went so easy, we wanted to bring our multipitch level even higher.

Via Ape Maia facts:

• 4 stars (Sarca Walls, Versante Sud), 3 stars (Summer Spots in Arco, Vertical-life)
• 200 metres 6 (7*) pitches (If you do the last stand 15 meters before the top in the trees)
• 5C, 6B (6A, by pulling the quickdraw)
• S1/II (S1 = Average distance between bolts 3 to 4 meters. Potential length of fall: some meters; fall without danger. = II, Easy-track approach, rather long route, easy down climb)

Google tells that the Via Ape Maia has been climbed quite a lot. We found a lot of images and the route the one, whereto climbers are taken to get a hardcore multipitch climbing experience. Although we didn’t expect so polished and slippery limestone on hardest parts. Since the beginning we were sure that the most of the sceptical climbers have made an exit after first pitch, but unfortunately we were wrong, and the most polished rock was on the most difficult pitches. Luckily we were the only climbers this time on the route, so we could climb at our own pace. 

Perhaps our timing for ascent was not optimal (10:00 AM - 2:00 PM), as we were on the wall at noon, the hottest time of the sun, but it didn't bothered us. A couple of hours before would have been probably the best timing. We do not recommend afternoon, because the rock becomes burning hot, even though the route is more on shade side.

Let's get back to beginning, the approach. There are several parking places along the road between crags and the river. We recommend the the one that is closest to the Ceniga intersection (ie, the Sarca River bridge crossing). Then the car is in shade during the ascent and you have the shortest descent to car. You can get into the forest several paths from the main road, you just have choose the right one... ;) Check the route names on the both sides of Via Ape Maia to find the right direction when you face the crag. Unfortunately, the route name is very poorly written on wall, more clearly with red color is written ’Spiderman’ on the left side of the target route. If Via Ape Maia is crowded, Bergsteigen.com recommends next on the right 'Biene Maia’, which is about the same grade as Via Ape Maia.

Via Ape Maia is a real climbing from start to finish and the grades are bit sandbagged. The route is as hard as several single pitch sport routes on the row, or it has got harder due to polishing. On the slab feet are slipping and on overhang your hands are slipping. Ascending requires all the time very high concentration and therefore a lot of power. Fortunately, the most of the anchors are in shade and you can stand there to save energy instead of hanging from harness.

We climbed the route in six pitches, so that Sami led the odd- and Nora led the even-numbered. Sami had the pitches of grades 5C, 6A and the hardest one 6B, Nora had one 5C and two 6A. Sami made so awesome and hard work on his hardest pitch. He really pushed his limits and was totally exhausted after it. The pitch required strength, balance, trust on shoes and hands on the polished limestone and it required especially courage, even though the bolting was very well done. Nora had very hard time when crossing the last overhang of the hardest pitch and continue to the next pitch, where were on friction, no footholds and very tiny handholds. :)

The top anchor belay is done on trees. We recommend that you either use really long slings or build the anchor few meters away from the edge. Descending from Via Ape Maia is very smooth. Follow the narrow path first to other side of the top and then to north and you end up to paved road, which takes you to Sarca river. Next to the bridge you can also jump into to river and cool your swollen toes and fingers and get balsam to your wounded knees.

We managed to climb the route, even if it was the hardest climb ever for both of us. The hardness of the route surpassed all the expectations and still we made it. It was something more than a climb, it was extreme. In addition to stupendous multipitch, we had very good luck with us, when Nora dropped her iPhone from the top, and it was found 15 metres below in the leaf bed without any scratches. A good day, a very good day!!

After a successful multipitch it is very generous to reward yourself with grande cappuccino and ice cream in Arco.

/Sami & Nora

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Primi Sogni -multipitch at Monte Colodri (South Face)

As a result of very successful multipitch (Amazzonia) last year, we planned to do a couple of multipitches this year. The first was carried out on the fourth climbing day, and the first, when the forecasts were more dry than rainy. 

The route called "Primi Sogni” at Monte Colodri South Face won the lottery (The Sarca Walls guide book) and was selected to be experienced.

Primi Sogni:

• 3 stars 
• 180 meters
• 5 pitches 5C, 6A (5C pulling the quickdraw) 
• S2/II (S2 = moderate bolt spacing and the maximum drop of 10 meters without any risk, II = easy to approach and exit, rather route)

The route description told that a couple of small friends come in handy along on third pitch. By googling we found more detailed route description and the sizes of friends (Bergsteigen.com). The German topo also recommends small nuts for the fourth pitch. Anyway I warmly recommend googling the chosen route, if you need more detailed information. There are some kind climbers to tell tips for approach, route and / or descent. Fortunately, Mika had packed the set of cams and nuts with, and he borrowed them us.

According to the instructions the car was parked at the Swimming Pool parking. I do not know whether the approaching instructions were difficult to read, or the readers made a mistake, but we didn’t find directly to the start of the route. "Leave the ferrata at the first wide bend and continue to the foot of the leaning slabs." Means that follow the via ferrata (Dei Colodri) about 50 meters to the first sharp turn to left and continue straight on the path to the first bolt.

The first pitch, Sami lead: 50 meters, the difficulty Bergsteigen.com 3, 4 -, 4 - (Sarca Walls 3a) The gentle slab, easy ramps, with well spaced. Continue over the first double bolts 12 meters up and left to the actual anchor. The second pitch, Nora lead: 53 meters, the difficulty of 4, 4, 5 - (5a, 5b) A similar slab than on the first pitch, leaning slab, just more on friction. At the end when facing the vertical wall, turn sharply to the left to find the anchor even if the bolts are shown higher on left. The extended quick draws are recommended to avoid rope drag.

The third pitch, Sami' lead: 35 meters, the difficulty of 5, 5, 6 (5c, 6a) Finally the was some real climbing. A nice flake to layback or climb over. Sami used the red camalot (0.75) in the beginning of the flake, and a little higher up a couple of small nuts (DMM 1 and 2). Sami would have used a camalot more in the end of flake, but he didn’t have small enough. The fourth pitch, Nora lead: 32 meters, difficulty 6, 5+, 5+ (5c, 6a) Again, this pitch included some real climbing. A smooth dihedral with jugs on the right and good friction for feet. The anchor on terrace behind the trees was a pleasure. A extended quickdraw recommended for the last bolt to avoid 90- degree angle on rope. There was no need for nuts, bolting was very nice on the whole pitch.

The fifth pitch, Sami lead: 38 meters, the difficulty of a 5-, 6+, 5+, 5 (6a, 6a) Definitely the most challenging, but also the most rewarding pitch. First, a tight overhang and then a bottleneck. Sami missed a bolt next to the roof, so he used a camalot (0.75) to avoid falling below the roof. Also in the end of the last dihedral Sami set a camalot (1) into the crack, when it was a bit challenging to move on from the dihedral to slab.

Sami led us to the exit of Dei Colodri -via ferrata. From the top of the route go left to the path of via ferrata and turn right to a small white stoned path. The path leads to the Laghel church, where from follow the road first to the Arco Castle and then to "Ritorno di Arco’ and you enter directly to the Arco square. After the well-earned ice cream and a cup of cappuccino follow the river north back to the Swimming Pool car park. On the way to car enjoy the wall you just topped.

The route was definitely worth experiencing, and we made it very smoothly. The anchors had two bolts and nose rings, it was easy to built a stand. Bolting was very safe, excluding the pre mentioned part on the third pitch. It was really wise to use your own pieces, although it was not difficult climbing. We strongly recommend ‘Primi Sogni', and now start the lottery again for the next ascent!

/Nora and Sami

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Excellent multipitches at Piccolo Dain in Sarche

Jarkko "on the edge" (180 meters at Parete della Centrale).

If you just want to see the photos then click here.  

Read also releated story: Amazzonia - 5 stars multipitch at Parete Limaro

Are you looking for a great climbing experience on a good rock, with easy access, good bolting and beautiful views? If all that sounds good then Piccolo Dain in Sarche is definitely the mountain to conquer.

So far our trip has been a great adventure around the sourrounded valleys and mountains. But because time runs fast we had to choose the last multipitch adventure for the holiday. The choice was Piccolo Dain's Parete della Centrale wall.

Piccolo Dain is about 17 kilometers from Arco in the city of Sarche. It offers several different walls and a great number of both, traditional and bolted multipitch routes. Routes are relatively long, around 250 meters and the longest routes are up to 450 meters.

Parete della Centrale wall is easy to recognize. It faces to west and can be seen easily on the right side of  the road from Sarche towards Madonna di Campiglio. All routes can be accessed just before the river Sarca from the dirt road on the right side. The road starts just before the river and it travels under the wall towards the power station. Routes starts from the road just before the gates of the Enel power station.

Parete della Centrale wall has several great 250 meters long routes and our picks for the day were  Orizzonti Dolomitic and Amazzonia. Both are 250 meters and 11 pitches long and grades are 5b and 5c. For the two routes we splitted into teams. Mika, Heta and Jarkko formed the first team and Nora and Sami formed the second team.

When we started at 14:30 the weather a bit too hot for efficient climbing. The first hour and a half the temperature was around 32 celcius degrees and it made climbing consuming. But then, after two hours and 100 meters, the unexpected happened. Just in five minutes the whole sky was full of dark storm clouds and rainy thunderstorm started to beat us. As usual, it was my turn to lead. After a brief group thinking we decided to continue at least one pitch further to see if the weather is getting any better. Storm was over in 40 minutes and the sky started clear just when my lead was over, typical.

Leading in the rain.

Mika's lead, up we go (230 meters left).

For our luck the rain cleaned the air and climbing after the storm was enjoyable because of the fresh air and lower temperature. Once we reached the top our total climbing time was 5 hours and the descent from the top to the nearest gelateria took additional 50 minutes.

Very enjoyable experience, definitely a must wall to visit! I'm just wondering that how I could stay here for a longer time, Garda region is such a great place to be. I'm ready to listen good ideas how group of Finns could afford staying here more permanently while adventuring around the region ;)

Heta didn't knew about the upcoming storm yet.

After the storm it was time to eat.

Belaying somewhere there.

Jarkko posing on 230 meters.

Team.

 

It took about 50 minutes from the top to the nearest gelateria.

 




Read also releated story: Amazzonia - 5 stars multipitch at Parete Limaro



 See all photos from our Picasa album:

Piccolo Dain, 8.7. 2013

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