Val Varatella and I Gumbi

I Gumbi is the first sector in the valley along the path "Sentiero delle Terre Alte". Beautiful and sunny sector offers more than 40 routes for all climbing styles and vide range of difficulties. Somehow the quiet valley and the steep red wall give a massive climbing experience. I noticed that even my normal voice echoed over the valley when climbing on the wall.

Easiest few routes start from 5a and hardest routes end up to 7b+. In general the routes are long and well bolted between the years 2003 and 2012. Overall rock quality is excellent at least on the 2012 bolted routes we climbed. Lot of long and vertical or overhanging routes are available from technical crimps to strength requiring routes. I have to admit that I enjoyd this crag and just this crag is definitely a reason to come back to Val Varatella.

And after the climbing day we headed to the "Grotte di Toirano" a 1300 long cave under the nearby mountains. But that's another story.

Read More

0

Valle del Vero and crowded Santa Lucia

Valle del Vero is in an exceptional setting between steep mountains, next to the Grotte di Toirano, the caves of Toirano and the Church of Santa Lucia. Walking further via path "Sentiero delle Telle Alte" shows also the hidden beauty of the nature in the valley. This is place is not just about climbing, it is about experiencing the surrounding nature as well.

For climbing the Church of Santa Lucia gives name to the sunny and most popular climbing sector. Reasons for the popularity are obvious, sector has a quick access and you can reach the bottom of the routes withing ten minutes from the parking. Routes are also well bolted and grade range is from easy to medium and mostly technical slabs and vertical walls in total of 22 routes.

Over the day we felt that in the noon and early afternoon the crag was too crowded at first. Rock quality was average and ok in general most probably because routes were bolted beteen 2006 - 2010. Best routes we climbed were Idefix and Obelix because of the combination of the slab and overhand in a single routes. Also Lella is worthwhile to do. Not the best of the Oltrefinale but ok for a one time visit.

Read More

0

Initial touch to the Oltrefinale - Telematica

Oltrefinale is relatively recently bolted region and new climbing location for us. Well almost, we have been twice in Finale Ligure which is only 15-20 kilometers apart from Oltrefinale. Still the difference in these too locations is amazing. The amount of relatively new routes in a small region is amazing.

Oltrefinale consists six main valleys: Val Nimbalto, Val Varatella, Val Pennavaire, Val Tanaro, Valle Argentina and Val Nervia. Our basecamp is located at Albenga so that we can easily access the Val Pannaire, Val Varatella and Val Nimbalto. Finale Ligure routes are also accessible in a reasonable time because the drive from the Albenga to Finale Ligure takes less than 30 minutes.

We started our expedition by visiting Val Pennaire that offers over 40 crags and more than 1000 routes. Valley offers a great amount of routes for different climbing styles from tufas to overhangs and slabs. 

Our expedition to Oltrefinale started from the good warmup crag Telematica, bolted 2004. Crag has total of 25 routes mostly on red and grey limestone and varying heights from 15 to 25 meters. Grade range is relatively easy from 4c to 6b+. Grading felt a bit stiff on few routes but overall level of difficulty matched well on expectations.

Telematica was a good starting point for our journey to Oltrefinale. Ok rock quality and nice vertical walls.

Read More

0

Rise Up - speed climbing and deep water solo

Relaxed social events are always great to be with friends. Millet Rise Up Tour in Arco is one of a kind happening where all climbers without distinction of age or skill can have good time together. Two days event started in Arco's climbing Arena and continued at the following morning with a deep water solo climbing event at Lake Garda.

This year I was lucky to get in the speed climbing competition. For me speed climbing is a new experience so I was climbing the route on-sight. I don't know if it is luck or Finnish mentality that let me push up to the 3rd semifinal round where I accidentally slipped and fell. After that round my next opponent for the finals would have been our ice-climbing couch from last winter's Marmolada adventure, Alessandro Beber. Well maybe it was better that I fell, he would have been too fast for me ;) Great fun thou.

Young power!

My 1st round speed climbing.

And after the competitive evening the following day started as an early morning wake-up with a paddle boat trip to the deep water solo wall. Climbing there was good but at some stage I started to wonder why I feel so cold all the time. I'm a Finn after all and cold water shouldn't be an issue and I was climbing on reasonable difficult routes. The reason for the cold became clear when I got back to home, my body temperature was 39,1 Celsius degrees, oh boy!


See the official video about the 2 days event.

I'm heading towards Madonna.

My brother Juha learns to be a superman.

Learning balance.

Late night picnic at the climbing arena.

Read More

0

Climbing for everyone at Falecia Family San Martino

We got a nice challenge this year. Our godson and his two brothers are going to visit us in the Arco. And of course they want to learn some climbing. Yahoo, but wait, they are 3, 5 and 8 years old, what we can find for them?

Easy enough access for our small mountaineer frenchie Helli.

Climbing is demanding sport and thus most of the crags have been created with the idea of stretching
your limits. That is good for the active climbers but starting of the sport becomes very hard due the fact that majority of the crags are not suitable for absolute beginners.

To solve the this issue local cities at Lake Garda have been doing excellent job by creating new easy to access and casual climbing crags for kids, beginners and families. One of such crags is Falecia Family San Martino just next to the center of Arco and famous crag Massone.

Crag passed all the test. Easy access, easy routes and good spots for a picnic. White checking the crag we also climbed all the 8 routes from Junior sector graded from 4c to 6b (9-15 meters tall) and checked the kids sector that has routes from 3-4 which are 15-20 meters tall.

This is the place where we are going to visit with our godson's family. A true 5 star experience on its class! Great work from the GardaTrentino outdoor park project, thanks!

Really nice views over Arco and Lake Garda while climbing.

Official topo. Just a notice that grades of the junior wall at routes 5 and 6 are opposite. So 5-Voldemort is actually 6b and 6-Albus Silente is actually 5c. 

Kids wall, 9 routes 4-4b grades and 18-22 meters.

Junior wall, 4-6b and 9-15 meters.

Crag is only 20 minutes by feet from the center of Arco.

Read More

0

Switch from ice to rock faces at Regina del Lago

After four days of ice climbing and two days of snowboarding it was time to switch the mode from ice to rock. This time of the year is a perfect for longer rock climbing routes to we headed down to Sarca valley and Arco.

After the longer ice climbing routes we decided to start with shorter 110 meter routes at Regina del Lago. Regina's Prima Fascia sector has great 4-6 pitch long routes with quick approach and easy exit. And actually after climbing a longer route you have three good option, head to the sport sectors, continue longer lines at the Regina del Lago C-sector or just walk down and start the next route.

This is the second time at the Prima Fascia sector and today we climbed two 6a lines, Via Settimo Cielo and Via Messalina. Both routes were enjoyable to climb and the belay stations were relaxed with excellent view over the valley below and Lake Garda.

Prima Fascia sector has 20 know routes and we also found some fresh ones too. Majority of the routes are bolted during last 5 to 10 years. But be aware some of them have trad pitches in the middle and few of the routes are complete alpine graded. I was also surprised about the wide range of grades in the routes. Easiest ones start from 5b and most difficult ones go as high as 7b. A great range of difficulties for a one sector.

After the 2nd visit at this sector I'm convinced that this is the best part of the Regina del Lago crag.

See all photos:

Regina del Lago - multipitch routes, 23.3.2016

Read More

0

Colfosco and Pissadù ice fall

Colfosco ice falls are below the great vertical faces of Sassongher and Sass de la Crusc. What a spectacular environment for climbing ice falls!

The approach to the ice falls is only 30 minutes. It is actually a short time to enjoy the surrounding views. Every step you take the mountains around you reminds how small humans are. A good reminder for a humble attitude.

But the climbing is good too. During this time of the year the ice fall was still in a good condition which is not necessarily the case every spring. The Pissadù ice fall has 3 logical pitches which make a total of 90 meters of climbable ice. Grade is not too hard 3+ and it is in shadow for most of the day.

The nature of the climb is a small adventure in a deep valley. Enjoyable and easy to access makes this ice fall a good reason to visit Colfosco. Climbing ice in a place like this makes us humble. Mi piace!

See all photos:

Colfosco and Pissadù ice fall, 21.3.2016

Read More

0

Santa Cristina and Cascata Tervela

Today's new ice fall to discover is in Val Gardena and Santa Cristina. Cascata Tarvela is a true drive in ice fall. Walk from the parking to the ice fall takes only 5-10 minutes. 

Great ice fall that is quite easy to see from the city. It offers 1-2 pitch climbs on a varying grade from WI3 to WI4+. It is an ideal place to get used to the Dolomite ice and for the days when you don't want to take the long approaches.

The view over the city of Santa Cristine is also splendid during the spring. The opposite side of the city is almost clean form the snow while you can still climb on a ice fall. Big contrast!

For us the day at the Cascata Tervela offered a good opportunity to climb several single pitch climbs and get prepared for the next multi pitch. Good day and a great reason to see Santa Cristina.

See all photos:

Santa Cristina and Cascata Tervela, 19.3.2016

Read More

0