Besagno - north west but not the best

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Sometimes you find yourself from a crag that looks good on paper but in reality it turns out to be something else. Besagno was such an experience for us.

Besagno is located behind Mori on 420 meters and facing north west. Approach is short and easy and crag has total of 31 routes making it promising enough for a visit. And on top of that guidebook tells that it is recently bolted and not too often visited and now we know why.

Crag has nice set of  long routes from 5 to 7b and most of them are in the range of 6. But then the downside. More than stiff grading and partially polished rock makes this crag hard for medium level climbers. Several routes were graded too easy on the crag and even the upgraded grades in the guidbook were optimistic.

Hard climbing with polished rock on the easier starts is not my kind of climbing. Crag may turn out ok for better climbers. So if you are solid 7a climber then you can try but if grade 6 is your beef then pick another crag for the day.

Crag grade: 2+/5
Rock quality: 2+/5
Bolting: 3/5
Surroundings: 3/5
Approach: 5/5

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Besagno, Mori, 9.7.2015

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Rough rock at Promeghin and training at Massi di Prabi

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We took a visit to Promeghin crag at San Lorenzo in Banale to see a different rock quality. Crag's face is definitely different. The whole rock face looks like that it is cast in concrete and mixed with varying sizes of smaller rocks. Because of the structure the face has a lot of different pockets, small holes and bumbs.

Driving to San Lorenzo in Banale takes about 40 minutes from Arco but the road goes on a nice mountain environment and on the few final parts Dolomites showed up on the background.

For climbing the wall offers a nice surroundings and is definitely suitable for family picnics because of good facitilities and peaceful environment. On top of that crag is next to a sport center on a beautiful shadowy environment wich makes it ideal for hot summer days.

Crag has 52 routes from 4 to 7b and majority of the routes on 6a and 6b graded.Climbing at the crag was good but not spectacular.  On few routes bolting is not neccessary optimal and grass growing from the small holes, but still routes were climbable and ok. Crag offers nice views to mountains on the back. It is excellent for families who cannot take a long and difficult approach and in that case the crag is definitely recommended.

After few hours at the Promeghin we head back to Arco to Massi di Prabi to take a more relaxed climbing and to practice some slab routes. Massi di Prabi is not the most exciting crag but it offers a good spot to train slabs (read more from our last year story about Massi di Prabi). Two of the biggest boulders are bolted and routes are graded from 5a to 7a. All the routes can be top roped easily and it is an ideal setup for trainig slab moves and balance.

Length of the day during early July is long and we were able to climb until 21:30 in a nice and shadowy environment, not bad.

Heta's late evening climbing at Massi di Prabi.

Nora climbing at Promeghin.

 

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Promeghin, 5.7.2013

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