Primi Sogni -multipitch at Monte Colodri (South Face)

As a result of very successful multipitch (Amazzonia) last year, we planned to do a couple of multipitches this year. The first was carried out on the fourth climbing day, and the first, when the forecasts were more dry than rainy. 

The route called "Primi Sogni” at Monte Colodri South Face won the lottery (The Sarca Walls guide book) and was selected to be experienced.

Primi Sogni:

• 3 stars 
• 180 meters
• 5 pitches 5C, 6A (5C pulling the quickdraw) 
• S2/II (S2 = moderate bolt spacing and the maximum drop of 10 meters without any risk, II = easy to approach and exit, rather route)

The route description told that a couple of small friends come in handy along on third pitch. By googling we found more detailed route description and the sizes of friends (Bergsteigen.com). The German topo also recommends small nuts for the fourth pitch. Anyway I warmly recommend googling the chosen route, if you need more detailed information. There are some kind climbers to tell tips for approach, route and / or descent. Fortunately, Mika had packed the set of cams and nuts with, and he borrowed them us.

According to the instructions the car was parked at the Swimming Pool parking. I do not know whether the approaching instructions were difficult to read, or the readers made a mistake, but we didn’t find directly to the start of the route. "Leave the ferrata at the first wide bend and continue to the foot of the leaning slabs." Means that follow the via ferrata (Dei Colodri) about 50 meters to the first sharp turn to left and continue straight on the path to the first bolt.

The first pitch, Sami lead: 50 meters, the difficulty Bergsteigen.com 3, 4 -, 4 - (Sarca Walls 3a) The gentle slab, easy ramps, with well spaced. Continue over the first double bolts 12 meters up and left to the actual anchor. The second pitch, Nora lead: 53 meters, the difficulty of 4, 4, 5 - (5a, 5b) A similar slab than on the first pitch, leaning slab, just more on friction. At the end when facing the vertical wall, turn sharply to the left to find the anchor even if the bolts are shown higher on left. The extended quick draws are recommended to avoid rope drag.

The third pitch, Sami' lead: 35 meters, the difficulty of 5, 5, 6 (5c, 6a) Finally the was some real climbing. A nice flake to layback or climb over. Sami used the red camalot (0.75) in the beginning of the flake, and a little higher up a couple of small nuts (DMM 1 and 2). Sami would have used a camalot more in the end of flake, but he didn’t have small enough. The fourth pitch, Nora lead: 32 meters, difficulty 6, 5+, 5+ (5c, 6a) Again, this pitch included some real climbing. A smooth dihedral with jugs on the right and good friction for feet. The anchor on terrace behind the trees was a pleasure. A extended quickdraw recommended for the last bolt to avoid 90- degree angle on rope. There was no need for nuts, bolting was very nice on the whole pitch.

The fifth pitch, Sami lead: 38 meters, the difficulty of a 5-, 6+, 5+, 5 (6a, 6a) Definitely the most challenging, but also the most rewarding pitch. First, a tight overhang and then a bottleneck. Sami missed a bolt next to the roof, so he used a camalot (0.75) to avoid falling below the roof. Also in the end of the last dihedral Sami set a camalot (1) into the crack, when it was a bit challenging to move on from the dihedral to slab.

Sami led us to the exit of Dei Colodri -via ferrata. From the top of the route go left to the path of via ferrata and turn right to a small white stoned path. The path leads to the Laghel church, where from follow the road first to the Arco Castle and then to "Ritorno di Arco’ and you enter directly to the Arco square. After the well-earned ice cream and a cup of cappuccino follow the river north back to the Swimming Pool car park. On the way to car enjoy the wall you just topped.

The route was definitely worth experiencing, and we made it very smoothly. The anchors had two bolts and nose rings, it was easy to built a stand. Bolting was very safe, excluding the pre mentioned part on the third pitch. It was really wise to use your own pieces, although it was not difficult climbing. We strongly recommend ‘Primi Sogni', and now start the lottery again for the next ascent!

/Nora and Sami