Initial touch to the Oltrefinale - Telematica

Oltrefinale is relatively recently bolted region and new climbing location for us. Well almost, we have been twice in Finale Ligure which is only 15-20 kilometers apart from Oltrefinale. Still the difference in these too locations is amazing. The amount of relatively new routes in a small region is amazing.

Oltrefinale consists six main valleys: Val Nimbalto, Val Varatella, Val Pennavaire, Val Tanaro, Valle Argentina and Val Nervia. Our basecamp is located at Albenga so that we can easily access the Val Pannaire, Val Varatella and Val Nimbalto. Finale Ligure routes are also accessible in a reasonable time because the drive from the Albenga to Finale Ligure takes less than 30 minutes.

We started our expedition by visiting Val Pennaire that offers over 40 crags and more than 1000 routes. Valley offers a great amount of routes for different climbing styles from tufas to overhangs and slabs. 

Our expedition to Oltrefinale started from the good warmup crag Telematica, bolted 2004. Crag has total of 25 routes mostly on red and grey limestone and varying heights from 15 to 25 meters. Grade range is relatively easy from 4c to 6b+. Grading felt a bit stiff on few routes but overall level of difficulty matched well on expectations.

Telematica was a good starting point for our journey to Oltrefinale. Ok rock quality and nice vertical walls.

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New crag experiences for Sami and Nora - Le Piazzole, Noriglio and Red Point Wall

Arco is a climbing heaven, there is no doubt about it. There is no need to go to the same cliffs as last year, you can find plenty of new stone to finger. Last year we went to twelve different places and only one place (Coltura) we visited twice. All the crags were good in a way. This year we scouted 23 new sectors or crags to check out. Until now, we have surveyed two of them and a third came from the Garda Trentino Climbing Guide, which have also our recommendation. Of course, on the page of Calvario, where our climbing wedding pics are taken.

New crags:
Le Piazzole is high up, at 550 meters, which means long hiking to reach the place. The place is relatively new and therefore there is a lovely friction, on most of the routes. At the first visit, there was time to test only a couple of the routes on the right side of the crag, before the rain hit us and we were forced to leave. The place made so big impression, that we decided to do the hiking soon again.

'Best of Arco' guide says that the approach will take 25 minutes. At the first time we used 35 min and on the second time 30 min. So, there is some improvement, but still you have to reserve time for approaching, only you get a very intense warm-up. The track is mostly hidden by trees, in shade, but still there is very warm on sunny days. Our experience on second visit was that there is totally different kind of stone, profile and route grading on the left side of the crag, except the routes on the left edge. The routes of queens and kings are overhanging, slippery and very intense with delicate moves. So, the ‘Gardatrentino' and ‘Arco2011’, the 6B routes on slabby wall and with friction, were sent onsight, but Dmitry, Anna and Qixin beated us, even if they are graded 6A/6A +.

'Arco Walls’ guidebook does not have Le Piazzole at all. And in the' Best of Arco' guidebook is not mentioned the lengths of routes on the right sector. That tells how new the place is and how fresh is the friction there. Lengths of the routes on right sector are mentioned in the board on place and in the Gardatrentino Climbing Guide. The left sector offers shade for belayer before noon and the right sector in afternoon. The left sector is also more open and mild wind refreshes climbers. We did not visit at all the central sector, because there are only above seven graded routes. Maybe next year. :)

Noriglio is in Rovereto, which is some distance from Arco (about 30km). The approach instructions to crag are quite reasonable, but there is also huge opportunity to miss the paved road to the left. Before the orange house on the left, turn sharply left to the paved road, even if it looks like to end up to closed port.


Noriglio is an old place and the route grading follows the same style. Either the routes have become more challenging by climbing or route grading has been tighter in past. Sure, we climbed shorter (10m) routes on sector C in 'Best of Arco' guidebook and the upper right side of the D-sector, but the similar grades have been beaten already this year. The place was ok, but not worth of second visit, even if there are longer routes on the other sectors.

Red Point Wall is totally worthy of the name! In spite of, Sami onsighted and Nora flashed one 6a route on the Upper sector of ‘Arco rock’ guidebook. Red Point Wall offers intensive projecting on overhanging wall with hidden holds and athletic moves, and if you have power enough, rewarding sending. We had power enough only for one struggling per route. On the right at Upper-sector, there is some differing in grading with guidebooks. The route was told to be 6A+ or 6B, but it felt at least 6B+ or even harder. Still, the Red Point Wall is worth of experience, at least we made real climbing moves, we crimped, cranked, hooked, dynoed and all the other miracles to get higher. Pretty tight set for a day off...

We warmly recommend Le Piazzole of these new experiences, even though we hardly hike there third time on this trip. Noriglio did not seem to be a pleasant place, too old style and too much climbed and hot, even if the belayers are in shade. Red Point Wall was a something totally different and very interesting place to earn some sent routes, because you’ll really have to push hard to beat them.

/Sami & Nora

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Rian Cornei, Falesia del cinghiale - long, sharp and demanding

If you just want to see the photos then click here.

Finale is known of demanding routes and pockets. I heard from one fellow climber how he used to have 6b:s as a warmup but in Finale he ended up having a projects on his warmup 6b routes. His tip for me was to have humble attitude when choosing routes.

Today we had humble feelings. Our target was Falecia del cinghiale at Rian Cornei. Approach is quite long and demanding but guidebook had good and correct instructions how to get there. Crag offers great rock, good bolting and tall routes, on average 20+ meters.

Grades of the routes start from 5c and end up to 7c, majority being at the 6a+ range, but don't be fooled, routes are more demanding what the grade states. Wall has pockets like in many others crags in Finale, here the speciality was pockets with sharp rock.

Heta in the cave. Few 7 routes started from here.

Sharp rock and pockets makes overhanging routes and bulges painfull in same cases. The sharp edge of a pocket on an overhanging route can be painfull for fingers when you have to keep up the body weight. I was able to manage vertical routes with sharp pockets but immediately when the route had overhaning bulges my fingers started to scream.

Artistic rock shapes.

And then about grading. Finale is known to have demanding routes and majority of the routes start from the 6 or 7 range. Even the easy 5 routes are sometimes surprising. Grading on the best case is tight but correct like in Falesia della luna.  Today I climbed 25 meters 5c as a warmup and in some crags that would have been typical long 6a. And the 25 meters 6a would have been 6a+. But once I took the 17 meters 6a+ I felt complete beaten up. At the Falesia del cinghiale the difference between 6a and 6a+ was more than typical difference between 6a and 6b. Typically I onsight all 6a+ routes and some 6b routes, but today the overhanging 6a+ got me. And after that I decided to have a nice cooldown route, overhanging 13 meters 5c, I did it, but it was a true fight.

6a+ just under the bottom bulge.

Great long and challenging lines, recommended if you are 6a to 7 climber!



See all photos:

Finale Ligure,Rian Cornei, Falesia del cinghiale, 5.10.2013

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Rocca Carpanea, Falesia delle Tecchie

 If you just want to see the photos then click here.


Rocca Carpanea is another great playground like the nearby Rocca di Perti. Both mountains are nearby the Finale Ligure and offer a great selection of crags and routes to explore. Rocca Carpanea has total of 21 crags and our target for the day was sector Falesia delle Tecchie.

Falesia delle Tecchie has total of 28 routes from 5b to 8b, majority of the routes are 6a and 6b graded. Rock is good quality and routes are not polished. Bolting is good but few of the maillons at the top might be worn out. Length of the routes varies between 10 to 22 meters and the average route lenght is around 18 meters. Crag has a relatively easy access, 10 minutes from parking, and path is mostly well marked with red dots as usual in the region. Crag is facing west and the top anchors offers great views over the Finale and to the Mediterranean Sea.

Nature is always a part of the rock climbing and  we got a good reminder of it today when one of the planned route had an active bees nest and a scorpion at the bottom. On the next route I was wondering the wet feeling of the holds, and surprise, some bat poo was waiting in the holds. Bees and a scorpion at the bottom were good reminders to check that
cortisone pills were still in the first aid kit.

During the day we climbed total of 6 routes and skipped one because of bees. Good day, nice crag, defnitely recommended even with some bat poo.

6a balance test slab.

Bees nest in a 6a+ route.

View over Finale Ligure from road to Rocca Carpanea.

  

See all photos:

Finale Ligure,Rocca Carpane, Falesia delle Tecchie, 3.10.2013, 2.10.2913

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Red and white walls of Rocca di Corno

If you just want to see the photos then click here.

Rocca di Corno offers enjoyable routes on red and white walls. Wall consists of 6 separate crags or sections located around the corner.

Approach is relatively easy if you are familiar with narrow roads and steep turns, here small car is recommended. From the parking it took about 10 to 15 minutes to reach the walls. Small detail from the appraoch is that it passes an ancien Roman route with a well-preserved bridge, Ponte delle Fate.

During the day we visited at the Ghiro and Futura walls. Routes in the sectors are mainly vertical but there are few overhanging sections.  Both, Giro and Futua are well bolted and have routes from 5a to 7a. Majority of the routes were graded 6

Melted rock shapes.

and length of the routes varies between 10 to 23 meters. Overall grading was tight, routes are not undergraded but definitely hard for the given grades. Rock quality is good and routes are not too polished.

Environment was quiet and relaxed. Only the noices of birds and the nearby farm's rooster's sound was on the background. On some parts the wall looked like a melted organic material. Silence, weird rock shapes and the strong colors of red and white made the atmosphere unique.

During the day we climbed 5 routes from Heta's 5a to mine 6b+ top rope project.  Hardest route of the day was definitely the 6b+  Igor with small pockets (one finger pockets) and delicate exit. Route required finger strength, was consuming and took some time, energy and dedication to get it through. Final route for the day was a bit easier our own variant, combined accent from 5c and 6a+ that wasn't walk in a park either but I completed it onsight.

See all photos:

Finale Ligure, Rocca di Corno - Futura - Giro, 1.10.2913

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Rocca di Perti - a huge playground

If you just want to see the photos then click here.


Rocca dei Perti has something for every climber, mountain has crags from sport climbing to multi-pitch walls. Region has total of 19 crags in a relatively small area and approaches from two main entry points. Longest multi-pitch routes are longer than 100 meters and there are lot of long sport routes too. Rocca di Perti has enough routes to offer for a whole summer holiday from beginner to higher level climbers. The only downside is that the nearby motorway A10 causes some background noice on few sectors.

Approeach to the crag goes next to Mediterranean Sea.

Yesterday's visit to Rocca dei Perti was cut short due the rain so we decided to head back. Our crag for the day was Falesia dei tre porcellini (cliff of three little pigs). Crag has total of 32 routes from 5a to 6b+ and a lot of them are longer than 20 meters. Routes are recently and well bolted and it is offering a good selection of lines for a medium level climber. Several of the lines are multipitch routes (2-3 pitches). Routes are mainly slabs with crags with few corners (arêtes). Rock quality is good and not polished so even the hardest 6b slabs are in excellent condition.

Nice, approach via palm streets.

During the day we climbed total of 6 routes Heta's 5b, two 5c and 6a routes and one 6b route. All climbed routes were well graded, enjoyable and offering enough challenge for the given grades. Most enjoyable climbs for the day were Topo Gas Gas 5c - nice slab moves and an overhanging section, Biancanave - short 6a arête and Pinoccio - short 6b slab with few reaches on small fingery holds.

Falesia dei tre porcellini, great crag for 5 to 6b+ climbers on good quality rock, recommended.

View from the top.

Mediterranean Sea can be seen from the top.

Enjoyable 5c slab.

Enjoyable 5c slab.

Enjoyable 5c slab hold.

See all photos:

Finale Ligure, Falesia dei Tre Porcellini, 30.9.2013

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Amazzonia - 5 stars multipitch at Parete Limaro

Read also releated story: Excellent multipitches at Piccolo Dain in Sarche

Whooo! What an experience in many ways, physically tough, challenging to climb, mentally exhausting, but still so awesome and gorgeous!

Multi-pitch climbing is a climbing route that cannot be climbed with one rope length and it requires one or more stops at a belay stations. Each section of actual climbing between stops at the belay stations is called a pitch.

Our team, Sami and Nora, chose to climb as their first real multipitch the route Amazzonia (5/5 stars at Sarca walls Guidebook) at Piccolo Dain sector at Parete Del Limaro in a town of Sarche. Amazzonia is 250 meter high and consists of 11 pitches. The most difficult grade is 5C and there are only four pitches under 5, the first three pitches and the last one. We climbed the entire route alternating: the leader ascended the pitch and stopped to a belay station and then the second ascended to a belay station, where we exchanged to a new leader for the next pitch. Sami started as the first leader for the whole route.

Sarca walls guidebook: Amazzonia and Orizzonti Dolomitici

The approach to the start of the route didn’t go very smoothly. We followed the instructions from older guidebook (2007, new 2013), which directed us to cross the Sarca river. Fortunately, the other team had an updated guidebook, which has dry feet approach to the crag. But what begins badly, cannot end badly, this is an experience. ;)

It took 6 hours in total to approach and ascent the Amazzonia. When Nora leaded her longest and most difficult pitch (6. pitch, 5a+5b “amazing slab”), hit the rain. Yippee!! :D No excuses, just had to keep moving upwards despite the rain. Luckily it all went well and no need to pull from quickdraw, even if it is allowed on multipitch oute. Fortunately term “slab” does not always mean positive wall with only couple of crystals on limestone, but it could be positive wall with some kind of holds, even with jugs. :)

Sami had his Suunto Ambit to track the ascent and it showed over 2500 kcal burned when we topped the route! This explains why we were really exhausted on the top of Amazzonia… The routes did lot of curves and the ropes were very heavy after the rain, so it was hard work to pull them during the lead and at belay station. Nora had only water to drink in her hydration back bag and Sami had hydration drink (North Force Extreme) in his Camelbak. There was no time for breaks because found the descending route same time as dusk arrived. This meant that we had only approximately 30 minutes to get down to our car. The route down was NOT any highway, 45 degrees hill with fist sized round stones to surf on. Legs were jelling for help, but no time to stop or even slow down a bit. Luckily with the guidance help from our other climbing team we managed to get down just before the darkness came…! Note to ourselves: Head light in the back bag wouldn't have been a bad idea to carry with...

It took almost a week to recover from the Amazzonia. The most exhausted was to pull the wet rope at belay stations. The new rope, Beal Joker Unicore 9.1 mm, worked perfectly, but the old rope, Beal Diablo Unicore 9,8 mm, was really heavy. Otherwise the equipment and hardware worked molto buono. Nora’s Miuras became wet but not slippery, Helly Hansen surfing shirt was excellent choice, The North Face Chugach back bag was unnoticeable and Petzl Elia helmet with Bolle sunglasses protected Nora’s precious head. Sami got his new La Sportiva Testarosa shoes just days before the multipitch, now they fit perfectly to his feet after being soaking wet. Norrona’s Fjorå back bag was excellent choice and did not disturb lead climbing at all. Helmet was really important since rocks fell down all the time.

When we belayed, we took shoes off and stood in stocking feet on rock. Fortunately we didn’t drop any gear and especially ATC guides (Petzl Reverso 4), because we had only one extra with us. We should have used longer slings when the route made bigger turns to avoid friction. We even skipped some clips to make the route straighter.

Gear ready for journey

We managed well with the signals until the last pitch. Nora was so tired that she didn’t realized what Sami meant with his signals, there was 5 meters slack in Joker rope. Sarca river passed just below the crag and the hairpin road to Madonna di Campiglio started across the river, so there was no possibility to hear any shouts. Pitches were zikzaking as mentioned before and there were a lot of forms on the wall, so there was neither any visual contact. The sign language consisted of different rope pulling sets. What we really consider for next multipitch are the walkie talkie radios. Sure it adds the weight, but could help a lot if rope communication is not enough…

Even if the descent route was quite challenging, we were happy that there was one. Rappelling would have been almost impossible, because of fatigue and difficulty to find belay stations.

Overall, the Amazzonia is indeed worth of 5 stars. The route is safe (bolt spacing about 2 meters and you can stand on every belay station), diverse and challenging. It has nice views, good rock and easy access (when you know the right one). All in all an amazing, wonderful and never to be forgotten experience for both of us!!

With love, Nora and Sami

Upwards from some belay station in the middle of Amazzonia

And downwards, to Sarche town, from the same spot

It begun to blur when we reached the top of Amazzonia

Exhausted climbers on the top

After awesome experience with the gear on. Nora has the heavy Diablo and Sami has the light Joker.

- See more in Finnish at: Treenipäiväkirja - La Multipitch
- Releated story: Excellent multipitches at Piccolo Dain in Sarche

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