Summer in the middle of a winter holiday

 If you just want to see the photos then click here. 

We have been wondering for some time now if it would be possible to have a holiday where both, winter and summer activities could be combined. And now, almost accidentally, that dream is actually coming true. 

After the day at Madonna di Campiglio's snowy slopes we decided to see if the nearby rock climbing cracks are already accessible. Plan was to find a reasonable late winter climbing crag nearby Madonna di Campiglio. Based on the climbing guidebooks we spot a suitable crag called Sunny Place nearby Stenico. Guidebook claimed that it would be perfect during the early spring but too hot during the summer months. And it would take less than hour and is located only 45 kilometers away from Madonna.

So we decided to head down to Stenico. After the first 20 minutes once the narrow serpentine road was cleared down to Pinzolo we noticed that the outside temperature had raised up to 16 Celsius degrees. Day actually started to look promising for rock climbing.

After half an hour of driving we realized that our path would pass one of our favorite crag, Coltura. Pretty soon after that Coltura's high walls were in front of us facing the sun. It became immediately clear that instead of the additional driving and 30 minutes approach march we would start climbing immediately. At the same time the outside temperature was showing amazing 22 degrees. All of a sudden winter changed into a warm summer day. Luck or what, but for some reason we had packed our summer clothes with us. Now it became clear that light clothing and sun lotion were actually needed.

Temperature at the wall was even higher than 22 degrees, most probably around 26 Celsius degrees, giving a distant glimpse of the hot summer months. So season's opening climbs reminded us about the requirements for hot summer days, you just can't drink too much! This was an excellent opening for the upcoming rock climbing season!

Oh, about the routes, I don't know if it is the weather or lack of skills but my maximum heart rate during the hardest climb was 202. It is high even for younger fellows, so I guess that the route was demanding enough for an old fart.

Heta is pushing hard.

Madonna is somewhere there 35 kilometers away.

Sun is just slipping behind the mountains.

See all photos:

Madonna di Campiglio, Coltura, 17.3.2014

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Gathering at Coltura

Heta leading 5b at Coltura.

If you just want to see the photos then click here. 

Jarkko, Mika, Heta, Sami, Nora, Niina and Juha.

  

Storm passed by.

Who we are? Rock Blocks is a group of friends from Finland who love to travel, especially in Italy. Our (Mika's & Heta's) history goes already  back to year 2001 when we spent a week in Malcesine. Back then we didn't knew that much about great opportunities at the Garda region. But somehow the spirit  grew on us and already on 2002 I was with Heta at Riva del Garda for two weeks and since then we have been at Lake Garda 7 times and in Italy 10 times.

During the years we have been inviting our friends and families to visit here with us. Heta's parents visited us last year at Arco, Jarkko has been here three times and this is Sami's second time. This year we are breaking the record when total of 7 Finns are here. Current newcomers are Sami's wife Nora, my brother Juha and his girlfriend Niina.

Heta leads the rope to the top of the 5b route.

To get our newcomers Juha and Niina familiar with the activities we already organized a quick via ferrata to Monte Colodri. But via ferrata was just a warmup, actual target was to show some climbing on a beatiful rock wall. Our choise was Coltura (read more about Coltura) that offers great views and long routes even for beginners.

During the day we also tested our photo and filming equipment. Few fotos of the session are included.

Niina's first rock climbing experience!

Sami and Nora lowering off from a three pitch 6a+.

 See all photos from our Picasa album:

Coltura, 7.7.2013

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Footsteps of a legend - Coltura

Climbing has grown and evolved during the last century dramatically from traditional alpinism to sport climbing. Coltura is one part of that history which can be seen still in the style of the crag and one other remarkable aspect of the place is that the legendary alpinist Marino Stenico (1916 -1978) used to train his grand climbs here.

Somehow Coltura has still a small breathe of alpinism left, rough and untouched rock wall that it surrounded by green fields and small villages. And Climbing is not all that Coltura has to offer. There is a medieval phantom village Irone - Iron nearby the crag. Iron is a Medieval village that was completely decimated by the plague in 1630 and the layout of the village is still intact.

Majority of the routes are multipitches and difficulty is from medium to high. Nice detail is that the high quality of the rock makes routes accessible also for level 5 climbers.

So far when compared to other crags the feel of the rock has been best in here Cultura.  Here you do not need to worry about polished

Coltura Sector D.

limestone like in many other crags in the region. And the last bonus, this is a total drive-in and climb crag. Parking is convinient just below the main wall. Location is also suitable for families because of pleasant environment, picnic tables and peacefull atmosphere. Only downside being that it takes about 50 minutes from Arco or Riva to get there.

Coltura has total of 93 pitches available but roughly quarter of them are second or third pitches of longer routes. So roughly 70 routes can be climbed straight from the ground. Grades start from 4 and end up to 8b. Majority of the routes are in the range of 6a to 7a making Coltura a perfect for medium to higher grade climbers. Average length of the routes is respectable 25 meters. There ara shorter routes starting from 15 meters and longest pitches more than 30 meters so at least 60 meters rope is recommended.

Mika at Claudia 6a, 30m.

It is definitely a place to visit if you happen to have some additional time or when the meters for the day are completed early. What could I say after all this, just amazing rock, a definite place to visit.

Top of Claudia

Heta leading Il pilastro del brenta, 5c 25m.

Heta leading Beper 5b, 15m.

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