Switch from ice to rock faces at Regina del Lago

After four days of ice climbing and two days of snowboarding it was time to switch the mode from ice to rock. This time of the year is a perfect for longer rock climbing routes to we headed down to Sarca valley and Arco.

After the longer ice climbing routes we decided to start with shorter 110 meter routes at Regina del Lago. Regina's Prima Fascia sector has great 4-6 pitch long routes with quick approach and easy exit. And actually after climbing a longer route you have three good option, head to the sport sectors, continue longer lines at the Regina del Lago C-sector or just walk down and start the next route.

This is the second time at the Prima Fascia sector and today we climbed two 6a lines, Via Settimo Cielo and Via Messalina. Both routes were enjoyable to climb and the belay stations were relaxed with excellent view over the valley below and Lake Garda.

Prima Fascia sector has 20 know routes and we also found some fresh ones too. Majority of the routes are bolted during last 5 to 10 years. But be aware some of them have trad pitches in the middle and few of the routes are complete alpine graded. I was also surprised about the wide range of grades in the routes. Easiest ones start from 5b and most difficult ones go as high as 7b. A great range of difficulties for a one sector.

After the 2nd visit at this sector I'm convinced that this is the best part of the Regina del Lago crag.

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Regina del Lago - multipitch routes, 23.3.2016

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Get up and climb on a fresh rock face

Being an iconic and popular climbing center has its downfall. Climbing on a fresh rock is not the expectation for most of the fellow climbers who visit in Arco. That might be true if you just hang on the crags next to the nearest buss stop. But there is still plenty of fresh and good rock even nearby the city if you just know where from to look at. 

For the summer season opening and the 1st climbing day we chose our last years's favorite Le Piazzole which is not included in the older climbing guidebooks and thus unknown for the masses. It is partially maintained by the Project Outdoor Park Garda Trentino. 

Crag is at 530 meters from the sea level and facing to the south-east  making it perfect for a late afternoon climbing sessions. What makes climbing excellent here is the fact that you completely on your own when climbing. No chalk marks nor polished holds screaming the way up and over the next crux. Bolting and anchors are excellent and the surroundings are well taken care of. Approach is not short when compared to other crags nearby but still reasonable 250 vertical meters and 25 minutes walk from the parking. 

Oh and about the grades, you can pick lines from 5b up to 7b from varying length of 12 to 22 meters.

And how was our climbing, well we got lucky the weather was partially clouded and the temperature was around 26 celcius degrees, perfect for summer climbing and for a season opening. Total of 6 ascents wasn't too bad as a starter.



Crag grade: 5/5
Rock quality: 5/5
Bolting: 5/5
Surroundings: 4/5
Approach: 3/5

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Arco, le Piazzole, 17.6.2014

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Deep water solo climbing at Riva del Garda

Click here if you just want to see the photos

Just a few days a go our first climbing instructor and mountain guide Stefano Angelini / Mountime Group invited us to visit the Millet's Garda Climbing Challenge 2014 event to the Arco Climbing Stadium. An excellent opportunity to see top notch Millet Team International climbers and enjoy a casual evening with local fellows. Millet's two day event included climbing competition, relaxed evening  party and deep water solo climbing day at Riva del Garda for the 2nd day.

After the relaxed evening at the climbing arena we decided to participate for the next day's deep water solo climbing event. The great opportunity came with a price of an early wake-up. Our alarm clocks rang at 6:45 for the misty and cold morning. After sleepy and slow morning we decided to carry on with the initial plan and head towards the climbing arena where the climbing crew gathered. Once all eyes were finally open we headed to Riva where pedal boats were waiting for eager climbers.

Weather wasn't too promising when we arrived to Riva del Garda. But it doesn't matter when you have the right spirit and enthusiast climbers with one goal, get up to the wall as high as possible.

In  just about 15 minutes from Riva del Garda all the climbers had their pedaling boats at the climbing wall that is located just below the old via Ponale road. Once first accents were on their way the unexpected happened, as a surprise the sky became clear and sun started to shine. That was the final thing needed for a perfect deep water solo climbing morning.


The only limiting factor for the schedule was the midday when Péler winds turn to the more stronger Ora wind. Ora is great for windsurfers but too strong for pedal boats heading back to Riva. Still the return wasn't that bad because the perfect morning. On top of that Millet invited all of us for the final gathering lunch and social event back to Arco Climbing Arena.

Great and definitely a different day with the Millet Team International climbers, this time extended by the amateur Finns for the very first time;) The rock was hard and the water was cold!

See all photos:

Riva del Garda, Deep water solo, 25.6.2014

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Spring climbing over Ledro Valley

If you just want to see photos then click here

Twisted winter holiday, we are climbing more than snowboarding. Well you got to do what feels good.  So today we visited Regina del Lago's sector A that is excellent choice for 6a/b climbers. We know the crag already but during the last summer we had only time to visit the B sector. 

Regina offers great views over Val di Ledro and routes are long and excellent for 5-6 climbers. Approach is relatively quick, about 20-30 minutes and the path is mostly clear to follow. Crag is hot during the summer days but excellent for the spring climbing. It should be climbable starting from February so it is definitely a place to visit during winter.

Our last visit was at the B sector and now when comparing the sectors they offer a varied type of climbs. Most of them are positive and some are slabs but A sector has also corner crags offering great variation to other routes. The right side of the A sector seemed to be more interesting when it comes to routes.

During the day we noticed that the air was full of dust that was also blocking randomly GPS, normally Lake Garda would be visible from the top. So if you wonder the photos that is most probably the reason. Great day, great crack. We will be back.

 


See all photos:

Madonna di Campiglio, Regina del Lago, 20.3.2014 March

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The eternal knot tied at Garda Trentino

The Story of friends, climbing, Garda Trentino and loveeee...

I start from the very beginning. Two years ago when Mika and Heta were visiting Arco (again) they wanted to take their bikes with. Sami and Nora borrowed their bike rack (Thule EuroWay G2 921, very handy) and as compensation Sami got his first climbing harness. So, Sami started climbing, because he had harness and Mika needed a friend to belay. Sami really liked climbing and he started to look for another climbing partner when Mika was not available, so he asked Nora to try. Nora fell in love with climbing and they started to climb together a lot.

This tells something about the importance of climbing in their life. Nora played beach volley and volleyball as a semi-pro player, but since she started climbing, she has hardly played a match. Sami raced DH biking, but since he started climbing, he has done that twice in total. ;)

So, they trained climbing and bouldering at indoor places in Helsinki region and Tampere, they traveled to climb in Sicily and Sweden, they climbed at crags all around Finland and they were really happy together. They coached each other, they encouraged each other, they helped each other, they belayed each other, they spoke about climbing, they watched climbing movies and the most important they spent their best time together while climbing.

It was January 2013 when they planned to travel to Garda Trentino at Summer. At the same time Nora got an idea to get finally married after eight years together. They both love Italy and climbing and especially they love each other so what would be a better place to tie an eternal knot between them.

Nora's wedding ring, the eternal knot

The final test for the marriage was set to be passed at Sarca walls. The test was to do multipitch climbing together as a pair. ;) It was three days before the wedding when they approached Amazzonia route (5/5 stars, Sarca Walls– Guidebook) at the crag of Piccolo Dain at Parete Del Limaró. The route is 11 rope lengths and 250 meters, the hardest grade is 5C.  As they have enjoyed time together while climbing also the multipitch ascent went perfectly, even if it was raining when Nora leaded her longest and hardest pitch (5b), the ropes were wet and heavy and they didn't have time for breaks to get down before sunset. It took 6 hours and they were totally exhausted after the tour, but they worked as a solid team from start to end. So there were no doubts for the successful marriage! :D

Check the full story from here.

On the top of the world, or at least on the top of Amazzonia!

The end of story, but the beginning of lovely start for another one...

Thanks to the Italian friends for all the pre-work since the ceremony went perfect. Riva del Garda is very international city, so they gave very precise information what they need for a civil wedding ceremony. But it is good to communicate in Italian with the people working at city, if possible. Nora's lovely Italian volleyball teammate Alice helped a lot with the booking, documents and jewelry. Also Valentina and Daniele from Garda Trentino Tourist Office did great job by witnessing and translating the ceremony. The ceremony was at Comune di Riva del Garda (City Hall) by the Lake Garda.

After the ceremony by Lake Garda

This beautiful and lovely happening was really worth to immortalize. Mika made invaluable work to sweat and run with the married couple around the city of Arco and the Calvario crag. The day was hot even it was not so sunny. The feelings, the happiness, the love and the action were captured to these awesome photos.

Yoga and dynos are keys for good climber and excellent relationship. (c) Mika Huhtamäki

"See, there are some mountains!" (c) Mika Huhtamäki

"Catch me if you can!" (c) Mika Huhtamäki

Heading into the future together  (c) Mika Huhtamäki

Some extra without make-up and dress :)

Balancing at Via Ferrata Rio Salagoni (c) Mika Huhtamäki

The news of the wedding

Basso Sarca e Ledro News

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Relaxing activity at Rio Salogoni and Lago di Tenno

If you just want to see the photos then click here.  

What an exhausted group of climbers can do after a long multipitch to recover? They can spend a

Juha and Nina in the lost valley.

relaxing half a day at via ferrata and then go swimming to the nearby lakes.

I have to admint that one of my favorite via ferrata is Rio Salogoni in Drena. We visited there the very first time during our last years trip to Lake Garda, so it was a familiar route for most of us (read more about Rio Salogoni from here). As a route Rio Salogoni is not the most demanding or technically difficult but it has a certain spirit of a lost world that I haven't experienced in other places.

I was proud to show this place to our new members Juha, Niina and Nora. All of them had the opportunity to experience the lost world in a peacuful mood without other groups rushing in to it. And that shows on the images.

Rio Salogoni is definitely a worthy half day adventure to take and for our non climber quests Juha and Nina the day was definitely exciting and challenging even. After my second visit here Im even more convinced of the Rio Salogoni's magic. A defnite place to visit, recommended!

Sami & Noro shows how to walk on a wire bridge.

After the half day adventure there was only one thing to do, to swimming in the nearby lakes. Our choice for the day was Lago di Tenno that is well know from its turquoise and lagoon like environment (read more about Tenno). This year the water level was extraordinary high because of the rains and floods. Anyway the swimming was refreshing after the day at via ferrata and a good ending for our rock adventures.

Reflections on the Lago di Tenno. Notice the trees growning from the lake because of high water level.

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Drena, Rio Salogoni, 9.7.2013

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Excellent multipitches at Piccolo Dain in Sarche

Jarkko "on the edge" (180 meters at Parete della Centrale).

If you just want to see the photos then click here.  

Read also releated story: Amazzonia - 5 stars multipitch at Parete Limaro

Are you looking for a great climbing experience on a good rock, with easy access, good bolting and beautiful views? If all that sounds good then Piccolo Dain in Sarche is definitely the mountain to conquer.

So far our trip has been a great adventure around the sourrounded valleys and mountains. But because time runs fast we had to choose the last multipitch adventure for the holiday. The choice was Piccolo Dain's Parete della Centrale wall.

Piccolo Dain is about 17 kilometers from Arco in the city of Sarche. It offers several different walls and a great number of both, traditional and bolted multipitch routes. Routes are relatively long, around 250 meters and the longest routes are up to 450 meters.

Parete della Centrale wall is easy to recognize. It faces to west and can be seen easily on the right side of  the road from Sarche towards Madonna di Campiglio. All routes can be accessed just before the river Sarca from the dirt road on the right side. The road starts just before the river and it travels under the wall towards the power station. Routes starts from the road just before the gates of the Enel power station.

Parete della Centrale wall has several great 250 meters long routes and our picks for the day were  Orizzonti Dolomitic and Amazzonia. Both are 250 meters and 11 pitches long and grades are 5b and 5c. For the two routes we splitted into teams. Mika, Heta and Jarkko formed the first team and Nora and Sami formed the second team.

When we started at 14:30 the weather a bit too hot for efficient climbing. The first hour and a half the temperature was around 32 celcius degrees and it made climbing consuming. But then, after two hours and 100 meters, the unexpected happened. Just in five minutes the whole sky was full of dark storm clouds and rainy thunderstorm started to beat us. As usual, it was my turn to lead. After a brief group thinking we decided to continue at least one pitch further to see if the weather is getting any better. Storm was over in 40 minutes and the sky started clear just when my lead was over, typical.

Leading in the rain.

Mika's lead, up we go (230 meters left).

For our luck the rain cleaned the air and climbing after the storm was enjoyable because of the fresh air and lower temperature. Once we reached the top our total climbing time was 5 hours and the descent from the top to the nearest gelateria took additional 50 minutes.

Very enjoyable experience, definitely a must wall to visit! I'm just wondering that how I could stay here for a longer time, Garda region is such a great place to be. I'm ready to listen good ideas how group of Finns could afford staying here more permanently while adventuring around the region ;)

Heta didn't knew about the upcoming storm yet.

After the storm it was time to eat.

Belaying somewhere there.

Jarkko posing on 230 meters.

Team.

 

It took about 50 minutes from the top to the nearest gelateria.

 




Read also releated story: Amazzonia - 5 stars multipitch at Parete Limaro



 See all photos from our Picasa album:

Piccolo Dain, 8.7. 2013

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