Multipitch at Parete Zebrata

Mika's lead at the Parete Zebrata, Zo Le Man.

If you just want to see the photos then click here.

Parete Zebrata has a long history in alpine climbing. Wall is pretty easy to recognize on the left (west) side of the road (S45bis) from Arco to Pietramurata. From a distance it looks like a massive slab but it offers a varying set of routes.


The wall was explored by Heinz Steinkotter in 1969 who created the first route 46¤ parallelo. From those days the wall has evolved and nowadays it includes three different sectors with routes from 70 meters up to 500 meters. Bolting has changed the nature of the wall from traditional alpine climbing wall to a bolted multipitch sport wall. Still the routes are alpine style and the bolting varies between routes. Most recent routes have been bolted 2012.

Our choise for the second multipitch day was a newly built 120 meters route Zo Le Man, 5b. Route has good bolting but not necessary in the terms of sport climbing. Route was a good choise for a quick and enjoyable climb. The approach, climb and decent took only 3 hours and 45 minutes from parking to top and back to parking. So it was a quick drive-in and climb experience.

Approaching.

Wall is completely surrounded by loose rocks, so wearing a helmet is a necceccity and its also a good idea to go before other groups or clearly late after majority of the climbers are already gone.

We chose to climb in the evening at 5 pm when the wall was completely in the shadow. That was a good choice because at that time other climbers had left the wall already and we didn't need to worry too much about falling rocks. Early evening option works nicely when the day is long enough, but it might be harder to do during late summer days or on early spring.


Parete Zebrata offers a quick access multipitch. It was a good next step after the Corno di Bo' training day and offered a great opportunity to enjoy the surrounding views.  Again I can recommend Zebrata's 80 to 120 meters routes if you are seeking for a nice warmup multipitch. But remember that longer routes take more time and dedication.

After this the next multipitch will be 250 meters of pure rock in Sarche at Piccolo Dain, routes Amazonia and Orizzonti Dolomitici.

Jarkko at the 1st pitch.

View from the top.

Mika and ropes on the top.

Heta climbing behind the leader.

See all photos from our Picasa album:

Parete Zebrata, 4.7.2013

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Croz de le Niere - quick and comfy!

Route from Arco to Croz de la Niere.

The weather forecasts looked bad and we weren't sure if it is a good idea to go out at all . After a small
research of the nearby valleys we came to conclusion that we would like to visit a crag that has an easy and quick access in the case of a storm. Croz de le Niere was an obvious choise.

If you have been seeking for a nice place for a picnic with the possibility to climb immediately when you feel so then this is a plave for you. Croz de le Niere at the end of the Giudicarie valley is just perfect for families or anyone who can't take long approaches or climbers who prefer confortable environment. The only downside is that it takes about 40 to 50 minutes by car from Riva or Arco, but that is all it takes, no additional trekking or traveling in the woods. Parking is convinient, just under the main wall. There is also few tables and one picnic table is under a roof so even the rain won't spoil the perfect day.

Heta leading La Volpe, 4c, 26 meters warmup.

But the climbing part, is this worthwhile crag to visit? Crag has more than 70 routes to offer, grades from 3 to 8a. Majority of the routes are in the range of 5c to 7a and the average length of routes is about 20 metetrs. Small difference to majority of the sport climbing crags is that Croz de le Niere has several two pitch routes, actually some of the routes can be climbed only from the second pitch.


We climbed several routes from 4c to 6a and in all the routes bolting and anchors were great, only on few routes the distance between bolts may cause additional heartbeats while completing the crux move. Still no major reasons to complain.

I'm happy to say that Croz de le Niere is worthwhile crag to visit and especially at unpredictable weather conditions it might be a good idea to go there, since it is quick and easy to get there and back. Crag is definitely good place to visit for families, actually one of the best crags to visit. Great location, easy approach and and wide selection of routes and grades, there is something for everyone from kids to grannies. Recommended!

Il Pigro, 5b, Heta.

Pilastro Moana, 6a, Mika.

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From Helsinki to Arco

Longest bridge in the Europe. Photo taken behind a dirty car window.

Traveling by car takes time but gives also great opportunities to visit in places where you wouldn't go otherwise.

Our trip by car took three days from Helsinki to Arco. Our car started from Helsinki on Tuesday 11.6. at 17:00 and we arrived finally to Arco on Friday 14.6. after traveling total of 70 hours. Traveling by car takes time and patience but on the other hand each day on the road is a small trip to a new country.

Some people have been asking why we drive through Sweden instead of taking a ferry from Helsinki to Rostock. Well, the answer is simple. First of all the traveling time is pretty much the same and the cost for ferry from Finland to Germany, one way with two dogs, is 1100 Euros. And actually when traveling by car you can always pick your personal favorites for eating and sleeping.

We spent the first night in the ferry from Turku to Stockholm. Our plan was to take a boat that arrives early
 to Stockholm to avoid heavy traffic. Actual driving started from Stockholm at 6 am and during the day we drove through Sweden to Malmö. From there we took the longest bridge on Europe to get to Denmark (read more about the longest bridge in Europe).

Denmark was a quick visit that lasted about 240 kilometers and just few hours after Malmö. Then was time to get on a ferry again.

Thatch.

There is at least two alternative ferries from Denmark to Germany. One line goes from Gedser to Rostock and the other one from Rodbyhavn to Puttgarden. Our choise was to take a ferry to Puttgarden and drive to our first hotel to Oldenburg in Holstein.

Our first hotel was excellent, especially their breakfast was just awesome. The hoteal was like a farm house in the middle of the crop fields in a small village. And as usual in the small German hotels the service / cost ratio was great. Second traveling day was all about Germany, from north to south. At the end of the second day we arrived to a small city called Langenbruck in the free state of Bavaria.

Last traveling day was easy, just four and half hours from Langenbruck to Arco via Austria. Austria is always the most impressive part of the trip. Motor highway in between the high peaks is a great view to enjoy for couple of hours that it takes. This was actually easy, maybe next time we just book one hotel from middle of the Germany and drive the whole trip in two parts.

Bavariand fields.

View Larger Map

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Back to Italy 14.6. - 14.7.2013

We are finally heading back to our favorite summer camp, Lake Garda! Right now I can tell you that we are seriously busy while preparing all little details for the upcoming trip.

Traveling takes three days from Finland to Italy by car. Our trip goes via Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Austria to Italy. What scares us are the floods in southern Germany and Austria. It has been a mess out there and we shall see if all the main roads are accessible or not.

Our team is split into two waves this year. I'll be coming to Garda with Heta in the first wave and our reinforcements will be coming 28th and 29th of July ,just after the Finnish midsummer. So this year there will be total of 5 Rock Blockers adventuring at the Garda region.

To get into the right mood I decided to do some eye candy for our dear followers. Switch to full screen, turn on audio and see our summer teaser 2013. And remember to have fun!

See you at Lake Garda!

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Rock Blocks Video Blog 2012 - Climbing

Its time to prepare for the upcoming summer season and for that reason Rock Block videos are here to watch. Videos includes climbing shots from our last year's adventures at Lake Garda. Each published videos has a link to the actual article to read details of the day.

We'll be back...

2.8.2012 Sport climbing at Beldevere

4.8.2012 Multipitch day at Corno di Bo'

7.8.2012 Denied multipitch and evening at the Muro dell'asino

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Rock Blocks Video Blog 2012 - Freeride and MTB

Following videos includes montainbiking and freeride shots from our last year's adventures at Lake Garda. Each published videos has a link to the actual article to read details of the day.

We'll be back...


3.8.2012 Secret spot and a hidden trail - Punta dei Larici

6.8.2012 Anaconda freeride run

8.8.2012 King Tremalzo

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Rock adventurers in the news

Ingarda Trentino published an article and a newsletter about our rock adventures at Lake Garda.

Read article in Italy >>
Read the newsletter >> 


English translation by Daniele Tonelli / Ingarda Trentino

Take four Finnish friends (Sami, Jarkko, Mika and Heta) who loveoutdoor activities (especially climbing), smartphone owners and onholiday in Garda Trentino. The result is a very interesting anddetailed diary of their experiences, published on different platforms(iCloud, Blogger, Flickr) and also mentioned on Twitter...and through atweet Ingarda Trentino S.p.A. got in touch with them and has been ableto discover the suggestive report of their "rock trip" (30th July -12th August) and some beautiful photos!

During their stay in Garda Trentino the four friends have tried many different excursions, like Vie Ferrate Colodri, Rio Salagoni, FalesieCorno di Bò, Belvedere and Policromuro, but also a cycling tour inBocca Larici.

This is a good promotion for our land that verify the growing trend of"social media involved tourists" that are used to share real-timephotos, experiences and many other things on social media, promotingour destination in a new viral and 2.0 way.
Ingarda Trentino S.p.A has defined a short meeting in its office inorder to thank Sami, Jarkko, Mika and Heta for their passion and togive them some special "IngardaKits" with brochures and gadgets.

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Great views over Garda at Fausto Susatti Ferrata

View down to Riva and Arco from Cima Capi.

Trail starts from via Ponale.

As a last adventure for this summer we decided to summit Cima Capi (907 meters) by climbing F. Susatti Ferrata. Our day started slightly late and because of that the temperature was already around 34 celcius degrees, which is hot for a long ascent.

Actual route starts from Riva and goes along via Ponale. The first half an hour goes exactly at the same road that we pedaled to the secret spot to Punta dei Larici. While walking the old road it is easy to spot fortresses, tunnels and barrack on the sides. Old Ponale road has a long history. It been built already 1860 to protect the lake, Garda, the road and the Sperone aqueduct supplying Riva.

Sign at the Ponale road pointing
towards Cima Capi.

After the 30 minutes walk at the old war road we arrived to the point where the path number 405 heads towads via ferrata and Cima Capi. From this point forward the road gets more steep and is covered with loose rock. It takes a bit over an hour to get to the starting point of the ferrata from the crossroads.

Soon after the start the path heads towards a steep and open mountain meadows that were extremely hot during our ascent and only few parts ware nicely in the shadow. For us the ascent was one of the hottest that we have completed during the years that we have spent at Lake Garda. Having enough water and some snack was essential. Personally I reserved four liters of water for the day.

Steep ascent.

Exhausted traveller.

Views towards the lake and nearby peaks are magnificent and were getting even better after every step. The price for views is the demanding approach walk up to the starting point of the ferrata. Once we arrived to the ferrata luckily the wind was starting to cool the air and we didn't felt tired anymore.

The ferrata itself is easy and suitable for all who can walk to the starting point. It is not exposed so climbing should be easy for anyone. Ferrata is also split into several parts and it continues even for the descent path towards Bastione.

From the peak the ascent path is obvious to follow. But the ferrata, ascent and the route is not yet over. Soon after the peak descent is partially exposed at the ridge. Then after that ascent has several ferrata parts traversing on the edge of the mountain. Trail back to Riva follows first the path number 405 and then the path number 404 which goest via Bastione at the end. For us the ascent took about 2 and half hours so it was a good idea to have some additional water for the ascent. Our total time for the ascent, ferrata and descent was about 5 and half hours (including the time we spent for photographing).

At ferrata.

Summit.

Yet again we got a great adventure but sadly it was our last for this year. I'm still happy that I had the opportunity to do most of the planned activities. For this year we had to skip the more demanding via ferrata Ottorino Marangoni at Monte Albano that seemed to be closed for some reason. We also had to skip few of our planned alpine multipitch routes and we missed the local freerider's weekly ride at the Skull route. But three weeks is only three weeks. I gues that we have to come back again next year. We'll see.

Heading down.

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Windy views and refreshing evening at Cavédine

Route from Nago to Cavédine.

After opera at Verona we decided to have a short climbing day and then afterwads enjoy a refreshing evening at Lago di Cavediné. So far during the holiday we have been visiting on new crags but today our choice was to go back to Beldevere and see the more demanding B sector.

Sector B has longer routes and  some of them are overhanging. Best part is that the sector is located clearly on a higher altitude than the A sector. Higher altitude and the average route height of 16 meters means that climbing feels more exposed. At this sector climber has a great views to watch during the whole ascent and the winds of the lake adds a cool and refreshing factor for the whole way up to the top.

Most important lesson of the day was that even the latest and the greatest topo books might have mistakes on route maps. At Beldevere it seemed that most of the routes listed on the latest "Arco Rock" guidebook from 2010 edition were wrong. Luckily there is an informative topo map at the crag. Somehow the grades and the routes were so badly mixed at the book that the local topo table was only clear way to see the routes. I included the actual topo and grades of the of the sector B to the article.

Actual routes.

We had time to try only few routes where grades were from 5c to 6a+. I usually climb 5c on-sight but at Beldevere's sector B I couldn't. It was more likely 6a/6a+ at the top. I also spoke with couple of Italian climbers and they pretty agreed that route is definitely more demanding than 5c. So be prepared for trickier parts even on a warmup route.

Top view from Beldevere B sector towards Torbole.

After short but intense climbing day we decided to avoid a holiday rush towards Torbole and instead of that we headed to the Lago di Cavediné. It is a smaller lake than Garda but big enough for a windsurfing school that is located nearby the beach. It is about 15 kilometers from Nago next to a narrow asphalt road heading towards north. It is definitely a worthwhile to visit especially when own activities are nearby the lake. Water is clear but felt colder than at lake Garda. Visiting after a hot summer day is preferred.

Sadly our holiday is about to end and we have only one more adventure left. Then after that it is all about packing up the gear and head back to Finland. Heading back means a car drive of "only" 2500 kilometers...

Behind the back view towards Nago and Torbole.

Lago di Cavédine

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Market morning and Calvario's classic walls

Bells and whistles at the market.

Arco had a market day so we decided to spent some time there and see if we can find good quality cheese or honey. Market sellers had a lot to offer but today we couldn't find what were seeking for. We decided to leave the markets and start to prepare for an afternoon redpointing session.

Classic wall.

Already earlier on this week we had a grade upgrade climbing session at Massi di Prabi which was a great place to practice for more demanding routes. Next goal was to find a good crag for redpointing routes. For redpointing purposes we chose the classic Calvario which has been the stage for the Italian trials for the very first Rock Master '87. After that the crag has been abandoned for years but in 2009 it has been cleaned and rebolted. All the routes are vertical and technical, in other words it is a perfect place to exceed our current grades. And on top of all that Calvario is located on our back yard just about a 1 kilometer away towards Laghel.

We arrived to the crag during afternoon around 2 o'clock and it was complete empty. That was a surprise because the crag is facing to the east meaning that during the afternoon it is nicely in shadow. And on top of that the rock's face wasn't badly polished.

Calvario is demanding for regular climber it has only one 4b and one 5b for warmups, rest of the routes are from 6a to 8a. Hetas target for the day was the route 2. - Mam 5b and mine the route 5. - Vibrafono 6a.

Preparing for the crux.

As a warmup Heta climbed Popi 4b and I prepared for the 5b. For some reason the 5b had trickier move at the top than I expected and I failed to climb it right at first try. As a result I slipped the very first time in here from a 5 graded route down to the rope. Four meters of unexpected excitement on a warmup route has to be a new record. My second attempt was easier and the "warmup" was topped.

Warmup route then became Heta's redpointing excercise. Initial ascent wasn't too promising but after two or three succesfull attempts Heta decided that she wants to lead climb it. She climbed it with reasonable amount of motivating fear at the crux move that I slipped on my first attempt.

After Heta's success I moved the top rope to my technical training route 6b. Route started with small finger pockets that were pointing downwards. After several attemps I had to agree that my fingers cannot handle that route yet. Next one was the actual target 6a. I managed to ascent with a top rope it and on the second attempt I also found reasonable spots for setting quickdraws. But time ran out and the route is waiting for the actual ascent. Again Heta was the hero of the day by achieving her 5b target! Calvario is a true classic!

See more photos from Flickr >>

Happy climber after a successful ascent!

Nice view from Calvario towards Arco.

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Relaxing at Lago di Tenno

Small turquoise lake Tenno.

Everyone here knows Lago di Garda's fresh and clean water. Beaches of the lake are popular among sunbathers and adventurers who are relaxing after a hard day at the mountains. I like the fresh water of lake Garda but I also know that there is even more special place for washing the mountain's grey dust out of the skin, it is called Lago di Tenno.

We had an easy day. Heta wasn't able to participate on our initial via ferrata dei Colodri excursion so we decided to do that again in the morning and then head to Lago di Tenno to relax at the turquoise alpine lake. Lake Tenno is is located at 550 meters on a green mountain valley that is like a small and hidden paradise.Water of the lake is few degrees warmer than at Lake Garda and the color of the water is beautifully reflected from the nearby alpined forests. Atmosphere at the beaches is also more relaxed than at the popular beaches of lake Garda.

Tenno offered a needed break for tired rock adventurers and yet another way to enjoy the region's nature.

See more photos from Flickr >>

Lake Tenno's beaches.

Heta enjoying the refreshing water of lake Tenno.

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Grade upgrade at Massi di Prabi

Climbing playground.

So far we have been climbing on routes that are on our regular skill range. Goal for the day was to find a good crag to train towards higher grades. For that we needed a location that is suitable for quick ascents and easy route switching. Our choice was to head towards climbing playground at Massi di Prabi. Massi di Prabi is nearby the swimming pool and Arco's camping area. Area consists of several bouldering and climbing rocks that are spread on an area just below the large Colodri rock face. Area has two main boulders A and B and both of them have 10 or more routes from 4 to 7. There are also several others bolted boulders such as boulder number 2 that is suitable for basic climbing training or lead training. Still majority of the boulders are not bolted and are suitable for actual bouldering.

Heta topping warmup 5c.

Massi di Prabi was also obvious choise us because we climbed here the very first rock acsent just a year ago. After a year my grade has upgraded from 4a to 5c and at the same I have learned to lead, trad and multipitch climbing. Now the next step is to work towards better grades. My personal goal is to get a solid 6a skills and Heta's target is 5b.

For the grade upgrade training session we headed for the boulder B that is roughly 10 meters high and has several bolted 6a and 6b routes with good warmup 5a and 5c routes and a 7c route. Top anchors are also accessible by climbing to the top of the boulder from the backside. A perfect place to work towards higher grades.

Heta's crux at the "E pur si muove" - 6a
- a good test of balance.

All routes, even 5a, have mostly small holds or small finger holes and few finger crimps combined with  friction moves or on same cases small lists or a flake. Face was mostly straight up or slightly positive on the 5a and 5c. First we started with a quick warmup with the 5 routes and then we continued with top ropes on the 6x lines.

Heta was definitely the hero of the day. Her leading grade is somewhere between 4c and 5a but today after lot of practicing she was able to climb one 6a. I worked on several 6a and 6a+ lines. At the end of the day both of use were tired but agreed that a we will do a similiat excercise in the near future. Location for the next training session is still open.

Massi di Prabi's boulders have definitely a role here in between the big walls. Recommended for training purposes even thou there are way better places for enjoyable climbing. Just a one more coppa of gelato and my day is perfect.

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Tall walls of Nago

Nago's parking next to a ranch house.

After Massone day we wanted to see one of the biggest crag at the Garda region. Obvious choise for the day's excursion was Nago. This was also the last climbing day for Jarkko and Sami so we wanted to have something spectacular or at least high to climb.

The official Arco topo book states thart the crag might be overcrowded but our experince wasn't that bad. Of course there was other people climbing but most of the time there was a free route to pick.

Nago is huge in all countable ways; the number of routes, grades and heights. Crag has six sectors and total of 139 routes. Heights of the routes varies from 10 meters up to the 40 meters and grades start from 4b and end up to 8c. Average height of the routes is around 22 meters and average grade around 6b.

Jarkko leading "Take it easy"
- 5c, 25m.

During the day we climbed only few routes but the gained meters we good. We completed several 25 meters 5c routes and Sami did one 25 meters 6a route that was facing to the sun all the way from the bottom to the top.

Surprisingly the longer (25 meters) easy routes (5b-5c) weren't badly polished. Worst line was one of the 4c line that was more likely 5c because of the polished rock on the steep sections. Based on our experiences it looked like that routes greater than 5 or longer than 20 meters are in a decent shape.

Heta topping.

As a conclusion we agreed that Nago is definitely worthwhile to visit but be aware that some of the routes migh be badly polished and temperature during the hot afternoons might be an issue. During the summer months most of the tall walls are hot to climb but before 11 o'clock walls are mostly in shadow. It is a good idea to visit the crag early in the morning if you want to climb tall and difficult routes during the summer.

We got what we expected, tall walls. And once more thanks to Sami and Jarkko for nice time here at Lake Garda. I'll continue with Heta here to to seek new rock adventures. Ciao!

See photos of the day from Flickr >>

Top view.

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