Val Pennavaire and Colosseo

Val Pennaire is a large valley starting from Albenga and offering over 40 crags and more than 1000 Val Pennavaire could be easily a target even for a longer climbing holiday just because of the huge amount of good quality routes to be climbed. A good amount of the routes have been bolted after 2000 or even later than 2010 thou the first rock climbers discovered the valley already in the 90's. If the sole number of fresh routes is not a justification for a visit then the varied styles of climbing from tufas to overhangs and slabs are. 

Our pick of the day from Val Pennavaire was the crag Colosseo that has respectable 35 routes from 4a to 7c+, majority of the routes being on the range of 6a-7b. Bolting here is good as usual and the routes are relatively new, bolted between 2005 and 2006. On some overhangs a bit of polished rock exists but nothing that would affect to the climbing experience. Most propably the best parts of the wall are the on the overhanging part of the wall. Mostly those are 7+ routes but there is still some good overhangs for 6 grade climbers as well.

Again a great crack to visit. So far we have been picking cracks that are bolted 2005 or later and with that in mind the rock quality and bolting has been good or even great. I'm a little bit amazed how many good routes on a good rock there are. And all that in a relatively small region.

Read More

0

Valle del Vero and crowded Santa Lucia

Valle del Vero is in an exceptional setting between steep mountains, next to the Grotte di Toirano, the caves of Toirano and the Church of Santa Lucia. Walking further via path "Sentiero delle Telle Alte" shows also the hidden beauty of the nature in the valley. This is place is not just about climbing, it is about experiencing the surrounding nature as well.

For climbing the Church of Santa Lucia gives name to the sunny and most popular climbing sector. Reasons for the popularity are obvious, sector has a quick access and you can reach the bottom of the routes withing ten minutes from the parking. Routes are also well bolted and grade range is from easy to medium and mostly technical slabs and vertical walls in total of 22 routes.

Over the day we felt that in the noon and early afternoon the crag was too crowded at first. Rock quality was average and ok in general most probably because routes were bolted beteen 2006 - 2010. Best routes we climbed were Idefix and Obelix because of the combination of the slab and overhand in a single routes. Also Lella is worthwhile to do. Not the best of the Oltrefinale but ok for a one time visit.

Read More

0

Initial touch to the Oltrefinale - Telematica

Oltrefinale is relatively recently bolted region and new climbing location for us. Well almost, we have been twice in Finale Ligure which is only 15-20 kilometers apart from Oltrefinale. Still the difference in these too locations is amazing. The amount of relatively new routes in a small region is amazing.

Oltrefinale consists six main valleys: Val Nimbalto, Val Varatella, Val Pennavaire, Val Tanaro, Valle Argentina and Val Nervia. Our basecamp is located at Albenga so that we can easily access the Val Pannaire, Val Varatella and Val Nimbalto. Finale Ligure routes are also accessible in a reasonable time because the drive from the Albenga to Finale Ligure takes less than 30 minutes.

We started our expedition by visiting Val Pennaire that offers over 40 crags and more than 1000 routes. Valley offers a great amount of routes for different climbing styles from tufas to overhangs and slabs. 

Our expedition to Oltrefinale started from the good warmup crag Telematica, bolted 2004. Crag has total of 25 routes mostly on red and grey limestone and varying heights from 15 to 25 meters. Grade range is relatively easy from 4c to 6b+. Grading felt a bit stiff on few routes but overall level of difficulty matched well on expectations.

Telematica was a good starting point for our journey to Oltrefinale. Ok rock quality and nice vertical walls.

Read More

0

Via Trento and Via del 46 Parallelo - Parete Zebrata

During the last years Parete Zebrata has been our favorite hang around wall for quick and shady afternoon climbs. One obvious reason is the shade and reasonable afternoon and evening temperature even during the hot season. Wall is climbable even during the hottest days after around 4pm so the only limiting factor is the length of the day.

Rita
On the other hand Parete Zebrata is a good wall for longer 400+ long routes during the spring and fall. Still easier long routes are not necessarily always well protected, for example old and popular route Rita has several pitches where bolt spacing is around 15-20 meters. Usually distant bolts are not in a difficult spot but sometimes additional protective gear may help while climbing. Interesting route that has a long chimney at the last third. Just the history and length of the route justifies an ascent.

Via Trento
A good afternoon or evening route to be climbed during the hot season. Some friction climbing and few harder sections than the grade 5b. Good belay stations and safe descent makes it a nice option for a relaxed evening picnic over the Sarca valley.

Via del 46 Parallelo
Oldest route on the Parete Zebrata, easy with good belays stations. It can be a good training ground for a multipitch climbing as a 180 meters long. Somewhat long bolt distances may still scare some of the beginners off. We still managed to use it as a training climb for my brother and his girlfriend so at least in our case it was a good choice for that. Grade is 4a and mostly it is that, maybe few harder spots but no friction climbing.


Over the years we have climbed at least the following routes from Parete Zebrata:

• Opera Prima, 5b, 3 pitches, 100 meters
• Via Delle Mimose, 5b, 3 pitces, 120 meters
• Donne, 5b, 3 pitches, 120 meters
• Zo Le Man, 5b, 3 pitches, 120 meters
• Gino Gianna, 5b, 4 pitches, 150 meters
• Giusy, 5b / A0, 3 pitches, 150 meters
• Via Trento, 5b, 5 pitches, 180 meters
• Via del 46 Parallelo, 4a, 6 pitches, 180 meters
• Spinelo, 6a, 7 pitches, 220 meters
• Rita, 5c, 15 pitches, 400 meters

Read More

0

Regina del Lago and long routes, 17.6.2016

Rock climbing is more than just a physical and mental test of your skills. On a right location it offers a great way to see the surrounding nature from a different point of a view. One of such places in Lago di Garda is Regina del Lago.

Regina del Lago is popular sport climbing crack that has also a nice sector of longer routes. We have
been visiting here occasionally and for us it is a great place to get started before longer and more demanding routes. Still when it comes to the challenge you an find routes up to 7b and 150 meters long so it has plenty to climb at the Prima Fascia and Seconda Fascia sectors.

Today's climb was one of the shortest routes, only 80 meters and 3 pitches with a grade of 5c/6a. Route was enjoyable with a reasonable boltin and great views. Scariest part was when snake was next to our belay station between 2nd and 3rd pitches. Most propably it was mildly or non poisonous Zamensis longissimus longissimus - Aesculapian snake.

So far we have climbed the following routes from the Sector Prima and Sector Seconda Facia:

• Via Caino e Abele, 6a+
• Via Plaisir, 6a
• Via Babilonia, 6a
• Via Sole Minore, 6a
• Via Sesto Senso, 6a+
• Via Settimo Cielo , 5c/6a
• Via Messalina, 6a

The views over the surrounding mountains, valleys and over the Lake Garda makes this wall unforgettable. 

Read more about Regina del Lago from our earlier posts:

2015 March: Switch from ice to rock faces at Regina del Lago

2014 March: Spring climbing over Ledro Valley

2013 June: Regina del Lago, great views over Valle di Ledro

Read More

0

Climbing for everyone at Falecia Family San Martino

We got a nice challenge this year. Our godson and his two brothers are going to visit us in the Arco. And of course they want to learn some climbing. Yahoo, but wait, they are 3, 5 and 8 years old, what we can find for them?

Easy enough access for our small mountaineer frenchie Helli.

Climbing is demanding sport and thus most of the crags have been created with the idea of stretching
your limits. That is good for the active climbers but starting of the sport becomes very hard due the fact that majority of the crags are not suitable for absolute beginners.

To solve the this issue local cities at Lake Garda have been doing excellent job by creating new easy to access and casual climbing crags for kids, beginners and families. One of such crags is Falecia Family San Martino just next to the center of Arco and famous crag Massone.

Crag passed all the test. Easy access, easy routes and good spots for a picnic. White checking the crag we also climbed all the 8 routes from Junior sector graded from 4c to 6b (9-15 meters tall) and checked the kids sector that has routes from 3-4 which are 15-20 meters tall.

This is the place where we are going to visit with our godson's family. A true 5 star experience on its class! Great work from the GardaTrentino outdoor park project, thanks!

Really nice views over Arco and Lake Garda while climbing.

Official topo. Just a notice that grades of the junior wall at routes 5 and 6 are opposite. So 5-Voldemort is actually 6b and 6-Albus Silente is actually 5c. 

Kids wall, 9 routes 4-4b grades and 18-22 meters.

Junior wall, 4-6b and 9-15 meters.

Crag is only 20 minutes by feet from the center of Arco.

Read More

0

Switch from ice to rock faces at Regina del Lago

After four days of ice climbing and two days of snowboarding it was time to switch the mode from ice to rock. This time of the year is a perfect for longer rock climbing routes to we headed down to Sarca valley and Arco.

After the longer ice climbing routes we decided to start with shorter 110 meter routes at Regina del Lago. Regina's Prima Fascia sector has great 4-6 pitch long routes with quick approach and easy exit. And actually after climbing a longer route you have three good option, head to the sport sectors, continue longer lines at the Regina del Lago C-sector or just walk down and start the next route.

This is the second time at the Prima Fascia sector and today we climbed two 6a lines, Via Settimo Cielo and Via Messalina. Both routes were enjoyable to climb and the belay stations were relaxed with excellent view over the valley below and Lake Garda.

Prima Fascia sector has 20 know routes and we also found some fresh ones too. Majority of the routes are bolted during last 5 to 10 years. But be aware some of them have trad pitches in the middle and few of the routes are complete alpine graded. I was also surprised about the wide range of grades in the routes. Easiest ones start from 5b and most difficult ones go as high as 7b. A great range of difficulties for a one sector.

After the 2nd visit at this sector I'm convinced that this is the best part of the Regina del Lago crag.

See all photos:

Regina del Lago - multipitch routes, 23.3.2016

Read More

0

Little big Serrada

South face for a hot day rock climbing doesn't sound too attractive but Serrada's crag nearby Rovereto is a worthwhile to visit even during the hot season. At least partially shady crag at the woods on 1250 meters sounds promising.

Serrada is not the closest crag from Arco. Car drive to there takes about an hour but then the access from the parking is only 10 minutes. To the first routes the total approach time is still reasonable.


Serrada has almost 80 routes which makes it huge in number of routes. At the same time routes are packed closely in a pleasant environment makes it enjoyable environment. So it is a perfect setup for families or climbers who don't want to take too long walks before getting to the wall.

Routes have a varying length from 10 meters up to 30 meters so there is good set of different alternatives to choose from. Difficulty of the routes starts from 4 and ends up to 7b but best offering is between 6a to 6c. Stil there is enough for beginners and few 7 graded routes for better climbers.

Rock quality varied from slightly polished to little less polished and well climbable. If you are looking for untouched limestone then Serrada is not your crag. But most of the routes are in good enough condition for climbing. And as usual the style of the climbing route dictates how much that bothers. I would say that I enjoyed most of the time and pre-clipped only one route because of polished holds at the start.

Nice place, not a gem but plenty of different routes with an easy access and a pleasant environment. Worthwhile to check out if all the fresh rock walls are already climbed and you are not afraid of long legged spiders ;)

Crag grade: 4-/5
Rock quality: 3/5
Bolting: 4+/5
Surroundings: 4+/5
Approach: 5/5

See all photos:

Serrada, Rovereto, 8.7.2015

Read More

0

Looking for a shade from Valli Giudicarie and Comano

If you just want to see the photos then click here>>

Rumors tells that we are enjoying the hottest summer in Italy in 136 years. Our car shows +43 Celcius degrees, crazy. Now our challenge is to find a reasonable place where to climb without dehydration and sunburns.

Valli Giudicarie has pastures, woods and wild beauty and pure nature and silence. North west facing
crag is located nearby the relaxed small village Comano at the high altitude of 850 meters. Access is easy and quick. Even thou it takes about 40 minutes from Arco by car but then after parking only few minutes by feet.

Once we got there the temperature was showing only +30 Celcius degrees so the drop from 43 degrees was significant.

Comano has total of 29 routes around 15 to 20 meters high. Difficulty of the routes is wide starting from 4 and going up to the 8a majority of the routes being in the range of 6c to 7c. So this crag has plenty to offer from a bit better climbers. Still as a hot day visit crag has enough routes to try for a low to medium level athletes too. There is total of 3 routes below 6 and total of 6 6a-6b routes to be climbed.

Rock quality varies between routes and the bolting is good standard. Some of the routes might be just slightly polished but nothing that prevents climbing. Just be careful with the grades showing on the crag that not always showing the right difficulty. Latest 2015 edition of the Versante Sud Arco Rock had the corrected difficulties that were much more precise.

Comano is a nice crag to visit during hot days or if you are looking for new challenges. Not a classic but offers good climbing on partially overhanging walls with a wide level of difficulties. Good alternative for hot afternoons.


Crag grade: 3+/5
Rock quality: 3+/5
Bolting: 4/5
Surroundings: 5/5
Approach: 5/5

See all photos:

Comano, Valli Giudicarie, 7.7.2015

Read More

0