Sunny climbing on enjoyable routes at Paretina di Pian Marino

Click here if you just want to see the photos

One thing that has been surprising is the weather. We had a luck of getting total of 10 sunny days in a row. Autumn is usually nice here but this has been an extraordinary good period even in the terms of Finale. For the Halloween Saturday we picked a crag  with praised surroundings that has routes for beginners to medium level climbers. 


Paretina di Pian Marino if part of the huge Rocca Carpanea climbing area. It has total of 41 routes ranging from 4 to 6c and the rock goes from grey and white to red limestone. Surroundings of the crag are excellent for a sunny picnic and the approach in comfortable which makes it a great target for a family climbing day, beginners or for a group of a different levels of climbers.

The left side of the crag is primarily grey limestone with shorter slab routes. The middle and right side of the crag has longer and slightly more demanding 6 graded routes. That side of the crag is also more wild in terms of the rock wall and route types. Steeper routes and rough rock roofs on a white limestone looks actually stunning just before the sunset as the views from top of the longest routes. Grading of the routes is "softer" in the terms of difficulty but few routes are polished. Polishing is still not a major issue here and climbing is enjoyable.

There was a great arete line Gemelli Ribelli which was a excellent warm-up route. When ever you have an opportunity ti climb an arete or a crack corner then just climb it. So far every arete or corner route has been super good in Finale.

See all photos:

Finale Ligure, Rocca Carpanea, Paretina di Pian Marino, 1.11.2014

Read More

0

Rocca Carpanea - Pilastrino mirovino

If you just want to see the photos then click here

How often you lost your way when looking for a new crag? I bet that almost everyone will eventually lose their way when adventuring on a new neighborhood with poor instructions. That's what happened to us already with the failed approach to Pilastrino mirovino and after the short but intense approach we found back to Falesia delle Tecchie. 

Today we decided to give another try and see if we can do any better. If you won't succeed on the first time, try again. I might be illiterate but the approach to the crag is not obvious.

This time we succeeded but not without spending a lot of time wondering in the woods. And at the end approach to the crag is almost easy. Advice for the potential climbers heading up there. Use GPS just in case and try to find the small rock piles that are potentially heading to the crag, we have seen several groups trying to find it without a success.

Pilastrino mirovino is still an excellent crag for a medium level climbers with a good quality rock. Crag has total of 13 routes from 5a to 6c average being 6a+ length being around 25 meters. Types of the routes varies from slabs to vertical and overhanging, so lots of different types of routes to climb. Grading is relatively easy in Finale standards, but still not overgraded. If 6 is your target grade and you like longer routes on a good rock then Pilastrino mirovino is the crag to go.

Belayer safety first, sling to the rock.

Small holds.

Excellent views from the top.

See all photos:

Finale Ligure, Rocca Carpanea- Pilastrino mirovino, 29.10.2014

Read More

0

Chilly east faces - Val di Nava, Falesia del sole

If you just want to see the photos then click here

Rock climbing during the autumn seems to be excellent as long you stay on the right side of the mountain. Our hunt for the good and solid rock lead us this time to eastern face and the difference is definitely noticeable. Temperature is not cold  but the shady eastern face is not the warmest place to be for your fellow belayer.

Today's mission was to continue our adventure from last year by visiting a sequel crag to Falesia del Luna. Falesia del sole is facing to the east and not towards the sun as the name may promise and I bet the crag is very cold during the mid winter months and excellent during the late spring and early autumn.

Routes are about the same height when compared to the twin crag Falesia del Luna but sole is slightly harder crag when it comes to grades. It is still for medium level climbers having total of 19 routes from 5a to 6c majority of routes being 6a+ and 6b grading. Grades are mostly though, except the routes I on-sighted ;)

There are lots of rumors about a bad and polished  climbing routes in Finale. It is most probably true but it is definitely not the whole truth. For example both, Falesia del sole and luna are in a good conditions. Of course routes have been climbed but I didn't noticed any serious showstoppers due a polished rock, bad skills stopped me several times instead.

And what did we climbed, few 6a+ routes, one 5b and 6b+ which was my hardest clean ascent in Finale so far. I have to admit that the route was perfect fit for me, strong boulder start moves and then switching to a leaning slab. Excellent day!

Mika's first clean 6b+ ascent in Finale.

Mika's first clean 6b+ ascent in Finale.

See all photos:

Finale Ligure,Val di Nava, Falesia del sole, 27.10.2014

Read More

0

Lost and found back to Falesia delle Tecchie

If you just want to see the photos then click here

If bolting or polished routes are common topic among sport climbers so are approaches. In Finale approaches are usually clear and there is not that much space for an error. Well this time there was. We even have the latest gear to find the crag but it doesn't always help.

Our initial target of the day was Pilastrino mirovino crag at the Rocca Carpanea. It is only 5 minutes further from Falecia delle Tecchie where we had the 1st visit just a year ago. So plan was simple and coordinates clear but as you may guess things didn't went as planned. Somehow we got lost from the approach path and we weren't the only ones who had same issues. Unlucky group of Germans were also wondering in the woods with the same problems. Maybe it is just pure incompetence but after a while we just found to Falecia delle Tecchie and decided to climb there instead Pilastrino mirovino. On top of that I had dropped my jacket while wondering in the woods. It took just a 15 minutes hill run exercise to find it, lesson: Do not have an uphill run training session before climbing! 

During the last visit we climbed primarily on the left side of the crag. This time we decided to head further to the right and see rest of the routes. Right end of the crag has the most demanding routes starting from 6a+ and ending up to 8b+. Routes are between 10 to 20 meters on a red limestone. Special detail is a cave covered with a brick wall that gets a nice golden glow when the sun is about to set.

Back to climbing, again the grading is mostly though. Shorter routes that I climbed were demanding but rewarding. Again typical Finale, pockets, pockets and small pockets. Still good climbing on a good rock with good bolting.

Finale has enough sharp pockets!

Heta got some tension to her muscles.

See all photos:

Finale Ligure,Rocca Carpanea, Falesia delle Tecchie, 26.10.2014

Read More

0

Beaches of Finale and Finalborgo

If you just want to see the photos then click here. 

Last full day at Finale Ligure. Today we decided to take a good look over the beaches, city and Finalborgo, one of the most beautiful mediaval cities in Italy. Weather was perfect for a tour and as bonus there was plenty to see because of the Finale for Nepal event in Finalborgo. 

Beaches of the Finale Ligure are great and beaches basically covers one side of the city completely. In October beaches are almost empty but still few swimmers were breave enough to enjoy the sea. I can imagine that during the hot summer months the streets are packed with tourists and the whole beach is crowded by sun worshipers.

Restaurants and palm trees covers the the nice beachline boulevard and just behind the boulevard you can find a great number of small stores and boutiques. Central area of the Finale Ligure compact but big enough to find all the essentials in a nearby area.

After the city tour we headed to mediaval Finalborgo that is one of the three urban districts forming the town of Finale Ligure. It was independent municipality until 1927 when it was merged with Finale Finale Marina Pia and to form the present-day municipality of Finale Ligure. 

Finalborgo is definitely the most facinating part of the city. It is surrounded by walls and all the narrow streets are only for pedestrians and bikers. It seems to be the base for climbers and mountainbikers and here are the climbing and biking stores too. Today the whole Finalborgo was a huge exhibition area with full of different climbing and biking activities because of the Finale for Nepal event. Finalborgo has definitely certain similiarities with Arco in Lake Garda, starting from the narrow mediaval streets and lifestyle.

Day was a good conclusion for our first trip to Ligure Finale and now it is time to prepare our return to Finland. We shall see when it is time for the next adventure to Italy. Until then, Grazie!

Slackline over the river.

Hot chestnuts.

 

Junior bouldering competition.

Spinning class.

See all photos:

Finale Ligure,Center and Finalborgo, 6.10.2013

Read More

2

Rian Cornei, Falesia del cinghiale - long, sharp and demanding

If you just want to see the photos then click here.

Finale is known of demanding routes and pockets. I heard from one fellow climber how he used to have 6b:s as a warmup but in Finale he ended up having a projects on his warmup 6b routes. His tip for me was to have humble attitude when choosing routes.

Today we had humble feelings. Our target was Falecia del cinghiale at Rian Cornei. Approach is quite long and demanding but guidebook had good and correct instructions how to get there. Crag offers great rock, good bolting and tall routes, on average 20+ meters.

Grades of the routes start from 5c and end up to 7c, majority being at the 6a+ range, but don't be fooled, routes are more demanding what the grade states. Wall has pockets like in many others crags in Finale, here the speciality was pockets with sharp rock.

Heta in the cave. Few 7 routes started from here.

Sharp rock and pockets makes overhanging routes and bulges painfull in same cases. The sharp edge of a pocket on an overhanging route can be painfull for fingers when you have to keep up the body weight. I was able to manage vertical routes with sharp pockets but immediately when the route had overhaning bulges my fingers started to scream.

Artistic rock shapes.

And then about grading. Finale is known to have demanding routes and majority of the routes start from the 6 or 7 range. Even the easy 5 routes are sometimes surprising. Grading on the best case is tight but correct like in Falesia della luna.  Today I climbed 25 meters 5c as a warmup and in some crags that would have been typical long 6a. And the 25 meters 6a would have been 6a+. But once I took the 17 meters 6a+ I felt complete beaten up. At the Falesia del cinghiale the difference between 6a and 6a+ was more than typical difference between 6a and 6b. Typically I onsight all 6a+ routes and some 6b routes, but today the overhanging 6a+ got me. And after that I decided to have a nice cooldown route, overhanging 13 meters 5c, I did it, but it was a true fight.

6a+ just under the bottom bulge.

Great long and challenging lines, recommended if you are 6a to 7 climber!



See all photos:

Finale Ligure,Rian Cornei, Falesia del cinghiale, 5.10.2013

Read More

2

Val di Nava, Falesia della luna

 If you just want to see the photos then click here.

The Val di Nava region is easy to access and quickest approach to a crag from the parking takes only three minutes (to Il Pilastro). At the range of ten minutes walk from the parking you can easily access total of seven crags. 

Our choise of the day was  cliff of the moon, as the name says. It is located a bit further away about 20 minutes walk from the nearest parking. Crag surroundings are nice and it offers recently bolted routes with excellent rock quality and reasonable route lenght with grood views from the top. Approach is well marked and easy to follow. Crag offers good setting for a climbing day, it has total of 12 routes from 5b to 6b. Majority of the lines are graded 6a+. 

Grading of the routes is quite tight but precise and good for 6a and 6b climbers. Tight grading means that usually routes are demanding for their grade and on some other places you could climb similiar routes graded + higher.

Routes started nicely from an open area and it was quick to switch from one route to another. Maybe that was the reason why we completed total of seven routes and most of them being 6a:s. Recommended crag becasue of good bolting, well graded routes and good rock quality.  

Nice surroundings.

Heta leading 5c, Pollux.

Top.

See all photos:

Finale Ligure,Val di Nava, Falesia della Luna, 4.10.2013

Read More

0

Rocca Carpanea, Falesia delle Tecchie

 If you just want to see the photos then click here.


Rocca Carpanea is another great playground like the nearby Rocca di Perti. Both mountains are nearby the Finale Ligure and offer a great selection of crags and routes to explore. Rocca Carpanea has total of 21 crags and our target for the day was sector Falesia delle Tecchie.

Falesia delle Tecchie has total of 28 routes from 5b to 8b, majority of the routes are 6a and 6b graded. Rock is good quality and routes are not polished. Bolting is good but few of the maillons at the top might be worn out. Length of the routes varies between 10 to 22 meters and the average route lenght is around 18 meters. Crag has a relatively easy access, 10 minutes from parking, and path is mostly well marked with red dots as usual in the region. Crag is facing west and the top anchors offers great views over the Finale and to the Mediterranean Sea.

Nature is always a part of the rock climbing and  we got a good reminder of it today when one of the planned route had an active bees nest and a scorpion at the bottom. On the next route I was wondering the wet feeling of the holds, and surprise, some bat poo was waiting in the holds. Bees and a scorpion at the bottom were good reminders to check that
cortisone pills were still in the first aid kit.

During the day we climbed total of 6 routes and skipped one because of bees. Good day, nice crag, defnitely recommended even with some bat poo.

6a balance test slab.

Bees nest in a 6a+ route.

View over Finale Ligure from road to Rocca Carpanea.

  

See all photos:

Finale Ligure,Rocca Carpane, Falesia delle Tecchie, 3.10.2013, 2.10.2913

Read More

0