Switch from ice to rock faces at Regina del Lago

After four days of ice climbing and two days of snowboarding it was time to switch the mode from ice to rock. This time of the year is a perfect for longer rock climbing routes to we headed down to Sarca valley and Arco.

After the longer ice climbing routes we decided to start with shorter 110 meter routes at Regina del Lago. Regina's Prima Fascia sector has great 4-6 pitch long routes with quick approach and easy exit. And actually after climbing a longer route you have three good option, head to the sport sectors, continue longer lines at the Regina del Lago C-sector or just walk down and start the next route.

This is the second time at the Prima Fascia sector and today we climbed two 6a lines, Via Settimo Cielo and Via Messalina. Both routes were enjoyable to climb and the belay stations were relaxed with excellent view over the valley below and Lake Garda.

Prima Fascia sector has 20 know routes and we also found some fresh ones too. Majority of the routes are bolted during last 5 to 10 years. But be aware some of them have trad pitches in the middle and few of the routes are complete alpine graded. I was also surprised about the wide range of grades in the routes. Easiest ones start from 5b and most difficult ones go as high as 7b. A great range of difficulties for a one sector.

After the 2nd visit at this sector I'm convinced that this is the best part of the Regina del Lago crag.

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Regina del Lago - multipitch routes, 23.3.2016

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More fresh snow at Val di Fassa and Belvedere - Passo Pordoi

Val di Fassa seems to have a great spring this year. While the snow dumps have been slowing up our ice climbing the snowboarding has been a pure joy. Of course some of the easy off pistes have been skied so that there is nothing left, but there was still plenty for us too.

Today we had the most spectacular view over Dolomites. The highest peak at the nearby area is he Sass Pordoi, 2950 meters. It is accessible via cable car and can be skied down. Magnificent views! A worthwhile Refugio to visit and have a coffee.

After all we got a pretty good impression of the Val di Fassa. Of course if you are hunting for lots of black slopes then this is not the best choice. But for the regular skiers, snowboarders or off piste skiers Val di Fassa has a lot to offer.

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Val di Fassa and Belvedere - Passo Pordoi, 20.3.2016

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Santa Cristina and Cascata Tervela

Today's new ice fall to discover is in Val Gardena and Santa Cristina. Cascata Tarvela is a true drive in ice fall. Walk from the parking to the ice fall takes only 5-10 minutes. 

Great ice fall that is quite easy to see from the city. It offers 1-2 pitch climbs on a varying grade from WI3 to WI4+. It is an ideal place to get used to the Dolomite ice and for the days when you don't want to take the long approaches.

The view over the city of Santa Cristine is also splendid during the spring. The opposite side of the city is almost clean form the snow while you can still climb on a ice fall. Big contrast!

For us the day at the Cascata Tervela offered a good opportunity to climb several single pitch climbs and get prepared for the next multi pitch. Good day and a great reason to see Santa Cristina.

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Santa Cristina and Cascata Tervela, 19.3.2016

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Rian Cornei, Falesia del cinghiale - long, sharp and demanding

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Finale is known of demanding routes and pockets. I heard from one fellow climber how he used to have 6b:s as a warmup but in Finale he ended up having a projects on his warmup 6b routes. His tip for me was to have humble attitude when choosing routes.

Today we had humble feelings. Our target was Falecia del cinghiale at Rian Cornei. Approach is quite long and demanding but guidebook had good and correct instructions how to get there. Crag offers great rock, good bolting and tall routes, on average 20+ meters.

Grades of the routes start from 5c and end up to 7c, majority being at the 6a+ range, but don't be fooled, routes are more demanding what the grade states. Wall has pockets like in many others crags in Finale, here the speciality was pockets with sharp rock.

Heta in the cave. Few 7 routes started from here.

Sharp rock and pockets makes overhanging routes and bulges painfull in same cases. The sharp edge of a pocket on an overhanging route can be painfull for fingers when you have to keep up the body weight. I was able to manage vertical routes with sharp pockets but immediately when the route had overhaning bulges my fingers started to scream.

Artistic rock shapes.

And then about grading. Finale is known to have demanding routes and majority of the routes start from the 6 or 7 range. Even the easy 5 routes are sometimes surprising. Grading on the best case is tight but correct like in Falesia della luna.  Today I climbed 25 meters 5c as a warmup and in some crags that would have been typical long 6a. And the 25 meters 6a would have been 6a+. But once I took the 17 meters 6a+ I felt complete beaten up. At the Falesia del cinghiale the difference between 6a and 6a+ was more than typical difference between 6a and 6b. Typically I onsight all 6a+ routes and some 6b routes, but today the overhanging 6a+ got me. And after that I decided to have a nice cooldown route, overhanging 13 meters 5c, I did it, but it was a true fight.

6a+ just under the bottom bulge.

Great long and challenging lines, recommended if you are 6a to 7 climber!



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Finale Ligure,Rian Cornei, Falesia del cinghiale, 5.10.2013

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Rocca Carpanea, Falesia delle Tecchie

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Rocca Carpanea is another great playground like the nearby Rocca di Perti. Both mountains are nearby the Finale Ligure and offer a great selection of crags and routes to explore. Rocca Carpanea has total of 21 crags and our target for the day was sector Falesia delle Tecchie.

Falesia delle Tecchie has total of 28 routes from 5b to 8b, majority of the routes are 6a and 6b graded. Rock is good quality and routes are not polished. Bolting is good but few of the maillons at the top might be worn out. Length of the routes varies between 10 to 22 meters and the average route lenght is around 18 meters. Crag has a relatively easy access, 10 minutes from parking, and path is mostly well marked with red dots as usual in the region. Crag is facing west and the top anchors offers great views over the Finale and to the Mediterranean Sea.

Nature is always a part of the rock climbing and  we got a good reminder of it today when one of the planned route had an active bees nest and a scorpion at the bottom. On the next route I was wondering the wet feeling of the holds, and surprise, some bat poo was waiting in the holds. Bees and a scorpion at the bottom were good reminders to check that
cortisone pills were still in the first aid kit.

During the day we climbed total of 6 routes and skipped one because of bees. Good day, nice crag, defnitely recommended even with some bat poo.

6a balance test slab.

Bees nest in a 6a+ route.

View over Finale Ligure from road to Rocca Carpanea.

  

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Finale Ligure,Rocca Carpane, Falesia delle Tecchie, 3.10.2013, 2.10.2913

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Red and white walls of Rocca di Corno

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Rocca di Corno offers enjoyable routes on red and white walls. Wall consists of 6 separate crags or sections located around the corner.

Approach is relatively easy if you are familiar with narrow roads and steep turns, here small car is recommended. From the parking it took about 10 to 15 minutes to reach the walls. Small detail from the appraoch is that it passes an ancien Roman route with a well-preserved bridge, Ponte delle Fate.

During the day we visited at the Ghiro and Futura walls. Routes in the sectors are mainly vertical but there are few overhanging sections.  Both, Giro and Futua are well bolted and have routes from 5a to 7a. Majority of the routes were graded 6

Melted rock shapes.

and length of the routes varies between 10 to 23 meters. Overall grading was tight, routes are not undergraded but definitely hard for the given grades. Rock quality is good and routes are not too polished.

Environment was quiet and relaxed. Only the noices of birds and the nearby farm's rooster's sound was on the background. On some parts the wall looked like a melted organic material. Silence, weird rock shapes and the strong colors of red and white made the atmosphere unique.

During the day we climbed 5 routes from Heta's 5a to mine 6b+ top rope project.  Hardest route of the day was definitely the 6b+  Igor with small pockets (one finger pockets) and delicate exit. Route required finger strength, was consuming and took some time, energy and dedication to get it through. Final route for the day was a bit easier our own variant, combined accent from 5c and 6a+ that wasn't walk in a park either but I completed it onsight.

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Finale Ligure, Rocca di Corno - Futura - Giro, 1.10.2913

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Rocca di Perti - a huge playground

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Rocca dei Perti has something for every climber, mountain has crags from sport climbing to multi-pitch walls. Region has total of 19 crags in a relatively small area and approaches from two main entry points. Longest multi-pitch routes are longer than 100 meters and there are lot of long sport routes too. Rocca di Perti has enough routes to offer for a whole summer holiday from beginner to higher level climbers. The only downside is that the nearby motorway A10 causes some background noice on few sectors.

Approeach to the crag goes next to Mediterranean Sea.

Yesterday's visit to Rocca dei Perti was cut short due the rain so we decided to head back. Our crag for the day was Falesia dei tre porcellini (cliff of three little pigs). Crag has total of 32 routes from 5a to 6b+ and a lot of them are longer than 20 meters. Routes are recently and well bolted and it is offering a good selection of lines for a medium level climber. Several of the lines are multipitch routes (2-3 pitches). Routes are mainly slabs with crags with few corners (arêtes). Rock quality is good and not polished so even the hardest 6b slabs are in excellent condition.

Nice, approach via palm streets.

During the day we climbed total of 6 routes Heta's 5b, two 5c and 6a routes and one 6b route. All climbed routes were well graded, enjoyable and offering enough challenge for the given grades. Most enjoyable climbs for the day were Topo Gas Gas 5c - nice slab moves and an overhanging section, Biancanave - short 6a arête and Pinoccio - short 6b slab with few reaches on small fingery holds.

Falesia dei tre porcellini, great crag for 5 to 6b+ climbers on good quality rock, recommended.

View from the top.

Mediterranean Sea can be seen from the top.

Enjoyable 5c slab.

Enjoyable 5c slab.

Enjoyable 5c slab hold.

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Finale Ligure, Falesia dei Tre Porcellini, 30.9.2013

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