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Whooo! What an experience in many ways, physically tough, challenging to climb, mentally exhausting, but still so awesome and gorgeous!
Multi-pitch climbing is a climbing route that cannot be climbed with one rope length and it requires one or more stops at a belay stations. Each section of actual climbing between stops at the belay stations is called a pitch.
Our team, Sami and Nora, chose to climb as their first real multipitch the route Amazzonia (5/5 stars at Sarca walls Guidebook) at Piccolo Dain sector at Parete Del Limaro in a town of Sarche. Amazzonia is 250 meter high and consists of 11 pitches. The most difficult grade is 5C and there are only four pitches under 5, the first three pitches and the last one. We climbed the entire route alternating: the leader ascended the pitch and stopped to a belay station and then the second ascended to a belay station, where we exchanged to a new leader for the next pitch. Sami started as the first leader for the whole route.
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| Sarca walls guidebook: Amazzonia and Orizzonti Dolomitici |
The approach to the start of the route didn’t go very smoothly. We followed the instructions from older guidebook (2007, new 2013), which directed us to cross the Sarca river. Fortunately, the other team had an updated guidebook, which has dry feet approach to the crag. But what begins badly, cannot end badly, this is an experience. ;)
It took 6 hours in total to approach and ascent the Amazzonia. When Nora leaded her longest and most difficult pitch (6. pitch, 5a+5b “amazing slab”), hit the rain. Yippee!! :D No excuses, just had to keep moving upwards despite the rain. Luckily it all went well and no need to pull from quickdraw, even if it is allowed on multipitch oute. Fortunately term “slab” does not always mean positive wall with only couple of crystals on limestone, but it could be positive wall with some kind of holds, even with jugs. :)
Sami had his Suunto Ambit to track the ascent and it showed over 2500 kcal burned when we topped the route! This explains why we were really exhausted on the top of Amazzonia… The routes did lot of curves and the ropes were very heavy after the rain, so it was hard work to pull them during the lead and at belay station. Nora had only water to drink in her hydration back bag and Sami had hydration drink (North Force Extreme) in his Camelbak. There was no time for breaks because found the descending route same time as dusk arrived. This meant that we had only approximately 30 minutes to get down to our car. The route down was NOT any highway, 45 degrees hill with fist sized round stones to surf on. Legs were jelling for help, but no time to stop or even slow down a bit. Luckily with the guidance help from our other climbing team we managed to get down just before the darkness came…! Note to ourselves: Head light in the back bag wouldn't have been a bad idea to carry with...
It took almost a week to recover from the Amazzonia. The most exhausted was to pull the wet rope at belay stations. The new rope, Beal Joker Unicore 9.1 mm, worked perfectly, but the old rope, Beal Diablo Unicore 9,8 mm, was really heavy. Otherwise the equipment and hardware worked molto buono. Nora’s Miuras became wet but not slippery, Helly Hansen surfing shirt was excellent choice, The North Face Chugach back bag was unnoticeable and Petzl Elia helmet with Bolle sunglasses protected Nora’s precious head. Sami got his new La Sportiva Testarosa shoes just days before the multipitch, now they fit perfectly to his feet after being soaking wet. Norrona’s Fjorå back bag was excellent choice and did not disturb lead climbing at all. Helmet was really important since rocks fell down all the time.
When we belayed, we took shoes off and stood in stocking feet on rock. Fortunately we didn’t drop any gear and especially ATC guides (Petzl Reverso 4), because we had only one extra with us. We should have used longer slings when the route made bigger turns to avoid friction. We even skipped some clips to make the route straighter.
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| Gear ready for journey |
We managed well with the signals until the last pitch. Nora was so tired that she didn’t realized what Sami meant with his signals, there was 5 meters slack in Joker rope. Sarca river passed just below the crag and the hairpin road to Madonna di Campiglio started across the river, so there was no possibility to hear any shouts. Pitches were zikzaking as mentioned before and there were a lot of forms on the wall, so there was neither any visual contact. The sign language consisted of different rope pulling sets. What we really consider for next multipitch are the walkie talkie radios. Sure it adds the weight, but could help a lot if rope communication is not enough…
Even if the descent route was quite challenging, we were happy that there was one. Rappelling would have been almost impossible, because of fatigue and difficulty to find belay stations.
Overall, the Amazzonia is indeed worth of 5 stars. The route is safe (bolt spacing about 2 meters and you can stand on every belay station), diverse and challenging. It has nice views, good rock and easy access (when you know the right one). All in all an amazing, wonderful and never to be forgotten experience for both of us!!
With love, Nora and Sami
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| Upwards from some belay station in the middle of Amazzonia |
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| And downwards, to Sarche town, from the same spot |
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| It begun to blur when we reached the top of Amazzonia |
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| Exhausted climbers on the top |
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| After awesome experience with the gear on. Nora has the heavy Diablo and Sami has the light Joker. |
- See more in Finnish at: Treenipäiväkirja - La Multipitch
- Releated story: Excellent multipitches at Piccolo Dain in Sarche
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