The eternal knot tied at Garda Trentino

The Story of friends, climbing, Garda Trentino and loveeee...

I start from the very beginning. Two years ago when Mika and Heta were visiting Arco (again) they wanted to take their bikes with. Sami and Nora borrowed their bike rack (Thule EuroWay G2 921, very handy) and as compensation Sami got his first climbing harness. So, Sami started climbing, because he had harness and Mika needed a friend to belay. Sami really liked climbing and he started to look for another climbing partner when Mika was not available, so he asked Nora to try. Nora fell in love with climbing and they started to climb together a lot.

This tells something about the importance of climbing in their life. Nora played beach volley and volleyball as a semi-pro player, but since she started climbing, she has hardly played a match. Sami raced DH biking, but since he started climbing, he has done that twice in total. ;)

So, they trained climbing and bouldering at indoor places in Helsinki region and Tampere, they traveled to climb in Sicily and Sweden, they climbed at crags all around Finland and they were really happy together. They coached each other, they encouraged each other, they helped each other, they belayed each other, they spoke about climbing, they watched climbing movies and the most important they spent their best time together while climbing.

It was January 2013 when they planned to travel to Garda Trentino at Summer. At the same time Nora got an idea to get finally married after eight years together. They both love Italy and climbing and especially they love each other so what would be a better place to tie an eternal knot between them.

Nora's wedding ring, the eternal knot

The final test for the marriage was set to be passed at Sarca walls. The test was to do multipitch climbing together as a pair. ;) It was three days before the wedding when they approached Amazzonia route (5/5 stars, Sarca Walls– Guidebook) at the crag of Piccolo Dain at Parete Del Limaró. The route is 11 rope lengths and 250 meters, the hardest grade is 5C.  As they have enjoyed time together while climbing also the multipitch ascent went perfectly, even if it was raining when Nora leaded her longest and hardest pitch (5b), the ropes were wet and heavy and they didn't have time for breaks to get down before sunset. It took 6 hours and they were totally exhausted after the tour, but they worked as a solid team from start to end. So there were no doubts for the successful marriage! :D

Check the full story from here.

On the top of the world, or at least on the top of Amazzonia!

The end of story, but the beginning of lovely start for another one...

Thanks to the Italian friends for all the pre-work since the ceremony went perfect. Riva del Garda is very international city, so they gave very precise information what they need for a civil wedding ceremony. But it is good to communicate in Italian with the people working at city, if possible. Nora's lovely Italian volleyball teammate Alice helped a lot with the booking, documents and jewelry. Also Valentina and Daniele from Garda Trentino Tourist Office did great job by witnessing and translating the ceremony. The ceremony was at Comune di Riva del Garda (City Hall) by the Lake Garda.

After the ceremony by Lake Garda

This beautiful and lovely happening was really worth to immortalize. Mika made invaluable work to sweat and run with the married couple around the city of Arco and the Calvario crag. The day was hot even it was not so sunny. The feelings, the happiness, the love and the action were captured to these awesome photos.

Yoga and dynos are keys for good climber and excellent relationship. (c) Mika Huhtamäki

"See, there are some mountains!" (c) Mika Huhtamäki

"Catch me if you can!" (c) Mika Huhtamäki

Heading into the future together  (c) Mika Huhtamäki

Some extra without make-up and dress :)

Balancing at Via Ferrata Rio Salagoni (c) Mika Huhtamäki

The news of the wedding

Basso Sarca e Ledro News

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Amazzonia - 5 stars multipitch at Parete Limaro

Read also releated story: Excellent multipitches at Piccolo Dain in Sarche

Whooo! What an experience in many ways, physically tough, challenging to climb, mentally exhausting, but still so awesome and gorgeous!

Multi-pitch climbing is a climbing route that cannot be climbed with one rope length and it requires one or more stops at a belay stations. Each section of actual climbing between stops at the belay stations is called a pitch.

Our team, Sami and Nora, chose to climb as their first real multipitch the route Amazzonia (5/5 stars at Sarca walls Guidebook) at Piccolo Dain sector at Parete Del Limaro in a town of Sarche. Amazzonia is 250 meter high and consists of 11 pitches. The most difficult grade is 5C and there are only four pitches under 5, the first three pitches and the last one. We climbed the entire route alternating: the leader ascended the pitch and stopped to a belay station and then the second ascended to a belay station, where we exchanged to a new leader for the next pitch. Sami started as the first leader for the whole route.

Sarca walls guidebook: Amazzonia and Orizzonti Dolomitici

The approach to the start of the route didn’t go very smoothly. We followed the instructions from older guidebook (2007, new 2013), which directed us to cross the Sarca river. Fortunately, the other team had an updated guidebook, which has dry feet approach to the crag. But what begins badly, cannot end badly, this is an experience. ;)

It took 6 hours in total to approach and ascent the Amazzonia. When Nora leaded her longest and most difficult pitch (6. pitch, 5a+5b “amazing slab”), hit the rain. Yippee!! :D No excuses, just had to keep moving upwards despite the rain. Luckily it all went well and no need to pull from quickdraw, even if it is allowed on multipitch oute. Fortunately term “slab” does not always mean positive wall with only couple of crystals on limestone, but it could be positive wall with some kind of holds, even with jugs. :)

Sami had his Suunto Ambit to track the ascent and it showed over 2500 kcal burned when we topped the route! This explains why we were really exhausted on the top of Amazzonia… The routes did lot of curves and the ropes were very heavy after the rain, so it was hard work to pull them during the lead and at belay station. Nora had only water to drink in her hydration back bag and Sami had hydration drink (North Force Extreme) in his Camelbak. There was no time for breaks because found the descending route same time as dusk arrived. This meant that we had only approximately 30 minutes to get down to our car. The route down was NOT any highway, 45 degrees hill with fist sized round stones to surf on. Legs were jelling for help, but no time to stop or even slow down a bit. Luckily with the guidance help from our other climbing team we managed to get down just before the darkness came…! Note to ourselves: Head light in the back bag wouldn't have been a bad idea to carry with...

It took almost a week to recover from the Amazzonia. The most exhausted was to pull the wet rope at belay stations. The new rope, Beal Joker Unicore 9.1 mm, worked perfectly, but the old rope, Beal Diablo Unicore 9,8 mm, was really heavy. Otherwise the equipment and hardware worked molto buono. Nora’s Miuras became wet but not slippery, Helly Hansen surfing shirt was excellent choice, The North Face Chugach back bag was unnoticeable and Petzl Elia helmet with Bolle sunglasses protected Nora’s precious head. Sami got his new La Sportiva Testarosa shoes just days before the multipitch, now they fit perfectly to his feet after being soaking wet. Norrona’s Fjorå back bag was excellent choice and did not disturb lead climbing at all. Helmet was really important since rocks fell down all the time.

When we belayed, we took shoes off and stood in stocking feet on rock. Fortunately we didn’t drop any gear and especially ATC guides (Petzl Reverso 4), because we had only one extra with us. We should have used longer slings when the route made bigger turns to avoid friction. We even skipped some clips to make the route straighter.

Gear ready for journey

We managed well with the signals until the last pitch. Nora was so tired that she didn’t realized what Sami meant with his signals, there was 5 meters slack in Joker rope. Sarca river passed just below the crag and the hairpin road to Madonna di Campiglio started across the river, so there was no possibility to hear any shouts. Pitches were zikzaking as mentioned before and there were a lot of forms on the wall, so there was neither any visual contact. The sign language consisted of different rope pulling sets. What we really consider for next multipitch are the walkie talkie radios. Sure it adds the weight, but could help a lot if rope communication is not enough…

Even if the descent route was quite challenging, we were happy that there was one. Rappelling would have been almost impossible, because of fatigue and difficulty to find belay stations.

Overall, the Amazzonia is indeed worth of 5 stars. The route is safe (bolt spacing about 2 meters and you can stand on every belay station), diverse and challenging. It has nice views, good rock and easy access (when you know the right one). All in all an amazing, wonderful and never to be forgotten experience for both of us!!

With love, Nora and Sami

Upwards from some belay station in the middle of Amazzonia

And downwards, to Sarche town, from the same spot

It begun to blur when we reached the top of Amazzonia

Exhausted climbers on the top

After awesome experience with the gear on. Nora has the heavy Diablo and Sami has the light Joker.

- See more in Finnish at: Treenipäiväkirja - La Multipitch
- Releated story: Excellent multipitches at Piccolo Dain in Sarche

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Regina del Lago, great views over Valle di Ledro

Path to the crag starts from the mouth of the tunnel.

If you just want to see the photos then click here.

The old Ponale road leading to Pregasina is a well known mountainbiking trail up to the Punta dei Larici and back. For climbers the same road passes by one of the best medium level climbing crag, Regina del Lago. Regina del Lago offers total of 69 routes on four sectors from A to D. Grades of the routes starts from 4a and ends up to 7b. Majority of the routes are in the range of 5c to 6b.

So far the crags we have been visiting Regina del Lago offers the greatest view over the Lake Garda and  especially over the Valle di Ledro. The downside is that the approach is not the easiest one.

Aproach starts from the parking place just a bit after the tunnel ends. Car can be parked either to the right side of the road  SS240 just before the road on the left side to Pregasina. If the first parking is full there is the other convinient parking on the left side of the road, just after the turn to Pregasina. The third, but not recommended option, is to drive through the old tunnel mouth and park few hundred meters after the tunnel.

Parking is the easiest part of the approach. From the road side parking it takes about half an hour to reach the sectors. The crag is surrounded by steep woods and the last few hundred meters of the approach to sector B is 2c/3a climbing excercise. Heavy bags will add the difficulty factor considerably for the last part. See our photos from Picasa to get better understanding of the approach.

We visited at the sector B that is marked with few screws and a small rock on top of them? Maybe it is this or difficulty of the last hundred meters that the rock was one of the best quality (not polished) in the region. Bolting was well done and anchors were reliable as usual in the Garda region.

During the day we completed few 5c and 6a routes and as a conclusion we can recommend the crag, thou its not suitable for a families seeking for picnik type of a location.

Pregasina, Regina del Lago 17.6.2013

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Back to Italy 14.6. - 14.7.2013

We are finally heading back to our favorite summer camp, Lake Garda! Right now I can tell you that we are seriously busy while preparing all little details for the upcoming trip.

Traveling takes three days from Finland to Italy by car. Our trip goes via Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Austria to Italy. What scares us are the floods in southern Germany and Austria. It has been a mess out there and we shall see if all the main roads are accessible or not.

Our team is split into two waves this year. I'll be coming to Garda with Heta in the first wave and our reinforcements will be coming 28th and 29th of July ,just after the Finnish midsummer. So this year there will be total of 5 Rock Blockers adventuring at the Garda region.

To get into the right mood I decided to do some eye candy for our dear followers. Switch to full screen, turn on audio and see our summer teaser 2013. And remember to have fun!

See you at Lake Garda!

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Long routes at Scogliera di Salinella Sud

Our last climbing day's goal was to find long routes for Sami's 70 meters rope. San Vito Lo Capo won't let you down if you are seekin for meters to ascent. After a brief research of topos and potential routes we chose to return back to Scogliera di Salinella Sud. The area offers a huge variety of tall and good quality routes. Our choise of the day was to start from the Scomparto Rifiuti sector's Destra wall. Wall has only few routes from 5b to 6a+ but every one of them is 35 meters high with middle anchors. Our warmup was easy 5b wich was actually enjoyable climb because of the outstanding view that opened from the huge flake down to the Mediterranean sea.

Näytä suurempi kartta

Main route for us was the respectable 35 meters tall Grey Wall - 6a. Again this route was enjoyable to climb but at the topmost part the bolting was missing. For the last 10 meters part the only bolt to clip was at the neighbor route. So be aware for a potential runout at the final part. Otherwise no complains.

Our final calm down routes for the day found from the Centrale sector. Sector's routes were still 30 meters high, a nice calm down climb to top. During the great day Sami managed to climb 100 meters by climbing only three routes wich proved that our goal for the was accomplished.

Sad but true this was our last climbing day at Sicily and San Vito Lo Capo. As a conclusion all of us can truly recommend the rocks of San Vito. Lots and lots of new routes, no polished limestone, climbing during the winter months and not too crowded (yet?). A definite place to visit if you are planning to climb in Sicily. Ciao!

See the photo album:

Sicily 5.10.2012

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White Wall Sector at Cala Mancina

Cala Mancina as a whole is a huge sector containing up to eight walls. Today we decided to come back for a second time to Cala Mancina. Earlier visit was for the Zoo and Highwall sectors but today's target was the north side of the High Wall sector called White Wall. White Wall is also the only one of the walls that is pointing north making it a better option for climbing on a hot days to climb. White Wall offer routes between grades from 5 to 7 and the altitude of the routes varies from 13 meters up to 25 meters. Wall itself has an easy access from the north west side of San Vito Lo Capo.

Näytä suurempi kartta

During the daywe onsighted few 6a's and at the end of the day we finally managed to swim. There is a nice but slightly rough beach nearby the High Wall sector that is definitely recommended. We has the opportunity to enjoy a rare temperatures, sea water was crystal clear and  +24 celsius degrees on the shallow beach. Not too common during October. Again recommended if beautiful nature and tall rock walls makes your heart bump.

See the photo album:

Sicily 4.10.2012

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Scogliera di Salinella Sud: El-Bahira

Heading to the El-Bahira sector.

Guess what, we have been climbing today, again. It is amazing how many crags have been developed here during the last few years. Todays target is Scogliera di Salinella Sud's sectors, primarily El-Barhira sector. All Scogliera di Salinella Sud's routes are new and fresh and majority of them are tall from 20 meters up to 30 meters.

Our main target for the day was El-Bahira sector that is named after the camping site. el-Bahira camping is locates at the south from the center of the San Vito Lo Capo. Sector is divided into 6 different walls where one wall, Whitewall, is also illuminated during nights.

Sami warming up at the Pizzeria wall.

Warmup wall for the day was Pizzeria that is located at the north of the camping site. Sector has short routes from 2c to 7a and most of them are around 12 meters. Easier routes are recommended for climbing training and for others the routes from 5 to 6 are good warmups for the day.

Mika at the Ution wall.

Main routes for the day were at the Ution wall where routes are about 20 meters high and grades varies between 5a to 7b.  Wall itself was smoother rock quality than what we have been used to climb here. Partially it reminded more like Finnish gneiss. Climbing itself was enjoyable and the routes were well designed and bolted. Again a great day at Sicily and a recommended site to visit.

Heta at the Ution wall.

Author spoiling a nice view!

p.s. More photos will be available later when we have a faster Internet connection.

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In the shadow of the Bunker

World War II bunker guarding the beach.

Todays target was Scogliera di Salinella Centro wall guarded by a World War II bunker at the top of a 60 meters cliff. Climbing sector's name comes from the unreachable bunker that has been controlling the access to the rocky beaches during the war.

Bunker sector is located on the western coastline of San Vito. Approach is from top of the cliff where from an old dirt road heads down towards the rocky beach. Normal city car wasn't suitable for the approach and we took a walk on the rough but stunning beach towards north. Walking along the beach is like a travel to older times. Cows we pasturing at the top of the cliff and goats at the beachline. On the western skyline misty mountains rise from the sea. It is like travel to a fantacy world, amazing.

Heta on the rough beach.

Climbing routes on the wall are also well done. Most of the routes are around 20 meters high, highest routes are about 30 meters. Rock quoality is also good and routes are untouched, almost brand new, no worries about polished rock. Grades varies between 5 to 7 and majority of the routes are graded to 6 but there is still plenty of 5 and 7 graded routes available. Because of heavy waves and rough beach swimming at the Bunker sector is not recommended, but otherwise definitely a worthwhile place to visit.

We would like to add more photos but our local Internet access is too slow. More will be available later...

Heta leading on a fantasy world.

Sami on the wall.

Rough beach.

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