Rise Up - speed climbing and deep water solo

Relaxed social events are always great to be with friends. Millet Rise Up Tour in Arco is one of a kind happening where all climbers without distinction of age or skill can have good time together. Two days event started in Arco's climbing Arena and continued at the following morning with a deep water solo climbing event at Lake Garda.

This year I was lucky to get in the speed climbing competition. For me speed climbing is a new experience so I was climbing the route on-sight. I don't know if it is luck or Finnish mentality that let me push up to the 3rd semifinal round where I accidentally slipped and fell. After that round my next opponent for the finals would have been our ice-climbing couch from last winter's Marmolada adventure, Alessandro Beber. Well maybe it was better that I fell, he would have been too fast for me ;) Great fun thou.

Young power!

My 1st round speed climbing.

And after the competitive evening the following day started as an early morning wake-up with a paddle boat trip to the deep water solo wall. Climbing there was good but at some stage I started to wonder why I feel so cold all the time. I'm a Finn after all and cold water shouldn't be an issue and I was climbing on reasonable difficult routes. The reason for the cold became clear when I got back to home, my body temperature was 39,1 Celsius degrees, oh boy!


See the official video about the 2 days event.

I'm heading towards Madonna.

My brother Juha learns to be a superman.

Learning balance.

Late night picnic at the climbing arena.

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Via Trento and Via del 46 Parallelo - Parete Zebrata

During the last years Parete Zebrata has been our favorite hang around wall for quick and shady afternoon climbs. One obvious reason is the shade and reasonable afternoon and evening temperature even during the hot season. Wall is climbable even during the hottest days after around 4pm so the only limiting factor is the length of the day.

Rita
On the other hand Parete Zebrata is a good wall for longer 400+ long routes during the spring and fall. Still easier long routes are not necessarily always well protected, for example old and popular route Rita has several pitches where bolt spacing is around 15-20 meters. Usually distant bolts are not in a difficult spot but sometimes additional protective gear may help while climbing. Interesting route that has a long chimney at the last third. Just the history and length of the route justifies an ascent.

Via Trento
A good afternoon or evening route to be climbed during the hot season. Some friction climbing and few harder sections than the grade 5b. Good belay stations and safe descent makes it a nice option for a relaxed evening picnic over the Sarca valley.

Via del 46 Parallelo
Oldest route on the Parete Zebrata, easy with good belays stations. It can be a good training ground for a multipitch climbing as a 180 meters long. Somewhat long bolt distances may still scare some of the beginners off. We still managed to use it as a training climb for my brother and his girlfriend so at least in our case it was a good choice for that. Grade is 4a and mostly it is that, maybe few harder spots but no friction climbing.


Over the years we have climbed at least the following routes from Parete Zebrata:

• Opera Prima, 5b, 3 pitches, 100 meters
• Via Delle Mimose, 5b, 3 pitces, 120 meters
• Donne, 5b, 3 pitches, 120 meters
• Zo Le Man, 5b, 3 pitches, 120 meters
• Gino Gianna, 5b, 4 pitches, 150 meters
• Giusy, 5b / A0, 3 pitches, 150 meters
• Via Trento, 5b, 5 pitches, 180 meters
• Via del 46 Parallelo, 4a, 6 pitches, 180 meters
• Spinelo, 6a, 7 pitches, 220 meters
• Rita, 5c, 15 pitches, 400 meters

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Regina del Lago and long routes, 17.6.2016

Rock climbing is more than just a physical and mental test of your skills. On a right location it offers a great way to see the surrounding nature from a different point of a view. One of such places in Lago di Garda is Regina del Lago.

Regina del Lago is popular sport climbing crack that has also a nice sector of longer routes. We have
been visiting here occasionally and for us it is a great place to get started before longer and more demanding routes. Still when it comes to the challenge you an find routes up to 7b and 150 meters long so it has plenty to climb at the Prima Fascia and Seconda Fascia sectors.

Today's climb was one of the shortest routes, only 80 meters and 3 pitches with a grade of 5c/6a. Route was enjoyable with a reasonable boltin and great views. Scariest part was when snake was next to our belay station between 2nd and 3rd pitches. Most propably it was mildly or non poisonous Zamensis longissimus longissimus - Aesculapian snake.

So far we have climbed the following routes from the Sector Prima and Sector Seconda Facia:

• Via Caino e Abele, 6a+
• Via Plaisir, 6a
• Via Babilonia, 6a
• Via Sole Minore, 6a
• Via Sesto Senso, 6a+
• Via Settimo Cielo , 5c/6a
• Via Messalina, 6a

The views over the surrounding mountains, valleys and over the Lake Garda makes this wall unforgettable. 

Read more about Regina del Lago from our earlier posts:

2015 March: Switch from ice to rock faces at Regina del Lago

2014 March: Spring climbing over Ledro Valley

2013 June: Regina del Lago, great views over Valle di Ledro

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Via Ferrata Monte Albano is open again

Via Ferratas offers a quick and nice way to enjoy great views and heights without too much of a hassle. Instead of a multipitch climbing we decided to take a break from the normal routines and head to the Via Ferrata Monte Albano - Ottorini Marangoni. 

Monte Albano's ferrata has a respectable reputation but it has been closed since 2011. Luckily the
long maintenance project has been finally completed and route has been re-opened recently. We have been actually waiting several years to get there and now finally we got the long waited opportunity in our hands.

Route has been told to be the hardest outside higher Dolomite mountains by offering lots of open air. Route's grade is the hardest even it is only 350 meters long. Highest altitude at the end of the route is around 600 meters and the estimated time to complete the route is 4-5 hours including ascent and exit.

It seems that the route has been improved a lot during the maintenance and some of the old route
descriptions are not valid anymore. At the same time the surroundings have been improved too and there is an excellent boulder park with picnic tables and a public toilet just a few hundred meters before the ferrata.

For me it looked like that the beginning the route has been secured better than before as well are the airy traverses. Overall safety of the route is now in an good level. That may have turn the route slightly easier than before but we are not speaking about a Sunday walk here!

Route has splendid and exposed traverses what it has been known for. Lots and lots of open air around while traversing over the city of Mori makes this legend worthwhile to be experienced. And this route is not for a first timers. Having a good head for exposed rock walls and heights and some stamina is required.

We completed the route in about four hours and it could be completed even faster if you don't spend too much time for taking photos like we did. Recommended definitely!

Ferrata grade: 5/5
Route quality: 5/5
Security: 4/5
Surroundings/views: 5/5
Approach: 5/5
Exit: 5/5


See all photos:

Monte Albano - Ottorini Marangoni, 25.6.2015

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Hunt of new walls at Noriglio in Rovereto

If you just want to see photos then click here

Rovereto offers fresh views and new crags to explore for climbers who are seeking for new walls to conquer. Rovereto is not far away, it takes only 30 minutes by car from Lake Garda. And on top of rock climbing the old city has lot to offer from culture to shopping.

Rovereto has a long history and it is well known from the Peace Bell that has been cast from the bronze of the cannons of the nations that took part of the First World War. Mountain and alpinism has been also part of the heritage which shows also at the nearby Pasubio mountain's fortresses and structures from Word War I. If rock climbing is not enough or unpredictable rain spoils the day there is always something else to do. Day can be easily extended with a city tour, museum visit, winery tour or shopping afternoon.

But our day was dedicated for climbing. Today's target was Noriglio that has about 120 routes in 7 different sectors. Range of the difficulties at the crag vary between 2 to 8 and most of the routes being in the range of 5c to 6c. Approach is easy and short but the wall is hot to climb during summer months.

At Casa al Sole sector majority of the routes are in the range of 6. Rock quality is broken and vertical slab climbing with few overhangs and bulges. Rock is slightly polished on some routes but usually it is not affecting to climbing. Rock has also natural roundness and polished surface because of the dripping water that has smoothed the surface.

In the Casa al Sole sector belayer got nicely into shadows but the wall was facing to the sun for most of  the day. In the late afternoon or early evening the wall turns more into shadow so afternoon climbing is more than recommended during summer. Some of the sectors before the Casa al Sole are completely exposed to the sun and it is a good idea to avoid those during hot days. But for spring and fall climbing Noriglio seems to be perfect.

Routes at the sector are mostly well bolted and few routes were just recently re-bolted. It is still good idea to check the style of bolting because on some older routes the 2nd or 3rd bolt might be too high for completely safe climbing.  Over the day we climbed few 6a and 6a+ routes and one 5c warmup. Overall feeling is that grading is though but mostly fair so prepare for demanding routes.

Noriglio has good routes to offer but it is not the first choise for summer months. Some sectors have shorter routes and you can read more first hand experiences from Sami's & Nora's article.

See all photos:

Rovereto, Noriglio, 6.7.2014

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Untouched rock wall at le Piazzole

If you just want to see the photos then click here

Quality of the rock is continuous subject of speculation for climbers. Over the recent years we have seen a lots of different quality rock in Italy, mostly in the Lake Garda and nearby valleys. Usually climbers have been commenting the rock quality of Arco in negative light. Mostly because they have been visiting only old, legendary and thus polished crags. Luckily that is not the whole truth, far from it. The best limestone we have ever climbed is in le Piazzole at Arco.

Imagine a limestone wall with excellent grip and without any chalk markings. All routes are waiting for climbers to explore the possible and impossible holds and steps. Essence of the rock climbing comes from the evaluation of an untouched rock face and finding the proper holds. This is what le Piazzole currently offers. On top of that all the routes are bolted extremely well and safely. Of course all the surroundings and belaying points were perfectly placed. Excellent work from the "Outdoor Park Garda Trentino" project, way to go.


The crag has total of 22 routes from grades 5c to 7b, half of the routes being 6a and b. With the current routes the crag offers a great playground for 6a - 7b grade climbers. Over the climbing day we tested several 6a and 6b routes, all were in a great shape. While our visit at the crag we noticed that  the project was still going on. Several ungraded project lines were waiting beyond the right side of the wall. So we may expect more excellent climbing coming up in following years.


Le Piazzole is an excellent example of the endless climbing opportunities of the Garda region. There is still lots of great walls and routes to be found. And when visiting at the area it pays to read the climbing maps and find alternative crags instead of the legendary walls. The only downside is a relative long approach and that the wall is facing south-east. Great crag, worthwhile to visit several times!
  

See all photos:

Arco, le Piazzole, 1.7.2014

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Cool crag Val d'Algone

If you just want to see the photos then click here

During the hot summer months climbing at the Lake Garda region can be exhausting due the high temperatures. Thus shady and fresh crags are more than welcome for the thirsty climbers and Val d'Algone nearby Coltura offers one option for those hot days. Today we had such a day and so we decided head towards Val d'Algone.

Val d'Algone is located about 700 meters above the sea level just next to a small mountain rivulet in a shady forest. Crag is not the best option for beginners but for climbers who climb 6a-7b the crag suites well and it has 55 routes to offer. Access to the crag is easy by a car and the parking is just few minutes away from the wall that can be seen from the parking. Approach is not hard but it takes slippery and wet walk over the rivulet. At this time of the year the water was terribly cold like just melted ice, extremely refreshing!

Once we finally passed over to the rivulet to hthe crag we had a sad surprise waiting for us. Most of the lines were still wet from the previous night's rain so Val d'Algone wasn't the best climbing wall for the day. We still decided to check all the routes.

Our conclusion was that the routes seemed demanding and the rock had better grip on the right end of the wall. The left side of the wall was more rounded and partially polished. Most probably polishing is not the fault of climbers but the dripping water that has been smoothing the wall over centuries. In general the crag looks interesting and is worthwhile to visit, just keep in mind that some lines might be hard due the quality of the rock.


Day wasn't still completely wasted, luckily Coltura is just about 5 minutes away from Val d'Algone so we decided to head there. Coltura's main wall is facing most of the day to the sun and the lines nearby the parking are hot. But we noticed that the upper part of the Strada sector  is getting into the shade just at early afternoon. Finally we found a place that was in shade and got some good climbing.

See all photos:

Val d'Algone, Coltura, 30.6.2014

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Sisyphos at Valle dei laghi

View from Sisyphos Towards Lago di Toblino and Toblino castle.

Google's route planner does
not draw the route right.
Route goes through Sarche.

If you have been climbing few days nearby Arco and  already seen the well known crags, such as Nago, Beldevere and Massone it is time to head for new routes and views. Get some fresh rock from Sisyphos. Crag is a good option for medium level climbers. Sisyphos is located at Valle dei Laghi (see also: http://www.valledeilaghi.it) nearby Sarche and it is about 17 kilometers from Arco. Final parts of the approach by car goes on a small dirt road between the wine groves and after that the very final part is on foot and takes about 15 to 20 minutes to the wall.

Crag has 44 routes to offer from 5a to 7c and most of the routes are in the range of 6a to 7b. It is best suited for medium level climbers by offering a great playground, wich is not too crowded. Routes are nice varying climbing on grey and brown limestone rock and the average length of the routes is about 22 meters.

Our day was relative short because of the upcoming evning activities. Still this is defnititely a crag where we want return on next year to test routes that we had to pass due the schedules.

Heta's "tree aided, A0" climbing move.

View to Lago di Toblino.

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