Valle di Rian Cornei - Falesia del silenzio

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Packed climbing crags with loud fellow climbers or a nearby highways are not the best mood makers for demanding climbs.  Silence, that is what we are looking for a climbing holiday and that's what Falesia del silenzio offers. West facing crag has a beautiful view over the valley  and the only sound coming from buzzing bees and signing birds.

Access to the Falecia del silenzio supreme is a 30 minutes walk on a nice surroundings. For some reason we managed to pass it with only one but costly mistake. To avoid our mistake it is recommended to read and understand the approach instructions completely upfront because few of the turns can be misinterpreted. Total length of the approach walk is about 1.5 kilometers mostly on a flat or small uphill ground.

Falesia del silenzio has actually two crags, supreme(upper) and inferiore(lower) sector. We visited on the upper on that has total of 36 (there are few new routes on the right hand side, we hadn't topo guide for those) routes from 5c to 7c average grade of the routes being 6b.  Length of the routes varies between 15 to 25 meters.

Falecia del silenzio upper sector has mostly a good quality rock even thou it has been discovered already in 80's but be careful with overhanging routes, some those are polished and may be hard to climb. Since 80's the crag has been completely re-bolted so the bolts and anchors are in a good shape.

Crag has slabs, vertical and overhanging routes with small pockets like in many other crags in finale. When it comes to grading the routes were demanding for the grade, so be modest when choosing a warm-up routes.

For the autumn climbing crag offered a perfect warm and silent environment for a climbing day. The silence was so overwhelming that it felt like we were the only people at the mountain. Peaceful and tension free crag with mentally and physically demanding routes.

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Finale Ligure,Valle di Rian Cornei, Falesia del silenzio superiore, 31.10.2014

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Valle Aquila - Placca dei Maleducati

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Are you rude? Plate of rude, that is what the name of today's crag roughly stands for. Placca dei Maleducati has a long history starting already from 1980's. For what I have learned old age usually means bad and polished routes in climbing. But the good rock quality is what surprises me on several old crags in Finale. Placca dei Maleducati is not an exception it has good rock quality. 

Placca dei Maleducati is a west facing crag that has total of 58 routes ranging from 5a to 7c and majority of the routes are in the range of 6b-6c. Grade range makes it interesting for medium to higher level climbers. Length of the routes starts from 15 meters and ends up to 30 meters and there are even few multi-pitch sport routes.

When it comes to climbing it is just good to remember that the grading is typical for Finale so pick your warm-up routes carefully. I noticed that on my typical "bread and butter" 6a routes. Routes of the day were actually slightly more demanding than I expected so I had to take few moments hanging on a rope to gain some more strength to "warm-up".

And one thing more about the routes, whenever there is a corner crag just climb it. I did it here  and in few other crags too. I can recommend the classical corner crag line from the right end as a warm-up route. It is not hard nor difficult but just great climbing and the route offers nice exposed view over the valley below, excellent!

Great crag overall, just avoid the first 3 routes from the left end, those are widely bolted and not the best crag can offer.

Good rock quality.

Good rock quality.

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Finale Ligure,Valle Aquila, Placca dei Maleducati, 30.10.2014

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Rocca Carpanea - Parete dimenticata

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If lots of people want to be in a same place at a same time it has to be something good. In every climbing area there are classical crags that are almost must to visit and so is in Finale. Popularity in climbing means usually polished routes but not in our today's target.

Parete dimenticata is not necessary the very best but it is great crag offering total of 48 routes between 15-25 meters long and grade ranging from 5a to 8b. Lots of west facing routes with a relatively short access in about 20 minutes. And as a bonus you can get nice views over Finale and to the Mediterranean sea.

It is actually surprising that the oldest routes in the crag have been created between 1983-1989 with a second round in 1996 and 1997. What surprised me the most is that the rock is still in a good shape and very well climbable. Age of the oldest routes can be seen on the grading and some of the routes are though when compared to expected difficulty. Bolting is generally good but sometimes there are slightly distant bolts for additional excitement. Still no complains.

But being a fabulous crag means popularity and that realized for us. For our surprise the crag was almost full when we arrived. Several groups from Germany and France were already there reserving  the routes. That is not common here especially when crag has 48 routes to climb. Being crowded is not too bad but the common habit of reserving the lines with ropes for all day long wasn't too fun. Still friendliness of few fellows and the slowly diminishing groups of climbers freed us the needed routes before the sunset.

Parete dimenticata is excellent autumn crag just be aware that few others may know that too!

Heta top roping one of the hardest 5c lines.

View over Finale.

Death is among us!

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Finale Ligure,Rocca Carpanea, Parete dimenticata, 28.10.2014

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