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One thing that has been surprising is the weather. We had a luck of getting total of 10 sunny days in a row. Autumn is usually nice here but this has been an extraordinary good period even in the terms of Finale. For the Halloween Saturday we picked a crag with praised surroundings that has routes for beginners to medium level climbers.
Paretina di Pian Marino if part of the huge Rocca Carpanea climbing area. It has total of 41 routes ranging from 4 to 6c and the rock goes from grey and white to red limestone. Surroundings of the crag are excellent for a sunny picnic and the approach in comfortable which makes it a great target for a family climbing day, beginners or for a group of a different levels of climbers.
The left side of the crag is primarily grey limestone with shorter slab routes. The middle and right side of the crag has longer and slightly more demanding 6 graded routes. That side of the crag is also more wild in terms of the rock wall and route types. Steeper routes and rough rock roofs on a white limestone looks actually stunning just before the sunset as the views from top of the longest routes. Grading of the routes is "softer" in the terms of difficulty but few routes are polished. Polishing is still not a major issue here and climbing is enjoyable.
There was a great arete line Gemelli Ribelli which was a excellent warm-up route. When ever you have an opportunity ti climb an arete or a crack corner then just climb it. So far every arete or corner route has been super good in Finale.
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| Finale Ligure, Rocca Carpanea, Paretina di Pian Marino, 1.11.2014 |
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