Via Ape Maia is a very popular 6B multipitch route on San Paolo sector to north of Arco. Since Primi Sogni went so easy, we wanted to bring our multipitch level even higher.
Via Ape Maia facts:
- 4 stars (Sarca Walls, Versante Sud), 3 stars (Summer Spots in Arco, Vertical-life)
- 200 metres 6 (7*) pitches (If you do the last stand 15 meters before the top in the trees)
- 5C, 6B (6A, by pulling the quickdraw)
- S1/II (S1 = Average distance between bolts 3 to 4 meters. Potential length of fall: some meters; fall without danger. = II, Easy-track approach, rather long route, easy down climb)
Google tells that the Via Ape Maia has been climbed quite a lot. We found a lot of images and the route the one, whereto climbers are taken to get a hardcore multipitch climbing experience. Although we didn’t expect so polished and slippery limestone on hardest parts. Since the beginning we were sure that the most of the sceptical climbers have made an exit after first pitch, but unfortunately we were wrong, and the most polished rock was on the most difficult pitches. Luckily we were the only climbers this time on the route, so we could climb at our own pace.
Perhaps our timing for ascent was not optimal (10:00 AM - 2:00 PM), as we were on the wall at noon, the hottest time of the sun, but it didn't bothered us. A couple of hours before would have been probably the best timing. We do not recommend afternoon, because the rock becomes burning hot, even though the route is more on shade side.
Let's get back to beginning, the approach. There are several parking places along the road between crags and the river. We recommend the the one that is closest to the Ceniga intersection (ie, the Sarca River bridge crossing). Then the car is in shade during the ascent and you have the shortest descent to car. You can get into the forest several paths from the main road, you just have choose the right one... ;) Check the route names on the both sides of Via Ape Maia to find the right direction when you face the crag. Unfortunately, the route name is very poorly written on wall, more clearly with red color is written ’Spiderman’ on the left side of the target route. If Via Ape Maia is crowded, Bergsteigen.com recommends next on the right 'Biene Maia’, which is about the same grade as Via Ape Maia.
Via Ape Maia is a real climbing from start to finish and the grades are bit sandbagged. The route is as hard as several single pitch sport routes on the row, or it has got harder due to polishing. On the slab feet are slipping and on overhang your hands are slipping. Ascending requires all the time very high concentration and therefore a lot of power. Fortunately, the most of the anchors are in shade and you can stand there to save energy instead of hanging from harness.
We climbed the route in six pitches, so that Sami led the odd- and Nora led the even-numbered. Sami had the pitches of grades 5C, 6A and the hardest one 6B, Nora had one 5C and two 6A. Sami made so awesome and hard work on his hardest pitch. He really pushed his limits and was totally exhausted after it. The pitch required strength, balance, trust on shoes and hands on the polished limestone and it required especially courage, even though the bolting was very well done. Nora had very hard time when crossing the last overhang of the hardest pitch and continue to the next pitch, where were on friction, no footholds and very tiny handholds. :)
The top anchor belay is done on trees. We recommend that you either use really long slings or build the anchor few meters away from the edge. Descending from Via Ape Maia is very smooth. Follow the narrow path first to other side of the top and then to north and you end up to paved road, which takes you to Sarca river. Next to the bridge you can also jump into to river and cool your swollen toes and fingers and get balsam to your wounded knees.
We managed to climb the route, even if it was the hardest climb ever for both of us. The hardness of the route surpassed all the expectations and still we made it. It was something more than a climb, it was extreme. In addition to stupendous multipitch, we had very good luck with us, when Nora dropped her iPhone from the top, and it was found 15 metres below in the leaf bed without any scratches. A good day, a very good day!!
After a successful multipitch it is very generous to reward yourself with grande cappuccino and ice cream in Arco.
/Sami & Nora
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