torstai 18. kesäkuuta 2015

Aspettando Martino - great warm-up route

Mika Huhtamaki 1.15

Click here if you just want to see the photos

Looking for a quick multipitch climb to warmup and getting up to the speed? Well you have it.

Aspettando Martino offers 6 pitches and 180 meters of fun with an excellent view over the Arco.
We did our 1st accent to Aspettando Martino already a year ago and decided to climb it again as a warm-up because of nice view over the city. Approach to the route is quick from the parking place at the nearby swimming pool. Finding the botto of the route might be slightly challenging for the 1st timers.

Half of the pitches are 5c and the rest from 4a to 5b. Climbing varies nicely between pitches offereing corners, crags and slabs. Bolting is sometimes distant and few bolts should be replaced along the route. Still the overall condition is good.

Aspettando Martino is a popular route and it is partially polished. Still the polished parts do not spoil th route and it is climbable nicely. Experinced granite climbers can actually find lot of good grips from the crags for hand jams.

Exit from the route takes about a 100 meters from the top towards the nearby via ferrata. Exit path is alpine grade III and it is recommended to belay it. It is a good idea to have few cams and extra sling for a running belay to get to the via ferrata. We found cams from 0.5 up to 2 usefull for belaying the exit. Few parts of the route can be secured better with cams. If you are not comfortable with distant bolting the it is recommended to have also cam numbers 3 and 4 with you.

Nice route in a nice surroundings that can be climbed from the car to the top and back in 4.5 hours.