Sguarauunda - the password for a magnificent climbing experience

If the previous multipitch, Perla Nera, was already something extra, how to describe this now? We ended to conquer one additional multipitch route. This time our team was three climbers, when T joined us.
Nora had checked Sarca Walls (2007) guidebook several times before and during the trip, and marked the possible routes to climb. The criteria: bolted route, at least 3 stars, the safety at least of S2, 200 to 300 meters long and descent by walking. Routes were sorted into three categories: yellow = less than 6, an easy one, green = 6A/6B, very appropriate for us and red = 6c/7a, a difficult one. Earlier on this trip, we had already climbed Primi Sogni and Via Ape Maia, which were marked green, in addition the Sguarauunda (at Coste dell'Anglone) had green indicator, even though it has one pitch grade of 6c/6b+.

Facts:

• 5 stars (Sarca Walls)
• 300 meters
• 10 pitches
• 6a, 6c (6a when pulling the quickdraw)
• S2/II (S2 = Distant bolts and compulsory passages from bolt to another. Potential length of fall: 10 meters; fall without danger. Rather II = long route, easy-track approach, rather long, and easy dowmclimb)

Approach instructions were (again) a bit misleading. At Dro, there are at least two sport centers, one in named especially as Sport Center and the other not, it has a name localita' Oltra. We guess that the localita’ Oltra would have been the right one, even if we saw that only from the wall. According to the navigator we found the private parking place of the Sport Center. Fortunately, we noticed cars also in another place, because the private car park was equipped with a gate, and we did not have any idea, if the would be closed until we get back. At last we hit the road by foot to chapel mentioned in the guidebook.

After 4-5 kilometers walking, we finally found the chapel, from where we turned to the path towards the wall. It would have been very convenient if you knew that next to Sguarauunda begins the route named "Heli" (this is not in the 2007 Guidebook). We wouldn’t have visited the Pizzeria crag, to where leads a “path” having grade of four, which we at first ascent and then descent without any belaying of course. The 'Heli’ was very well marked to follow almost already from the chapel. And when we finally reached the right crag, it would have been nice to know which routes are made next to Sguarauunda since 2007… All in all, we found the Sguarauunda after two hours hiking instead of 30 minutes, which was mentioned in the guidebook.

The route followed pretty smooth slab first half of the route. Fortunately, Sami or T passed one belay stand on the slab, or the the route was changed and three pitches were merged to two pitches, due to that we avoided one hanging belay on dark and hot wall under midday sun. We didn’t manage very well in the beginning with the ropes, or the ropes were really bad behaving. They twisted around each other and made huge knots by themselves. Finally we got to the vertical wall, where located also the first standing belay with a shade. What a relief!

There were also sometimes challenges to find the next bolt, because the route had safety grade of S2, which means that bolt spacing is a little longer than S1 graded (the safest) has. Route reading was so complex that Sami missed a bolt and a belay stand and continued one and half pitches until he got lack of quick draws and made a belay on trees. T and Nora also had some hidden bolts, which they missed and led to the next one or directly to an anchor.

On the vertical wall we found lots of loose rocks. T threw few quite big rocks while leading the route, hopefully there were nobody following us on the same or the neighbor routes. Sami got hit by a couple of at least two kilos rocks on his shoulder when ascending the hardest pitch. Miraculously, Sami's grip on the left hand was so strong that he didn’t fall in spite of attack of the stones. There were plenty of slings and strings along the route hanging on bolts. Either climbers have made exit or they have made ascending possible in case of broken or lack of holds. Maybe also the grade has changed during time, when rock and holds have reformed. Between the tufas at the hardest pitch belay stand, there was a box with a notebook and a pencil. It was a pleasure to sign our names and draw the flag of Finland. The notebook was so thick that there was no time to check if there had been marks of other Finns.

After six hours of ascending we topped successfully the Sguarauunda. Yeah!! The view was spectacular and feeling like we had climbed a lot, and there was still a descent to the car. Luckily the instructions were better for descenting than for approaching. At the top, there was clear path to follow to north until the Degli Scaloni-via ferrata (obviously), along which we descented to the same small chapel, from where we started approaching. From the chapel it was still 4-5 kilometers to the car. All in all, the return from the route took an hour. We made a very good decision to move the car to the open spot in the beginning, because the private car park gate was closed.

Also this time we googled the Sguarauunda before, only we found very little information about it. The previous multipitch routes have been very well described at Bergsteigen.com webpages with a detailed drawing of the route, for example, with lengths of pitches and amount of bolts per pitch. In Sarca Walls guidebook this would be good to know information, since current edition does not have those. Summer Sport Arco Guidebook (publisher: Vertical Life) has similar info of the routes than Bergsteigen.com, only including just tens of routes in comparison of 500 in the Sarca Walls. Also approaching maps for crags could be better, including GPS coordinates, compass point and distances, in order to make orienteering to the crags easier.

/Sami & Nora

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Hunting black pearl - Perla Nera multipitch at Monte Colt

As accidentally we topped again one multipitch route. :) We were about to belay Trad Climbing Guru T for one traditional multipitch route until he got an other team mate, so we had to choose another one.

The first option was the Via Lattea, on Monte Colt crag. Length of 120 meters, four pitches, five stars (Sarca Walls Guidebook) and difficulty of 6b. Unfortunately this route is crowded, so we chose the black pearl, Perla Nera, on the other end of the Monte Colt multipitch sector. It is handy to remember almost the whole guidebook, to find a plan B route and avoid the short end of the stick situation. 

Facts:

• 5 stars (Sarca Walls Guidebook)
• 100 meters
• 4 pitches
• 6b (5c pulling the quickdraw)
• S1/I (S1 = Average distance between bolts 3 to 4 meters. Potential length of fall: some meters; fall without danger., I = Short Route, comfortable approach, nice surrounding and easy dowmclimb)

We managed with approach pretty well this time, because the track to Monte Colt follows the same path as the one to Red Point Wall Upper Sector. You just have to continue further over the the top, follow the power line and descent using via ferrata to the crag. The Monte Colt wall is surprisingly long, luckily there are some routes marked on wall to find the right one. There are also some new routes, which are not marked in the Sarca Wall guidebook 2007 version. As we planned to climb Via Lattea, which is the last route on the left, we checked the multipitch sector twice by hiking at first to the left end and then back to the right end to Perla Nera. This time Nora started to lead, to have Sami in action on the second, the hardest (6b), pitch. On the first pitch is said to be easy grade five climbing by guidebook (Sarca Walls, 2007). Ok, there are pretty good hand holds, which are very white, because of chalk, and in addition the profile is overhanging and moves aery. So, we think that the grade is a little sandbagged.

Sami's 6b pitch was quite tough, at first an overhang to cross, then delicate moves on slab to the roof and over it. The grade was very realistic, and perhaps the pitch was even easier than the Via Ape Maia's hardest pitch, if you chose the right line. Although, the route seems to be climbed pretty often, Sami dropped a cluster of rocks on the first overhang. Luckily, the belay stand was under the roof, so Nora was well covered. The third pitch was easy traverse with chimney and pillar topping in the end. The fourth pitch was again real climbing on slab with small foot holds and crimps. Maybe the difficulty was a bit harder than stands (5a/5b) in the guidebook. When Sami started to lead his last pitch, rain shower hit us. Luckily the shower was very light during Sami’s lead, but got harder and colder during Nora’s seconding. Despite the wetness, we didn’t slip and Sami’s last belay stand was in the shade of the trees. It was also very wise to carry raincoat with, like Sami did. Nora suffered her stupidity and got totally wet and cold after topping the route, because the wet shirt does not warm at all, when it winds.

This time Nora didn’t dig her iPhone for photoshoothing as often as before just to diminish drama. ;) When the descent from the top was very smooth and easy path down back to parking place, were both surprise trip and route all in all very successful and enjoyable.

/Sami & Nora

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Escaping the rain to Trento and Muse

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One thing that has been different during this summer is the weather. Everyone who I have met in Arco agrees that they haven't seen a summer like this before. And this is the first time for us too that the weather has been so unpredictable over the last 12 summers at Lake Garda. Unpredictable rains, low temperatures and sudden weather changes are more than common. Cooler temperatures are fine for sports but heavy rain and storms makes almost all outdoor activities hard or hopeless.

Today constant rain changed again our plans and it was time to come up something else to do. After few ideas we decided to head towards Trento. Initial idea was to see the city or some museums. As a city Trento is an interesting mix of the Italian and German cultures. That shows up on the street level clearly on the architecture that changes dramatically between city blocks. But hanging around the city in the rain is not too much fun for long. Luckily we heard a tip from the local climbers at Arco that Trento has a new and impressive museum MUSE - Science Museum so we decided to head down there.

MUSE-museum is located in a fresh and modern building and exhibition covers all the main aspects of the science from biology to electronics. Majority of the exhibition area was dedicated to the massive nature and animals collection from past to present. For outdoor people
the exhibition was impressive, especially the replicas of huge dinosaur skeletons. Modern part of the exhibition is designed around personal experiences, you can lay on a spike mat, test your balance or see a 3D printer in action. That suites well for fellows and families who are not that much into traditional museum tours.

Climber's skeleton.

Among other things alpinism was covered too and of course we saw climbing fashion and gear from 30's to present, oh I miss the lost feeling of the real mountain adventurers. I would be rather
outside in the nature but MUSE was still worthwhile to visit, especially when it rains too much for outdoor activities.

 



 See all photos:

Trento, Muse, 8.7.2014

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Hunt of new walls at Noriglio in Rovereto

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Rovereto offers fresh views and new crags to explore for climbers who are seeking for new walls to conquer. Rovereto is not far away, it takes only 30 minutes by car from Lake Garda. And on top of rock climbing the old city has lot to offer from culture to shopping.

Rovereto has a long history and it is well known from the Peace Bell that has been cast from the bronze of the cannons of the nations that took part of the First World War. Mountain and alpinism has been also part of the heritage which shows also at the nearby Pasubio mountain's fortresses and structures from Word War I. If rock climbing is not enough or unpredictable rain spoils the day there is always something else to do. Day can be easily extended with a city tour, museum visit, winery tour or shopping afternoon.

But our day was dedicated for climbing. Today's target was Noriglio that has about 120 routes in 7 different sectors. Range of the difficulties at the crag vary between 2 to 8 and most of the routes being in the range of 5c to 6c. Approach is easy and short but the wall is hot to climb during summer months.

At Casa al Sole sector majority of the routes are in the range of 6. Rock quality is broken and vertical slab climbing with few overhangs and bulges. Rock is slightly polished on some routes but usually it is not affecting to climbing. Rock has also natural roundness and polished surface because of the dripping water that has smoothed the surface.

In the Casa al Sole sector belayer got nicely into shadows but the wall was facing to the sun for most of  the day. In the late afternoon or early evening the wall turns more into shadow so afternoon climbing is more than recommended during summer. Some of the sectors before the Casa al Sole are completely exposed to the sun and it is a good idea to avoid those during hot days. But for spring and fall climbing Noriglio seems to be perfect.

Routes at the sector are mostly well bolted and few routes were just recently re-bolted. It is still good idea to check the style of bolting because on some older routes the 2nd or 3rd bolt might be too high for completely safe climbing.  Over the day we climbed few 6a and 6a+ routes and one 5c warmup. Overall feeling is that grading is though but mostly fair so prepare for demanding routes.

Noriglio has good routes to offer but it is not the first choise for summer months. Some sectors have shorter routes and you can read more first hand experiences from Sami's & Nora's article.

See all photos:

Rovereto, Noriglio, 6.7.2014

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Via Ape Maia - pushing the limits on hardcore multipitch

Via Ape Maia is a very popular 6B multipitch route on San Paolo sector to north of Arco. Since Primi Sogni went so easy, we wanted to bring our multipitch level even higher.

Via Ape Maia facts:

• 4 stars (Sarca Walls, Versante Sud), 3 stars (Summer Spots in Arco, Vertical-life)
• 200 metres 6 (7*) pitches (If you do the last stand 15 meters before the top in the trees)
• 5C, 6B (6A, by pulling the quickdraw)
• S1/II (S1 = Average distance between bolts 3 to 4 meters. Potential length of fall: some meters; fall without danger. = II, Easy-track approach, rather long route, easy down climb)

Google tells that the Via Ape Maia has been climbed quite a lot. We found a lot of images and the route the one, whereto climbers are taken to get a hardcore multipitch climbing experience. Although we didn’t expect so polished and slippery limestone on hardest parts. Since the beginning we were sure that the most of the sceptical climbers have made an exit after first pitch, but unfortunately we were wrong, and the most polished rock was on the most difficult pitches. Luckily we were the only climbers this time on the route, so we could climb at our own pace. 

Perhaps our timing for ascent was not optimal (10:00 AM - 2:00 PM), as we were on the wall at noon, the hottest time of the sun, but it didn't bothered us. A couple of hours before would have been probably the best timing. We do not recommend afternoon, because the rock becomes burning hot, even though the route is more on shade side.

Let's get back to beginning, the approach. There are several parking places along the road between crags and the river. We recommend the the one that is closest to the Ceniga intersection (ie, the Sarca River bridge crossing). Then the car is in shade during the ascent and you have the shortest descent to car. You can get into the forest several paths from the main road, you just have choose the right one... ;) Check the route names on the both sides of Via Ape Maia to find the right direction when you face the crag. Unfortunately, the route name is very poorly written on wall, more clearly with red color is written ’Spiderman’ on the left side of the target route. If Via Ape Maia is crowded, Bergsteigen.com recommends next on the right 'Biene Maia’, which is about the same grade as Via Ape Maia.

Via Ape Maia is a real climbing from start to finish and the grades are bit sandbagged. The route is as hard as several single pitch sport routes on the row, or it has got harder due to polishing. On the slab feet are slipping and on overhang your hands are slipping. Ascending requires all the time very high concentration and therefore a lot of power. Fortunately, the most of the anchors are in shade and you can stand there to save energy instead of hanging from harness.

We climbed the route in six pitches, so that Sami led the odd- and Nora led the even-numbered. Sami had the pitches of grades 5C, 6A and the hardest one 6B, Nora had one 5C and two 6A. Sami made so awesome and hard work on his hardest pitch. He really pushed his limits and was totally exhausted after it. The pitch required strength, balance, trust on shoes and hands on the polished limestone and it required especially courage, even though the bolting was very well done. Nora had very hard time when crossing the last overhang of the hardest pitch and continue to the next pitch, where were on friction, no footholds and very tiny handholds. :)

The top anchor belay is done on trees. We recommend that you either use really long slings or build the anchor few meters away from the edge. Descending from Via Ape Maia is very smooth. Follow the narrow path first to other side of the top and then to north and you end up to paved road, which takes you to Sarca river. Next to the bridge you can also jump into to river and cool your swollen toes and fingers and get balsam to your wounded knees.

We managed to climb the route, even if it was the hardest climb ever for both of us. The hardness of the route surpassed all the expectations and still we made it. It was something more than a climb, it was extreme. In addition to stupendous multipitch, we had very good luck with us, when Nora dropped her iPhone from the top, and it was found 15 metres below in the leaf bed without any scratches. A good day, a very good day!!

After a successful multipitch it is very generous to reward yourself with grande cappuccino and ice cream in Arco.

/Sami & Nora

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New crag experiences for Sami and Nora - Le Piazzole, Noriglio and Red Point Wall

Arco is a climbing heaven, there is no doubt about it. There is no need to go to the same cliffs as last year, you can find plenty of new stone to finger. Last year we went to twelve different places and only one place (Coltura) we visited twice. All the crags were good in a way. This year we scouted 23 new sectors or crags to check out. Until now, we have surveyed two of them and a third came from the Garda Trentino Climbing Guide, which have also our recommendation. Of course, on the page of Calvario, where our climbing wedding pics are taken.

New crags:
Le Piazzole is high up, at 550 meters, which means long hiking to reach the place. The place is relatively new and therefore there is a lovely friction, on most of the routes. At the first visit, there was time to test only a couple of the routes on the right side of the crag, before the rain hit us and we were forced to leave. The place made so big impression, that we decided to do the hiking soon again.

'Best of Arco' guide says that the approach will take 25 minutes. At the first time we used 35 min and on the second time 30 min. So, there is some improvement, but still you have to reserve time for approaching, only you get a very intense warm-up. The track is mostly hidden by trees, in shade, but still there is very warm on sunny days. Our experience on second visit was that there is totally different kind of stone, profile and route grading on the left side of the crag, except the routes on the left edge. The routes of queens and kings are overhanging, slippery and very intense with delicate moves. So, the ‘Gardatrentino' and ‘Arco2011’, the 6B routes on slabby wall and with friction, were sent onsight, but Dmitry, Anna and Qixin beated us, even if they are graded 6A/6A +.

'Arco Walls’ guidebook does not have Le Piazzole at all. And in the' Best of Arco' guidebook is not mentioned the lengths of routes on the right sector. That tells how new the place is and how fresh is the friction there. Lengths of the routes on right sector are mentioned in the board on place and in the Gardatrentino Climbing Guide. The left sector offers shade for belayer before noon and the right sector in afternoon. The left sector is also more open and mild wind refreshes climbers. We did not visit at all the central sector, because there are only above seven graded routes. Maybe next year. :)

Noriglio is in Rovereto, which is some distance from Arco (about 30km). The approach instructions to crag are quite reasonable, but there is also huge opportunity to miss the paved road to the left. Before the orange house on the left, turn sharply left to the paved road, even if it looks like to end up to closed port.


Noriglio is an old place and the route grading follows the same style. Either the routes have become more challenging by climbing or route grading has been tighter in past. Sure, we climbed shorter (10m) routes on sector C in 'Best of Arco' guidebook and the upper right side of the D-sector, but the similar grades have been beaten already this year. The place was ok, but not worth of second visit, even if there are longer routes on the other sectors.

Red Point Wall is totally worthy of the name! In spite of, Sami onsighted and Nora flashed one 6a route on the Upper sector of ‘Arco rock’ guidebook. Red Point Wall offers intensive projecting on overhanging wall with hidden holds and athletic moves, and if you have power enough, rewarding sending. We had power enough only for one struggling per route. On the right at Upper-sector, there is some differing in grading with guidebooks. The route was told to be 6A+ or 6B, but it felt at least 6B+ or even harder. Still, the Red Point Wall is worth of experience, at least we made real climbing moves, we crimped, cranked, hooked, dynoed and all the other miracles to get higher. Pretty tight set for a day off...

We warmly recommend Le Piazzole of these new experiences, even though we hardly hike there third time on this trip. Noriglio did not seem to be a pleasant place, too old style and too much climbed and hot, even if the belayers are in shade. Red Point Wall was a something totally different and very interesting place to earn some sent routes, because you’ll really have to push hard to beat them.

/Sami & Nora

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Untouched rock wall at le Piazzole

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Quality of the rock is continuous subject of speculation for climbers. Over the recent years we have seen a lots of different quality rock in Italy, mostly in the Lake Garda and nearby valleys. Usually climbers have been commenting the rock quality of Arco in negative light. Mostly because they have been visiting only old, legendary and thus polished crags. Luckily that is not the whole truth, far from it. The best limestone we have ever climbed is in le Piazzole at Arco.

Imagine a limestone wall with excellent grip and without any chalk markings. All routes are waiting for climbers to explore the possible and impossible holds and steps. Essence of the rock climbing comes from the evaluation of an untouched rock face and finding the proper holds. This is what le Piazzole currently offers. On top of that all the routes are bolted extremely well and safely. Of course all the surroundings and belaying points were perfectly placed. Excellent work from the "Outdoor Park Garda Trentino" project, way to go.


The crag has total of 22 routes from grades 5c to 7b, half of the routes being 6a and b. With the current routes the crag offers a great playground for 6a - 7b grade climbers. Over the climbing day we tested several 6a and 6b routes, all were in a great shape. While our visit at the crag we noticed that  the project was still going on. Several ungraded project lines were waiting beyond the right side of the wall. So we may expect more excellent climbing coming up in following years.


Le Piazzole is an excellent example of the endless climbing opportunities of the Garda region. There is still lots of great walls and routes to be found. And when visiting at the area it pays to read the climbing maps and find alternative crags instead of the legendary walls. The only downside is a relative long approach and that the wall is facing south-east. Great crag, worthwhile to visit several times!
  

See all photos:

Arco, le Piazzole, 1.7.2014

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Primi Sogni -multipitch at Monte Colodri (South Face)

As a result of very successful multipitch (Amazzonia) last year, we planned to do a couple of multipitches this year. The first was carried out on the fourth climbing day, and the first, when the forecasts were more dry than rainy. 

The route called "Primi Sogni” at Monte Colodri South Face won the lottery (The Sarca Walls guide book) and was selected to be experienced.

Primi Sogni:

• 3 stars 
• 180 meters
• 5 pitches 5C, 6A (5C pulling the quickdraw) 
• S2/II (S2 = moderate bolt spacing and the maximum drop of 10 meters without any risk, II = easy to approach and exit, rather route)

The route description told that a couple of small friends come in handy along on third pitch. By googling we found more detailed route description and the sizes of friends (Bergsteigen.com). The German topo also recommends small nuts for the fourth pitch. Anyway I warmly recommend googling the chosen route, if you need more detailed information. There are some kind climbers to tell tips for approach, route and / or descent. Fortunately, Mika had packed the set of cams and nuts with, and he borrowed them us.

According to the instructions the car was parked at the Swimming Pool parking. I do not know whether the approaching instructions were difficult to read, or the readers made a mistake, but we didn’t find directly to the start of the route. "Leave the ferrata at the first wide bend and continue to the foot of the leaning slabs." Means that follow the via ferrata (Dei Colodri) about 50 meters to the first sharp turn to left and continue straight on the path to the first bolt.

The first pitch, Sami lead: 50 meters, the difficulty Bergsteigen.com 3, 4 -, 4 - (Sarca Walls 3a) The gentle slab, easy ramps, with well spaced. Continue over the first double bolts 12 meters up and left to the actual anchor. The second pitch, Nora lead: 53 meters, the difficulty of 4, 4, 5 - (5a, 5b) A similar slab than on the first pitch, leaning slab, just more on friction. At the end when facing the vertical wall, turn sharply to the left to find the anchor even if the bolts are shown higher on left. The extended quick draws are recommended to avoid rope drag.

The third pitch, Sami' lead: 35 meters, the difficulty of 5, 5, 6 (5c, 6a) Finally the was some real climbing. A nice flake to layback or climb over. Sami used the red camalot (0.75) in the beginning of the flake, and a little higher up a couple of small nuts (DMM 1 and 2). Sami would have used a camalot more in the end of flake, but he didn’t have small enough. The fourth pitch, Nora lead: 32 meters, difficulty 6, 5+, 5+ (5c, 6a) Again, this pitch included some real climbing. A smooth dihedral with jugs on the right and good friction for feet. The anchor on terrace behind the trees was a pleasure. A extended quickdraw recommended for the last bolt to avoid 90- degree angle on rope. There was no need for nuts, bolting was very nice on the whole pitch.

The fifth pitch, Sami lead: 38 meters, the difficulty of a 5-, 6+, 5+, 5 (6a, 6a) Definitely the most challenging, but also the most rewarding pitch. First, a tight overhang and then a bottleneck. Sami missed a bolt next to the roof, so he used a camalot (0.75) to avoid falling below the roof. Also in the end of the last dihedral Sami set a camalot (1) into the crack, when it was a bit challenging to move on from the dihedral to slab.

Sami led us to the exit of Dei Colodri -via ferrata. From the top of the route go left to the path of via ferrata and turn right to a small white stoned path. The path leads to the Laghel church, where from follow the road first to the Arco Castle and then to "Ritorno di Arco’ and you enter directly to the Arco square. After the well-earned ice cream and a cup of cappuccino follow the river north back to the Swimming Pool car park. On the way to car enjoy the wall you just topped.

The route was definitely worth experiencing, and we made it very smoothly. The anchors had two bolts and nose rings, it was easy to built a stand. Bolting was very safe, excluding the pre mentioned part on the third pitch. It was really wise to use your own pieces, although it was not difficult climbing. We strongly recommend ‘Primi Sogni', and now start the lottery again for the next ascent!

/Nora and Sami

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