Switch from ice to rock faces at Regina del Lago

After four days of ice climbing and two days of snowboarding it was time to switch the mode from ice to rock. This time of the year is a perfect for longer rock climbing routes to we headed down to Sarca valley and Arco.

After the longer ice climbing routes we decided to start with shorter 110 meter routes at Regina del Lago. Regina's Prima Fascia sector has great 4-6 pitch long routes with quick approach and easy exit. And actually after climbing a longer route you have three good option, head to the sport sectors, continue longer lines at the Regina del Lago C-sector or just walk down and start the next route.

This is the second time at the Prima Fascia sector and today we climbed two 6a lines, Via Settimo Cielo and Via Messalina. Both routes were enjoyable to climb and the belay stations were relaxed with excellent view over the valley below and Lake Garda.

Prima Fascia sector has 20 know routes and we also found some fresh ones too. Majority of the routes are bolted during last 5 to 10 years. But be aware some of them have trad pitches in the middle and few of the routes are complete alpine graded. I was also surprised about the wide range of grades in the routes. Easiest ones start from 5b and most difficult ones go as high as 7b. A great range of difficulties for a one sector.

After the 2nd visit at this sector I'm convinced that this is the best part of the Regina del Lago crag.

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Regina del Lago - multipitch routes, 23.3.2016

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Colfosco and Pissadù ice fall

Colfosco ice falls are below the great vertical faces of Sassongher and Sass de la Crusc. What a spectacular environment for climbing ice falls!

The approach to the ice falls is only 30 minutes. It is actually a short time to enjoy the surrounding views. Every step you take the mountains around you reminds how small humans are. A good reminder for a humble attitude.

But the climbing is good too. During this time of the year the ice fall was still in a good condition which is not necessarily the case every spring. The Pissadù ice fall has 3 logical pitches which make a total of 90 meters of climbable ice. Grade is not too hard 3+ and it is in shadow for most of the day.

The nature of the climb is a small adventure in a deep valley. Enjoyable and easy to access makes this ice fall a good reason to visit Colfosco. Climbing ice in a place like this makes us humble. Mi piace!

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Colfosco and Pissadù ice fall, 21.3.2016

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More fresh snow at Val di Fassa and Belvedere - Passo Pordoi

Val di Fassa seems to have a great spring this year. While the snow dumps have been slowing up our ice climbing the snowboarding has been a pure joy. Of course some of the easy off pistes have been skied so that there is nothing left, but there was still plenty for us too.

Today we had the most spectacular view over Dolomites. The highest peak at the nearby area is he Sass Pordoi, 2950 meters. It is accessible via cable car and can be skied down. Magnificent views! A worthwhile Refugio to visit and have a coffee.

After all we got a pretty good impression of the Val di Fassa. Of course if you are hunting for lots of black slopes then this is not the best choice. But for the regular skiers, snowboarders or off piste skiers Val di Fassa has a lot to offer.

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Val di Fassa and Belvedere - Passo Pordoi, 20.3.2016

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Santa Cristina and Cascata Tervela

Today's new ice fall to discover is in Val Gardena and Santa Cristina. Cascata Tarvela is a true drive in ice fall. Walk from the parking to the ice fall takes only 5-10 minutes. 

Great ice fall that is quite easy to see from the city. It offers 1-2 pitch climbs on a varying grade from WI3 to WI4+. It is an ideal place to get used to the Dolomite ice and for the days when you don't want to take the long approaches.

The view over the city of Santa Cristine is also splendid during the spring. The opposite side of the city is almost clean form the snow while you can still climb on a ice fall. Big contrast!

For us the day at the Cascata Tervela offered a good opportunity to climb several single pitch climbs and get prepared for the next multi pitch. Good day and a great reason to see Santa Cristina.

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Santa Cristina and Cascata Tervela, 19.3.2016

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Fresh snow at Val di Fassa - Ciampac - Buffaure

Spring and fresh snow is not a guaranteed combination in the southern alps and Dolomites. But for some reason we have been lucky with the snow conditions for several times in a row. Our first snowboarding day at the Val di Fassa was blessed with good snow and a perfect weather to enjoy it! 

Val di Fassa is part of the huge Dolomite Super Ski resort but it is a nice and a big resort as is! Resort offers enough pistes for a 4-6 days of skiing or snowboarding.

The skiing resorts at the Dolomite mountains seem to share the same slope characteristics. Lots of good red lines and just few black ones with plenty of easy access off piste skiing for all skill levels. And the facilities in general are very good starting from the beginner slopes, snow parks and ending up to the lifts and restaurants.The specialty at the Dolomite Super Ski is the six days ski tour over the Dolomite mountains or if that is too long then you can always take the one day tour over the Val di Fassa.

We didn't took the ski tour today but instead of that we found lots of easy to access off-piste routes with untouched snow. Great day in a beautiful mountain scenery!

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Val di Fassa and Ciampac - Buffaure, 17.3.2016

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Cascata di Fontanazzo di destra - ice screw tested!

Time for an ice fall multi-pitch climb. Our target was in just behind of the small village Fontnazzo - Cascata di Fontanazzo di destra or Bus de Tone as locals call it. Climb follows a small creek that that connects a sequence of 5 ice falls into a nice multi-pitch graded WI4.

 Approach to the climb takes about 30 minutes from the parking just next to the little bridge near a kids playground just behind Fontanazzo village. Right spot is easy to recognize because the alternative climb Cascata di Fontanazzo di sinistra shows on the forest face.

Approach was slightly harder due the fresh snow but nothing overwhelming there. This time of the year the first pitch started from an open creek so getting wet would have been easy.

The 250 meter long route is mostly WI3 and only the last pitch is getting harder. But it does not mean that it is a walk in the park. The amount of snow was the hardest part and opening the ice was energy consuming duty for the leader.

The fresh snow was also causing the first serious danger during our winter holiday. On the 1st pitch the snow packed so that the grip to the ice was partially lost when screwing the second protection. The axe and crampons failed at a same time. That caused an upside down fall towards the creek. Luckily the screw hold and the bones and muscles did not got any hits from axe or screws! Ice climb leader must not fall!

Rest of the route went without any "close call" situations and we were able to enjoy the dolomite winter on its best!

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Cascata di Fontanazzo di destra, 16.3.2016

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Serrai di Sottoguda

Finally we got back to Italy and this time for a winter holiday. Early spring in the Dolomites is not necessarily the best season for ice climbing or skiing on powder but as usual we got lucky. During the last weeks the weather has been great and it has been snowing some fresh powder too.

Our 1st target was to go to Serrai di Sottoguda which is a perfect place for easy to approach ice climbing. It is probably the most visited site in the region too. We started our trip with guide friend Alessandro from Mountime to get our skills polished and to gain some knowledge from the local ice falls and their conditions at this time of a year.

Deep valley at Serrai di Sottoguda is nicely in the shadows. This shady valley lets the ice falls last longer during the sping and gives an opportunity to climb relatively safely even during mid March. Some of the routes like Excalibur starts on top of a small creek but even then the access of the routes is super easy.

Valley has a nice set of different ice falls in length and difficulties. During the climbing it is a good to remember that the path at the valley is also a popular skiing path so beware of skiers. Over the day we got lots of skiers watching our climbs and they even wanted to take photos with us. I didn't knew that few amateur ice climbers and a guide can attract more than 15 people just watching!

During the first day we climbed several single pitches and 3 pitches of la Diagonale and 1st 40 meter pitch of the Excalibur. It was also nice to see that most of the routes have also bolted anchors.

Skiers looking at the climbers!

Mika's WI4 top pitch at the Diagonale

Climber's view on WI4 top pitch at the Diagonale

Top view over the canyon.

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Serrai di Sottoguda,15.3.2016

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