Dolomitic limestone at Molveno

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Our journey to find shady crags good quality rock to climb carries on. So far we have been lucky with our picks and most of the carefully selected crags have been enjoyable. Today's pick was Molveno S. Antonio nearby the Brenta Dolomites a crag that is dedicated to the memory of local alpinist Luca Sartori.

Molveno is an east facing crag taking 50 minutes from Arco by car. It is located at a high altitude of a
900 meters above sea level so it is well climbable during hot summer days. It is one of the alpinist style of crags like Coltura and Croz de la Niere. You can almost taste the golden age of alpinism at Molveno where Brenta Dolomites are dominating the skyline.

When it comes to the climbing Molveno the limestone is more compact and Dolomite's style here. Crag looks good on paper. Total of 47 lines starting from 4 and going up to 7c and most of the lines are more than 20 meters long.

Rock face looks actually good and the styles of the line have definitely some character. But then the downside. It looks like that all the local climbers and growing young alpinists have been training a lot here. Many lines were polished from the beginning thou there were also better quality lines. And at the same time bolting was distant in most of the lines. Distant bolting on a slippery rock makes the 1st few clips hard on some of the routes.

Not an easy crag due the distant bolting and polished rock. Sad because crag has great potential to be interesting challenge. It is not a must place to visit but if you happen to be nearby or just want to get a shady crag then you may want to check it out.

Crag grade: 3/5
Rock quality: 3/5
Bolting: 3/5
Surroundings: 5/5
Approach: 4/5

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Molveno S. Antonio, 28.6.2015

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Trekking at Brenta Dolomites

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Sometimes when the weather gets just too hot in Arco and it is better to head up to the breathtaking Dolomites and enjoy one of the most beautiful mountain landscapes in the world. Today we had such a day with a perfect bright blue sky to have a visit in one of the rare natural heritage locations.

Madonna di Campiglio and Brenta Dolomites are only 70 kilomiters and 1,5 hours away from Arco so driving there takes time but is reasonable for a day trip.

To speed up our schedules and to maximize the time at the top we took the ski lift from Madonna di Campiglio to the top Rifugio Stoppani. Our goal was to have a half a day trekking at paths leaving from the rifugio. At the same time we had excellent opportunity to scout the snow conditions between the the Pietra Grande and Cima del Groste peaks and find the entry points of the nearby via ferratas.

There are numerous excellent ferratas at the Brenta area and two of them can be easily accessed from and to Rifugio Stoppani. The first one of them is easy but breathtaking ferrata Sentiero Gustavo e Natale Vidi. It can be completed from the Rifugio Stoppani to the Rifugio Groste and then to the middle lift station in about 3 hours. During the time of our visit ferrata was completely accessible without snow gear.

Sentiero Alfredo Benini is 2nd alternative for a one day session from Rifugio Stoppani to Rif. Tuckett and then back to Rif. Stoppani that can be completed in about 6 hours. Sentiero Alfredo Benini is more demanding but still relatively easy ferrata. During the time of our visit it was partially covered by snow and crampons are usually recommended for the route.

What can I say, we had an excellent half a day trekking session in a breathtaking scenery! Definitely recommended and just remember to have a camera with you when visiting the region!

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Brenta Dolomites, 26.6.2015

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Via Ferrata Monte Albano is open again

Via Ferratas offers a quick and nice way to enjoy great views and heights without too much of a hassle. Instead of a multipitch climbing we decided to take a break from the normal routines and head to the Via Ferrata Monte Albano - Ottorini Marangoni. 

Monte Albano's ferrata has a respectable reputation but it has been closed since 2011. Luckily the
long maintenance project has been finally completed and route has been re-opened recently. We have been actually waiting several years to get there and now finally we got the long waited opportunity in our hands.

Route has been told to be the hardest outside higher Dolomite mountains by offering lots of open air. Route's grade is the hardest even it is only 350 meters long. Highest altitude at the end of the route is around 600 meters and the estimated time to complete the route is 4-5 hours including ascent and exit.

It seems that the route has been improved a lot during the maintenance and some of the old route
descriptions are not valid anymore. At the same time the surroundings have been improved too and there is an excellent boulder park with picnic tables and a public toilet just a few hundred meters before the ferrata.

For me it looked like that the beginning the route has been secured better than before as well are the airy traverses. Overall safety of the route is now in an good level. That may have turn the route slightly easier than before but we are not speaking about a Sunday walk here!

Route has splendid and exposed traverses what it has been known for. Lots and lots of open air around while traversing over the city of Mori makes this legend worthwhile to be experienced. And this route is not for a first timers. Having a good head for exposed rock walls and heights and some stamina is required.

We completed the route in about four hours and it could be completed even faster if you don't spend too much time for taking photos like we did. Recommended definitely!

Ferrata grade: 5/5
Route quality: 5/5
Security: 4/5
Surroundings/views: 5/5
Approach: 5/5
Exit: 5/5


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Monte Albano - Ottorini Marangoni, 25.6.2015

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Great Pian del Levro at Rovereto

Fresh rock expedition goes on. This time our journey headed towards Rovereto and Pian del Levro which is also suitable for family picnics. It takes about 45 minutes from Arco to the parking so we are not speaking about a very distant location. 

Pian del Levro is at 700 meters above the sea level and the bottom of the crag is nicely in shadow so
it is perfect choice for hot summer days. Approach from the parking takes about 5 minutes and 40 meters uphill on an easy trekking path. Excellent!

Crag is facing south-west and it has total of 31 routes graded from 3 up to 7c. Majority of the routes are in the range of 6 but there is respectable eight routes in the range of 7. More demanding routes are on the yellow limestone and that part of the wall is not completely in shadow so be aware during hot days.

Most of the routes are long, more than 20 meters on a grey and yellow limestone. Longest routes requires 70 meters rope so we are speaking about respectable lengths. Rock quality is almost perfect and overall condition of the routes is good. Bolting is in standard distance and secure. Small detail is that the bolt distance on easy routes may be too far for the small kids or inexperienced climbers.

Route styles varies from slabs, vertical walls to overhangs and dihedrals. Enough of variance for a one day climbing session. During the day we found a definite gem among the routes. Try the route "Pit stop" which is graded 6a+ and is 28 meters long. A nice warm-up for better climbers or a nice challenge for medium level climbers.

Surroundings are good and secure on a partially steep forest. And if you have very young climbers then the nearby water pools might be interesting to visit.

Again we found a crag that is worthwhile to visit and offers great challenges for a one or two day sessions. Recommended if you prefer good quality rock and want to climb during hot summer days.

Crag grade: 5/5
Rock quality: 5/5
Bolting: 4/5
Surroundings: 4/5
Approach: 4/5

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Pian del Levro, Rovereto, 24.6.2015

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Moon bears on the wall of Limarò in Sarche

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Looking for a great 9 pitches 1/2 day climb on a nice environment and with a 5 minutes approach. Well you have it. Piccolo Dain and the wall of Limarò in Sarche offers several great 9-11 pitch routes for a relaxed multipitch adventure.

We have been climbing at the wall before. Two years ago our crew topped Amazzonia (5c, 2005) and Orizzonti Dolomitici (5b, 2003). We liked the wall back then and so we decided to climb the Moon Bears route (5c, 2011).

Route is relatively new, it has been bolted between autumn 2010 and spring 2011 by Ermanno Salvaterra and Michel Ghezzi. It has total of 9 pitches and 2 of them are 5c. What makes this route special is the long dihedral-crack where the 5c pitches are. This dihedral makes the line logical and easy to follow and enjoyable to climb.

Bolting is good standard for multipitch routes but there are still few harder clips at the 5c pitches. All the anchor stands are also big enough for enjoyable belaying  which shows excellent design of the route.

Overall rock quality is good and the route is not polished. Few holds at the crux pitches are slightly polished but that doesn't make the climb any harder. First two easy 3a and 4a pitches are obviously more polished because the Amazzonia and Orizzonti Dolomitici share the first two pitches with Moon Bears.

Exit from the Moon Bears goes via traversing path through the woods towards easterly direction. Some parts of the path has via ferrata which helps with the narrow steps leading down to the Sarche.

Easy access, well thought line and a decent exit makes this route an excellent and relaxed to climb. Just try to avoid during the hot summer days when the wall is facing the sun most of the time. Recommended during cloudy summer days of during spring and autumn.

Crag grade: 4/5
Rock quality: 4/5
Bolting: 4/5
Surroundings/view: 4/5
Approach: 5/5
Exit: 3/5

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Moon Bears, Piccolo Dain, 22.6.2015

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More fresh rock from Tione

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Hunt for the fresh rock goes on. Results of the hunt are astonishing and yet another hidden gem has been found. This time our climbing picnic headed to the small city Tione that is located halfway between Madonna di Campiglio and Arco.

Some may think that Tione's  climbing crag is a bit too far from Arco and thus won't bother to visit there. But long distance is only half of the truth. It is true that driving there takes 45 minutes and 41 kilometers from Arco but once car has been parked you are only 3-5 minutes away from the crag. So the total time to get there and climb is about 50 minutes which is reasonable especially due the easy access.

Tione is a east facing wall located at 580 meters which makes it a good afternoon crag during hot summer days. It has total of 24 lines starting from 4a and ending up to one 7a route and most of the routes being at the range of 6. Grade range makes it perfect for beginner to medium level climbers. Lenght of the routes from 13 meters up to 20 meters making the lines long enough for hard continous lines.

Bolting is excellent but the best part is the rock quality that is practically untouched on most of the routes. Grip was amazing and the enjoyment to climb on fresh and unmarked limestone is rare. Styles of the routes varies from slabs to overhangs, arêtes and roofs. I was a bit surprised to see how such a small amount of routes can have such a different types of climbs.

Surroundings were well put together. Wooden steps, bench and nice green field makes this a perfect even for a family picnic. Well equipped!

Conclusion is clear. A definite place to visit if fresh 6 graded lines are your beef!

Crag grade: 5/5
Rock quality: 5/5
Bolting: 5/5
Surroundings: 4/5
Approach: 5/5


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Tione, 21.6.2015

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Aspettando Martino - great warm-up route

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Looking for a quick multipitch climb to warmup and getting up to the speed? Well you have it.

Aspettando Martino offers 6 pitches and 180 meters of fun with an excellent view over the Arco.
We did our 1st accent to Aspettando Martino already a year ago and decided to climb it again as a warm-up because of nice view over the city. Approach to the route is quick from the parking place at the nearby swimming pool. Finding the botto of the route might be slightly challenging for the 1st timers.

Half of the pitches are 5c and the rest from 4a to 5b. Climbing varies nicely between pitches offereing corners, crags and slabs. Bolting is sometimes distant and few bolts should be replaced along the route. Still the overall condition is good.

Aspettando Martino is a popular route and it is partially polished. Still the polished parts do not spoil th route and it is climbable nicely. Experinced granite climbers can actually find lot of good grips from the crags for hand jams.

Exit from the route takes about a 100 meters from the top towards the nearby via ferrata. Exit path is alpine grade III and it is recommended to belay it. It is a good idea to have few cams and extra sling for a running belay to get to the via ferrata. We found cams from 0.5 up to 2 usefull for belaying the exit. Few parts of the route can be secured better with cams. If you are not comfortable with distant bolting the it is recommended to have also cam numbers 3 and 4 with you.

Nice route in a nice surroundings that can be climbed from the car to the top and back in 4.5 hours.

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Arco, Aspettando Martino, 18.6.2015

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Get up and climb on a fresh rock face

Being an iconic and popular climbing center has its downfall. Climbing on a fresh rock is not the expectation for most of the fellow climbers who visit in Arco. That might be true if you just hang on the crags next to the nearest buss stop. But there is still plenty of fresh and good rock even nearby the city if you just know where from to look at. 

For the summer season opening and the 1st climbing day we chose our last years's favorite Le Piazzole which is not included in the older climbing guidebooks and thus unknown for the masses. It is partially maintained by the Project Outdoor Park Garda Trentino. 

Crag is at 530 meters from the sea level and facing to the south-east  making it perfect for a late afternoon climbing sessions. What makes climbing excellent here is the fact that you completely on your own when climbing. No chalk marks nor polished holds screaming the way up and over the next crux. Bolting and anchors are excellent and the surroundings are well taken care of. Approach is not short when compared to other crags nearby but still reasonable 250 vertical meters and 25 minutes walk from the parking. 

Oh and about the grades, you can pick lines from 5b up to 7b from varying length of 12 to 22 meters.

And how was our climbing, well we got lucky the weather was partially clouded and the temperature was around 26 celcius degrees, perfect for summer climbing and for a season opening. Total of 6 ascents wasn't too bad as a starter.



Crag grade: 5/5
Rock quality: 5/5
Bolting: 5/5
Surroundings: 4/5
Approach: 3/5

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Arco, le Piazzole, 17.6.2014

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Return to Arco 2015

Ciao! Summer is here again and we are back on the rock. Some trip we had from Helsinki to Arco, 2600 kilometers by car. Happy to be back in Trentino and to discover new climbing and mountain biking challenges from Brenta Dolomites to Monte Baldo. And all rock is not polished, there is still fresh faces waiting to be found.

See the route>>

See our trip in a brief video!

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