Rocca di Perti - a huge playground

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Rocca dei Perti has something for every climber, mountain has crags from sport climbing to multi-pitch walls. Region has total of 19 crags in a relatively small area and approaches from two main entry points. Longest multi-pitch routes are longer than 100 meters and there are lot of long sport routes too. Rocca di Perti has enough routes to offer for a whole summer holiday from beginner to higher level climbers. The only downside is that the nearby motorway A10 causes some background noice on few sectors.

Approeach to the crag goes next to Mediterranean Sea.

Yesterday's visit to Rocca dei Perti was cut short due the rain so we decided to head back. Our crag for the day was Falesia dei tre porcellini (cliff of three little pigs). Crag has total of 32 routes from 5a to 6b+ and a lot of them are longer than 20 meters. Routes are recently and well bolted and it is offering a good selection of lines for a medium level climber. Several of the lines are multipitch routes (2-3 pitches). Routes are mainly slabs with crags with few corners (arêtes). Rock quality is good and not polished so even the hardest 6b slabs are in excellent condition.

Nice, approach via palm streets.

During the day we climbed total of 6 routes Heta's 5b, two 5c and 6a routes and one 6b route. All climbed routes were well graded, enjoyable and offering enough challenge for the given grades. Most enjoyable climbs for the day were Topo Gas Gas 5c - nice slab moves and an overhanging section, Biancanave - short 6a arête and Pinoccio - short 6b slab with few reaches on small fingery holds.

Falesia dei tre porcellini, great crag for 5 to 6b+ climbers on good quality rock, recommended.

View from the top.

Mediterranean Sea can be seen from the top.

Enjoyable 5c slab.

Enjoyable 5c slab.

Enjoyable 5c slab hold.

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Finale Ligure, Falesia dei Tre Porcellini, 30.9.2013

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Back to the rocks, Finale Ligure

Route from railway station to Rocca dei Perti.

If you just want to see the photos then click here. 

Back to Italy, its time to climb again. This time our destination is Finale Ligure that is located next to the Rock of Caprazoppa mountain in Liguria. Old city is well known of its sand beaches and the steep mountain walls rising from the sea.

Climbing has also long traditions in the area of Finale. Oldest known route in the area are from 1928 at Perti - Versante Nord, routeVia dello spigolo. But the whole area became more known a way later when Alessandro Grillo started to establish new routes during 70's. He is the climber who introduced the region to the public and made it popular by publishing writing articles.

Heta posing in fron of the Rocca dei Perti. Sun is still shining.

But back to the present. Our adventure in Finale started on Saturday 28 of September when we arrived to Milan and drove 220 kilometers to the Finale Ligure.

Weather forecasts predicted rain for the first full day Sunday and our expectations were low for the first day. When the sun rised the weather outside was as forecasted, rainy. But just after the noon the sky turned suddenly blue from the sea and we decided to take a quick warmup at the nearby Rocca dei Perti's Falecia dei tre porcellini crack.

There were other fellow climbers.

Finale is known to have difficult routes so we took an easy warmup. Once I was at the top the skyline started to look dark and rainy. And when Heta's turn came to climb as a second then it started to rain again. Rain got harder the higher Heta climbed. Once at the top the rain was beating us on at full tilt.

We packed our soaking wet climbing gear into the bags and rushed quickly back to our car. And once there we were wet from top to bottom. Let's see if we are lucky enough to get our gear dry enough for tomorrow.

First day, one route and two ascent.

View from the top towards A10 motorway.

After the rainy climb.

See all photos:

Finale Ligure, Falesia dei Tre Porcellini,9.29.2013

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