San Siro, high end climbing

San Siro offers great views and demanding climbing over Valle dei laghi. Location of the crag is perfect and the approach is easy with a walk of 5 minutes from the parking. Routes can be climbed even when other crags are too hot and it offers a good shadow for the belayer. This is definitely a place for higher end climber since there are only 3 routes below 6 and there is total of 84 routes to go. Most of the routes are from 6c to 7c and the length of the routes varies between 15 to 30 meters.

Difficulty of the routes offers great challenges for medium to higher leverl climbers. But what bothers is that majority of the mid level routes are polished. Event the 7 graded routes seemed to have same problems and thus routes can be even more difficult that the actual grade states. If you have been at Massone then you know what to expect. Higher end routes of San Siro are not necessarily that badly polished but the routes  from 5-6 seemed to be slippery.

Massone and San Siro have similiar rock type but Massone's low to mid graded routes offer more opportunities than San Siro. For higher (>7) level climbers San Siro might be a good option with great overhanging walls, but still be prepared for polished rock. Still shape of the overhanging walls is great and the style of the routes is interesting. For higher end climber San Siro has a lot to offer but there are better crags for medium level climbers to climb.

Nice views.

Medium routes are polished.

Comfortable place with easy approach.

Read More

0

Footsteps of a legend - Coltura

Climbing has grown and evolved during the last century dramatically from traditional alpinism to sport climbing. Coltura is one part of that history which can be seen still in the style of the crag and one other remarkable aspect of the place is that the legendary alpinist Marino Stenico (1916 -1978) used to train his grand climbs here.

Somehow Coltura has still a small breathe of alpinism left, rough and untouched rock wall that it surrounded by green fields and small villages. And Climbing is not all that Coltura has to offer. There is a medieval phantom village Irone - Iron nearby the crag. Iron is a Medieval village that was completely decimated by the plague in 1630 and the layout of the village is still intact.

Majority of the routes are multipitches and difficulty is from medium to high. Nice detail is that the high quality of the rock makes routes accessible also for level 5 climbers.

So far when compared to other crags the feel of the rock has been best in here Cultura.  Here you do not need to worry about polished

Coltura Sector D.

limestone like in many other crags in the region. And the last bonus, this is a total drive-in and climb crag. Parking is convinient just below the main wall. Location is also suitable for families because of pleasant environment, picnic tables and peacefull atmosphere. Only downside being that it takes about 50 minutes from Arco or Riva to get there.

Coltura has total of 93 pitches available but roughly quarter of them are second or third pitches of longer routes. So roughly 70 routes can be climbed straight from the ground. Grades start from 4 and end up to 8b. Majority of the routes are in the range of 6a to 7a making Coltura a perfect for medium to higher grade climbers. Average length of the routes is respectable 25 meters. There ara shorter routes starting from 15 meters and longest pitches more than 30 meters so at least 60 meters rope is recommended.

Mika at Claudia 6a, 30m.

It is definitely a place to visit if you happen to have some additional time or when the meters for the day are completed early. What could I say after all this, just amazing rock, a definite place to visit.

Top of Claudia

Heta leading Il pilastro del brenta, 5c 25m.

Heta leading Beper 5b, 15m.

Read More

0

Quick visit to Saló

Weather is always unpredictable and sudden rain gave us a great reason to have a break for a day. Break doesn't mean that we are just watching the roof from the bed, no it is a great opportunity to see new places around the lake. And during the day we also found something surprising from the country of good food and gelato.

In our case rainy day is just a perfect weather to go out sightseeing with our two french bulldogs Topi and Helmi. This is actually already third time for them at the Lago di Garda but the very first time when I'm writing something about these small but energetic dogs (thou the title image shows what they do after the energetic activities).

We chose to head our small sightseeing to the city of Saló. Saló in located at the neighbouring region Lombardy from Trentino-Alto Adige.The road to Saló goes nicely nearby the lake level via tunnels and towns, every one of them being a great place to spend good time. One of the towns to recommended among Saló is definitely Limone that is famous for its lemon trees.

Artigiani del Gusto, Via IV Novembre, 10.

But back to Saló. It was founded already by the ancient Roman when it was known by name Pagus Salodium. City has a long history and  during the World War II it was also the capital city of the puppet Italy ruled by Benito Mussolini. Nowadays Saló is a beautiful harbor city with the nice promenades, boats and restaurants covering the coastline.

One thing that we love in Italy is the great ice-cream, gelato. And of course in our trip to Saló we wanted to taste some. To get the best gelato you have to find a real gelateria that makes their own gelato. We found a great place that has also something extraordinary. Yes, Saló has a great gelato to offer, but they have it also for the dogs! That is so funny idea that we had to test it. And guess what, it seems that dogs love it. So from now on your best friend can also enjoy the famous Italian gelato, just head to Saló to let your buddy taste some.

Helmi wonders what would be the right taste for the day.

Topi enjoys!

I got it!

Low calories keep seniors in shape.

Read More

0

Croz de le Niere - quick and comfy!

Route from Arco to Croz de la Niere.

The weather forecasts looked bad and we weren't sure if it is a good idea to go out at all . After a small
research of the nearby valleys we came to conclusion that we would like to visit a crag that has an easy and quick access in the case of a storm. Croz de le Niere was an obvious choise.

If you have been seeking for a nice place for a picnic with the possibility to climb immediately when you feel so then this is a plave for you. Croz de le Niere at the end of the Giudicarie valley is just perfect for families or anyone who can't take long approaches or climbers who prefer confortable environment. The only downside is that it takes about 40 to 50 minutes by car from Riva or Arco, but that is all it takes, no additional trekking or traveling in the woods. Parking is convinient, just under the main wall. There is also few tables and one picnic table is under a roof so even the rain won't spoil the perfect day.

Heta leading La Volpe, 4c, 26 meters warmup.

But the climbing part, is this worthwhile crag to visit? Crag has more than 70 routes to offer, grades from 3 to 8a. Majority of the routes are in the range of 5c to 7a and the average length of routes is about 20 metetrs. Small difference to majority of the sport climbing crags is that Croz de le Niere has several two pitch routes, actually some of the routes can be climbed only from the second pitch.


We climbed several routes from 4c to 6a and in all the routes bolting and anchors were great, only on few routes the distance between bolts may cause additional heartbeats while completing the crux move. Still no major reasons to complain.

I'm happy to say that Croz de le Niere is worthwhile crag to visit and especially at unpredictable weather conditions it might be a good idea to go there, since it is quick and easy to get there and back. Crag is definitely good place to visit for families, actually one of the best crags to visit. Great location, easy approach and and wide selection of routes and grades, there is something for everyone from kids to grannies. Recommended!

Il Pigro, 5b, Heta.

Pilastro Moana, 6a, Mika.

Read More

8

Essence of Climbing

We have been lucky to excercise our favorite sports in many astonishing places. But still the deepest essence of the greatest activities disappears behind all the rush and practicalities of the everyday life. I have had a growing will to bring back the missing essence and beauty of the sports in the way as it is experienced. To do this I decided to start a new growing series of photos, first one being The Essence of Climbing. I hope that you enjoy these small fractions of captured moments!

See all photos from our Picasa album:

Essence of Climbing

Read More

0

Backyard of Castel Toblino - La Gola

Map to La Gola.

If you just want to see the photos then click here.

Have you visited already all the crags of the neighbourhood or bored with polished limestone and tired of over crowded routes? The great thing is that there is always an option to find a new crag to visit. There are tens of fresh crags to pick from in the nearby valley and most of them offers astonishing views and nice surroundigs.

Our pick for the day La Gola that is located just on the backyard of the beautiful Castel Toblino at Lago di Toblino in the Valle dei Laghi. Surrounding scenery was again a great surprice, small lake in the valley between strong mountains and in the center stoods the Toblino castle at the peak of a peninsula, wow.

View over the Castel Toblino.

The crag offers a good rock and variety of climbing from technical to large holds. There are total of 140
routes on seven sectors. Grades of the routes are between 5b to 8b and majority of the routes are in the range of 6b to 7b. So its actually a recommended place for medium to advanced climbers.

Valle dei Laghi and Lago di Toblino.

Location and views are great and the approach is easy, if you know where to go. The downside was that there were no signs of any kind how to find to the
crag. We started to follow the right path but missed a small upward path leading to the Arcadioland sector. As a result we spent an hour or more on the wrong path leading to a wrong wall wich was not for climbing. Sadly our bad orienteering consumed slightly too much stamina reserved for the day. But still the approach is nice and short when you know where to go. Approach is on a reasonable path in the woods ascending towards the wall.

Heta leading 5c Micla.

The crag itself is just great. We visited one of the latest opened sector Arcadioland. Rock was solid and not polished and during the whole day we saw just one other couple climbing in the same sector with us. Bolting is also well done (at least at the Arcadioland sector) and the average length of the routes is more than 20 meters. Thera are a lot of 30 to 40 meter routes too, even for 8a grade climbers. So definitely a worthwhile crag to visit for an active and challenge seeking climber.



See all photos from our Picasa album:

Sarche, La Gola, 18.6.2013

Read More

0

Regina del Lago, great views over Valle di Ledro

Path to the crag starts from the mouth of the tunnel.

If you just want to see the photos then click here.

The old Ponale road leading to Pregasina is a well known mountainbiking trail up to the Punta dei Larici and back. For climbers the same road passes by one of the best medium level climbing crag, Regina del Lago. Regina del Lago offers total of 69 routes on four sectors from A to D. Grades of the routes starts from 4a and ends up to 7b. Majority of the routes are in the range of 5c to 6b.

So far the crags we have been visiting Regina del Lago offers the greatest view over the Lake Garda and  especially over the Valle di Ledro. The downside is that the approach is not the easiest one.

Aproach starts from the parking place just a bit after the tunnel ends. Car can be parked either to the right side of the road  SS240 just before the road on the left side to Pregasina. If the first parking is full there is the other convinient parking on the left side of the road, just after the turn to Pregasina. The third, but not recommended option, is to drive through the old tunnel mouth and park few hundred meters after the tunnel.

Parking is the easiest part of the approach. From the road side parking it takes about half an hour to reach the sectors. The crag is surrounded by steep woods and the last few hundred meters of the approach to sector B is 2c/3a climbing excercise. Heavy bags will add the difficulty factor considerably for the last part. See our photos from Picasa to get better understanding of the approach.

We visited at the sector B that is marked with few screws and a small rock on top of them? Maybe it is this or difficulty of the last hundred meters that the rock was one of the best quality (not polished) in the region. Bolting was well done and anchors were reliable as usual in the Garda region.

During the day we completed few 5c and 6a routes and as a conclusion we can recommend the crag, thou its not suitable for a families seeking for picnik type of a location.

Pregasina, Regina del Lago 17.6.2013

Read More

0