torstai 30. lokakuuta 2014

Valle Aquila - Placca dei Maleducati

Mika Huhtamaki

If you just want to see the photos then click here

Are you rude? Plate of rude, that is what the name of today's crag roughly stands for. Placca dei Maleducati has a long history starting already from 1980's. For what I have learned old age usually means bad and polished routes in climbing. But the good rock quality is what surprises me on several old crags in Finale. Placca dei Maleducati is not an exception it has good rock quality. 

Placca dei Maleducati is a west facing crag that has total of 58 routes ranging from 5a to 7c and majority of the routes are in the range of 6b-6c. Grade range makes it interesting for medium to higher level climbers. Length of the routes starts from 15 meters and ends up to 30 meters and there are even few multi-pitch sport routes.

When it comes to climbing it is just good to remember that the grading is typical for Finale so pick your warm-up routes carefully. I noticed that on my typical "bread and butter" 6a routes. Routes of the day were actually slightly more demanding than I expected so I had to take few moments hanging on a rope to gain some more strength to "warm-up".

And one thing more about the routes, whenever there is a corner crag just climb it. I did it here  and in few other crags too. I can recommend the classical corner crag line from the right end as a warm-up route. It is not hard nor difficult but just great climbing and the route offers nice exposed view over the valley below, excellent!

Great crag overall, just avoid the first 3 routes from the left end, those are widely bolted and not the best crag can offer.

Good rock quality.

Good rock quality.

See all photos:

Finale Ligure,Valle Aquila, Placca dei Maleducati, 30.10.2014

Mika Huhtamaki / Author & Editor

Mika Huhtamäki is a part time amateur rock climber, mountain biker and a snowboarder from Finland who travels often in Italy.

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