tiistai 28. lokakuuta 2014

Rocca Carpanea - Parete dimenticata

Mika Huhtamaki

If you just want to see the photos then click here

If lots of people want to be in a same place at a same time it has to be something good. In every climbing area there are classical crags that are almost must to visit and so is in Finale. Popularity in climbing means usually polished routes but not in our today's target.

Parete dimenticata is not necessary the very best but it is great crag offering total of 48 routes between 15-25 meters long and grade ranging from 5a to 8b. Lots of west facing routes with a relatively short access in about 20 minutes. And as a bonus you can get nice views over Finale and to the Mediterranean sea.

It is actually surprising that the oldest routes in the crag have been created between 1983-1989 with a second round in 1996 and 1997. What surprised me the most is that the rock is still in a good shape and very well climbable. Age of the oldest routes can be seen on the grading and some of the routes are though when compared to expected difficulty. Bolting is generally good but sometimes there are slightly distant bolts for additional excitement. Still no complains.

But being a fabulous crag means popularity and that realized for us. For our surprise the crag was almost full when we arrived. Several groups from Germany and France were already there reserving  the routes. That is not common here especially when crag has 48 routes to climb. Being crowded is not too bad but the common habit of reserving the lines with ropes for all day long wasn't too fun. Still friendliness of few fellows and the slowly diminishing groups of climbers freed us the needed routes before the sunset.

Parete dimenticata is excellent autumn crag just be aware that few others may know that too!

Heta top roping one of the hardest 5c lines.

View over Finale.

Death is among us!

See all photos:
Finale Ligure,Rocca Carpanea, Parete dimenticata, 28.10.2014

Mika Huhtamaki / Author & Editor

Mika Huhtamäki is a part time amateur rock climber, mountain biker and a snowboarder from Finland who travels often in Italy.

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