sunnuntai 26. lokakuuta 2014

Lost and found back to Falesia delle Tecchie

Mika Huhtamaki
If bolting or polished routes are common topic among sport climbers so are approaches. In Finale approaches are usually clear and there is not that much space for an error. Well this time there was. We even have the latest gear to find the crag but it doesn't always help.

Our initial target of the day was Pilastrino mirovino crag at the Rocca Carpanea. It is only 5 minutes further from Falecia delle Tecchie where we had the 1st visit just a year ago. So plan was simple and coordinates clear but as you may guess things didn't went as planned. Somehow we got lost from the approach path and we weren't the only ones who had same issues. Unlucky group of Germans were also wondering in the woods with the same problems. Maybe it is just pure incompetence but after a while we just found to Falecia delle Tecchie and decided to climb there instead Pilastrino mirovino. On top of that I had dropped my jacket while wondering in the woods. It took just a 15 minutes hill run exercise to find it, lesson: Do not have an uphill run training session before climbing! 

During the last visit we climbed primarily on the left side of the crag. This time we decided to head further to the right and see rest of the routes. Right end of the crag has the most demanding routes starting from 6a+ and ending up to 8b+. Routes are between 10 to 20 meters on a red limestone. Special detail is a cave covered with a brick wall that gets a nice golden glow when the sun is about to set.

Back to climbing, again the grading is mostly though. Shorter routes that I climbed were demanding but rewarding. Again typical Finale, pockets, pockets and small pockets. Still good climbing on a good rock with good bolting.

Finale has enough sharp pockets!

Heta got some tension to her muscles.

See all photos:
Finale Ligure,Rocca Carpanea, Falesia delle Tecchie, 26.10.2014

Mika Huhtamaki / Author & Editor

Mika Huhtamäki is a part time amateur rock climber, mountain biker and a snowboarder from Finland who travels often in Italy.

0 kommenttia:

Lähetä kommentti

Coprights @ 2016, Blogger Template Designed By Templateism | Templatelib