torstai 23. elokuuta 2012

Rock adventurers in the news

Mika Huhtamaki
Ingarda Trentino published an article and a newsletter about our rock adventures at Lake Garda.

Read article in Italy >>
Read the newsletter >> 

English translation by Daniele Tonelli / Ingarda Trentino

Take four Finnish friends (Sami, Jarkko, Mika and Heta) who loveoutdoor activities (especially climbing), smartphone owners and onholiday in Garda Trentino. The result is a very interesting anddetailed diary of their experiences, published on different platforms(iCloud, Blogger, Flickr) and also mentioned on Twitter...and through atweet Ingarda Trentino S.p.A. got in touch with them and has been ableto discover the suggestive report of their "rock trip" (30th July -12th August) and some beautiful photos!

During their stay in Garda Trentino the four friends have tried many different excursions, like Vie Ferrate Colodri, Rio Salagoni, FalesieCorno di Bò, Belvedere and Policromuro, but also a cycling tour inBocca Larici.

This is a good promotion for our land that verify the growing trend of"social media involved tourists" that are used to share real-timephotos, experiences and many other things on social media, promotingour destination in a new viral and 2.0 way.
Ingarda Trentino S.p.A has defined a short meeting in its office inorder to thank Sami, Jarkko, Mika and Heta for their passion and togive them some special "IngardaKits" with brochures and gadgets.

sunnuntai 19. elokuuta 2012

Great views over Garda at Fausto Susatti Ferrata

Mika Huhtamaki

View down to Riva and Arco from Cima Capi.

Trail starts from via Ponale.
As a last adventure for this summer we decided to summit Cima Capi (907 meters) by climbing F. Susatti Ferrata. Our day started slightly late and because of that the temperature was already around 34 celcius degrees, which is hot for a long ascent.

Actual route starts from Riva and goes along via Ponale. The first half an hour goes exactly at the same road that we pedaled to the secret spot to Punta dei Larici. While walking the old road it is easy to spot fortresses, tunnels and barrack on the sides. Old Ponale road has a long history. It been built already 1860 to protect the lake, Garda, the road and the Sperone aqueduct supplying Riva.

Sign at the Ponale road pointing
towards Cima Capi.
After the 30 minutes walk at the old war road we arrived to the point where the path number 405 heads towads via ferrata and Cima Capi. From this point forward the road gets more steep and is covered with loose rock. It takes a bit over an hour to get to the starting point of the ferrata from the crossroads.

Soon after the start the path heads towards a steep and open mountain meadows that were extremely hot during our ascent and only few parts ware nicely in the shadow. For us the ascent was one of the hottest that we have completed during the years that we have spent at Lake Garda. Having enough water and some snack was essential. Personally I reserved four liters of water for the day.

Steep ascent.
Exhausted traveller.
Views towards the lake and nearby peaks are magnificent and were getting even better after every step. The price for views is the demanding approach walk up to the starting point of the ferrata. Once we arrived to the ferrata luckily the wind was starting to cool the air and we didn't felt tired anymore.

The ferrata itself is easy and suitable for all who can walk to the starting point. It is not exposed so climbing should be easy for anyone. Ferrata is also split into several parts and it continues even for the descent path towards Bastione.

From the peak the ascent path is obvious to follow. But the ferrata, ascent and the route is not yet over. Soon after the peak descent is partially exposed at the ridge. Then after that ascent has several ferrata parts traversing on the edge of the mountain. Trail back to Riva follows first the path number 405 and then the path number 404 which goest via Bastione at the end. For us the ascent took about 2 and half hours so it was a good idea to have some additional water for the ascent. Our total time for the ascent, ferrata and descent was about 5 and half hours (including the time we spent for photographing).
At ferrata.

Yet again we got a great adventure but sadly it was our last for this year. I'm still happy that I had the opportunity to do most of the planned activities. For this year we had to skip the more demanding via ferrata Ottorino Marangoni at Monte Albano that seemed to be closed for some reason. We also had to skip few of our planned alpine multipitch routes and we missed the local freerider's weekly ride at the Skull route. But three weeks is only three weeks. I gues that we have to come back again next year. We'll see.

Heading down.

lauantai 18. elokuuta 2012

Windy views and refreshing evening at Cavédine

Mika Huhtamaki
Route from Nago to Cavédine.
After opera at Verona we decided to have a short climbing day and then afterwads enjoy a refreshing evening at Lago di Cavediné. So far during the holiday we have been visiting on new crags but today our choice was to go back to Beldevere and see the more demanding B sector.

Sector B has longer routes and  some of them are overhanging. Best part is that the sector is located clearly on a higher altitude than the A sector. Higher altitude and the average route height of 16 meters means that climbing feels more exposed. At this sector climber has a great views to watch during the whole ascent and the winds of the lake adds a cool and refreshing factor for the whole way up to the top.

Most important lesson of the day was that even the latest and the greatest topo books might have mistakes on route maps. At Beldevere it seemed that most of the routes listed on the latest "Arco Rock" guidebook from 2010 edition were wrong. Luckily there is an informative topo map at the crag. Somehow the grades and the routes were so badly mixed at the book that the local topo table was only clear way to see the routes. I included the actual topo and grades of the of the sector B to the article.
Actual routes.

We had time to try only few routes where grades were from 5c to 6a+. I usually climb 5c on-sight but at Beldevere's sector B I couldn't. It was more likely 6a/6a+ at the top. I also spoke with couple of Italian climbers and they pretty agreed that route is definitely more demanding than 5c. So be prepared for trickier parts even on a warmup route.

Top view from Beldevere B sector towards Torbole.
After short but intense climbing day we decided to avoid a holiday rush towards Torbole and instead of that we headed to the Lago di Cavediné. It is a smaller lake than Garda but big enough for a windsurfing school that is located nearby the beach. It is about 15 kilometers from Nago next to a narrow asphalt road heading towards north. It is definitely a worthwhile to visit especially when own activities are nearby the lake. Water is clear but felt colder than at lake Garda. Visiting after a hot summer day is preferred.

Sadly our holiday is about to end and we have only one more adventure left. Then after that it is all about packing up the gear and head back to Finland. Heading back means a car drive of "only" 2500 kilometers...

Behind the back view towards Nago and Torbole.
Lago di Cavédine

perjantai 17. elokuuta 2012

Medival city of Romeo and Juliet

Mika Huhtamaki
Our idea was to do something different and to get some distance for the daily sport activities. Target of the day was visit at the city of Verona and then afterwards go to the opera festivals to see Turandot opera.

Juliet's balcony.
Verona has a lot to offer; shopping, history and culture and it is well worth of visiting for a few days or a weekend. City itself is a combination of Roman ruins and a well preserved mediaval center. It is also well known for the fictive story of Romeo and Juliet and for couples a must place to visit is the balcony of the Juliet.

During the years we have been several times at the Verona's opera festivals. This may sound fancy but I have to remind that we are not opera fans. For us Verona's opera festivals has always been an astounding experience. It is unbelievable to see such a massive and well organized live performance in a true historical environment.
Turandot opera
(photo from the festival site).

Verona's summer opera festival is different in all measures. First of all it is organized in a colosseum type of an arena that is spectacular place to visit by itself. Actual operas are usually staged and staffed massively which makes them a pleasure to watch. On top of that the atmosphere is relaxed rather than formal which fits well for exhausted rock adventurers. Last thing that we have noticed is that the audience is very heterogeneous from teens to grannies. It seems that people are just coming there to have a good time together. Recommended festival to visit.

Turandot opera (photo from the festival site).

torstai 16. elokuuta 2012

Rainy day at L'orto

Mika Huhtamaki
After redpointing succesfully at Calvario's classic walls we decided to continue to a relatively new crag L'orto. Crag is so fresh that it is not even listed at the pages so the expectations were high for the quality of the rock. L'orto has also one exceptional feature, it is pointing to north east which makes it a pleasant place to climb even on a hot summer days.

Approach took about half an hour by foot from our hotel to the crag. Road is narrow and covered with stones so it might be slightly difficult to drive towards Santa Marie di Laghel which is the recommended parking place. From there the approach follows the 408 path through olive groves. Crag is nearby the spot where 408 path separates left  from the main road towards the Salt de la Cavra. From there path to the crag heads to left and the last 5 minutes of the approach are on a steep and loose upward traversing path. Path was ok to walk up to the crag but it looked that the descending down will slippery on a loose sand and rock. Once we got to the wall it became clear that it is not a populat place. At the crag we saw only two pairs climbing.

Overhanging part of the 5c - Zigole.
Wall has two parts. On the left part of the wall grades of the routes are between 5a to 6b+. On the right part of the wall routes are more demanding and grades varies from 6a to to 7c+ and on average routes were about 15 meters tall.  Surprisingly L'orto is the one of the rare places where even 5 graded route might have an overhanging parts.

Picking up a suitable route from an empty wall is a pleasure. Plan was to start from couple 5 graded warmups and then continue with 6a:s. I started with an easy 5a (19. Lampascioni) that has an overhanging crux immediately at the start. It was on of the best 5a routes that I have climbed here. Next one was 5c (17. Zigole) that had also an overhanging start and a great end on a vertical wall.

As soon as I started to descent down from the second warmup it started to rain heavily. It became soon clear that I had to forget my 6a targets (15. Rapa and 16. Spinaci) and instead pack all the climbing gear as fast as possible.

Our climbing day was short when it comes to the number of  ascents but routes were good. Sadly it looks like that we do not have other opportunity to get back to L'orto during our holiday. Hopefully next year we can return to the wall and test the routes from the right. Still, we had a nice day and a good enough reason for having more gelato.

More photos coming up later...

keskiviikko 15. elokuuta 2012

Market morning and Calvario's classic walls

Mika Huhtamaki
Bells and whistles at the market.
Arco had a market day so we decided to spent some time there and see if we can find good quality cheese or honey. Market sellers had a lot to offer but today we couldn't find what were seeking for. We decided to leave the markets and start to prepare for an afternoon redpointing session.

Classic wall.
Already earlier on this week we had a grade upgrade climbing session at Massi di Prabi which was a great place to practice for more demanding routes. Next goal was to find a good crag for redpointing routes. For redpointing purposes we chose the classic Calvario which has been the stage for the Italian trials for the very first Rock Master '87. After that the crag has been abandoned for years but in 2009 it has been cleaned and rebolted. All the routes are vertical and technical, in other words it is a perfect place to exceed our current grades. And on top of all that Calvario is located on our back yard just about a 1 kilometer away towards Laghel.

We arrived to the crag during afternoon around 2 o'clock and it was complete empty. That was a surprise because the crag is facing to the east meaning that during the afternoon it is nicely in shadow. And on top of that the rock's face wasn't badly polished.

Calvario is demanding for regular climber it has only one 4b and one 5b for warmups, rest of the routes are from 6a to 8a. Hetas target for the day was the route 2. - Mam 5b and mine the route 5. - Vibrafono 6a.

Preparing for the crux.
As a warmup Heta climbed Popi 4b and I prepared for the 5b. For some reason the 5b had trickier move at the top than I expected and I failed to climb it right at first try. As a result I slipped the very first time in here from a 5 graded route down to the rope. Four meters of unexpected excitement on a warmup route has to be a new record. My second attempt was easier and the "warmup" was topped.

Warmup route then became Heta's redpointing excercise. Initial ascent wasn't too promising but after two or three succesfull attempts Heta decided that she wants to lead climb it. She climbed it with reasonable amount of motivating fear at the crux move that I slipped on my first attempt.

After Heta's success I moved the top rope to my technical training route 6b. Route started with small finger pockets that were pointing downwards. After several attemps I had to agree that my fingers cannot handle that route yet. Next one was the actual target 6a. I managed to ascent with a top rope it and on the second attempt I also found reasonable spots for setting quickdraws. But time ran out and the route is waiting for the actual ascent. Again Heta was the hero of the day by achieving her 5b target! Calvario is a true classic!

See more photos from Flickr >>

Happy climber after a successful ascent!
Nice view from Calvario towards Arco.

tiistai 14. elokuuta 2012

Relaxing at Lago di Tenno

Mika Huhtamaki
Small turquoise lake Tenno.
Everyone here knows Lago di Garda's fresh and clean water. Beaches of the lake are popular among sunbathers and adventurers who are relaxing after a hard day at the mountains. I like the fresh water of lake Garda but I also know that there is even more special place for washing the mountain's grey dust out of the skin, it is called Lago di Tenno.

We had an easy day. Heta wasn't able to participate on our initial via ferrata dei Colodri excursion so we decided to do that again in the morning and then head to Lago di Tenno to relax at the turquoise alpine lake. Lake Tenno is is located at 550 meters on a green mountain valley that is like a small and hidden paradise.Water of the lake is few degrees warmer than at Lake Garda and the color of the water is beautifully reflected from the nearby alpined forests. Atmosphere at the beaches is also more relaxed than at the popular beaches of lake Garda.

Tenno offered a needed break for tired rock adventurers and yet another way to enjoy the region's nature.

See more photos from Flickr >>

Lake Tenno's beaches.

Heta enjoying the refreshing water of lake Tenno.

maanantai 13. elokuuta 2012

Grade upgrade at Massi di Prabi

Mika Huhtamaki
Climbing playground.

So far we have been climbing on routes that are on our regular skill range. Goal for the day was to find a good crag to train towards higher grades. For that we needed a location that is suitable for quick ascents and easy route switching. Our choice was to head towards climbing playground at Massi di Prabi. Massi di Prabi is nearby the swimming pool and Arco's camping area. Area consists of several bouldering and climbing rocks that are spread on an area just below the large Colodri rock face. Area has two main boulders A and B and both of them have 10 or more routes from 4 to 7. There are also several others bolted boulders such as boulder number 2 that is suitable for basic climbing training or lead training. Still majority of the boulders are not bolted and are suitable for actual bouldering.

Heta topping warmup 5c.
Massi di Prabi was also obvious choise us because we climbed here the very first rock acsent just a year ago. After a year my grade has upgraded from 4a to 5c and at the same I have learned to lead, trad and multipitch climbing. Now the next step is to work towards better grades. My personal goal is to get a solid 6a skills and Heta's target is 5b.

For the grade upgrade training session we headed for the boulder B that is roughly 10 meters high and has several bolted 6a and 6b routes with good warmup 5a and 5c routes and a 7c route. Top anchors are also accessible by climbing to the top of the boulder from the backside. A perfect place to work towards higher grades.

Heta's crux at the "E pur si muove" - 6a
- a good test of balance.
All routes, even 5a, have mostly small holds or small finger holes and few finger crimps combined with  friction moves or on same cases small lists or a flake. Face was mostly straight up or slightly positive on the 5a and 5c. First we started with a quick warmup with the 5 routes and then we continued with top ropes on the 6x lines.

Heta was definitely the hero of the day. Her leading grade is somewhere between 4c and 5a but today after lot of practicing she was able to climb one 6a. I worked on several 6a and 6a+ lines. At the end of the day both of use were tired but agreed that a we will do a similiat excercise in the near future. Location for the next training session is still open.

Massi di Prabi's boulders have definitely a role here in between the big walls. Recommended for training purposes even thou there are way better places for enjoyable climbing. Just a one more coppa of gelato and my day is perfect.

lauantai 11. elokuuta 2012

Tall walls of Nago

Mika Huhtamaki
Nago's parking next to a ranch house.
After Massone day we wanted to see one of the biggest crag at the Garda region. Obvious choise for the day's excursion was Nago. This was also the last climbing day for Jarkko and Sami so we wanted to have something spectacular or at least high to climb.

The official Arco topo book states thart the crag might be overcrowded but our experince wasn't that bad. Of course there was other people climbing but most of the time there was a free route to pick.

Nago is huge in all countable ways; the number of routes, grades and heights. Crag has six sectors and total of 139 routes. Heights of the routes varies from 10 meters up to the 40 meters and grades start from 4b and end up to 8c. Average height of the routes is around 22 meters and average grade around 6b.

Jarkko leading "Take it easy"
- 5c, 25m.
During the day we climbed only few routes but the gained meters we good. We completed several 25 meters 5c routes and Sami did one 25 meters 6a route that was facing to the sun all the way from the bottom to the top.

Surprisingly the longer (25 meters) easy routes (5b-5c) weren't badly polished. Worst line was one of the 4c line that was more likely 5c because of the polished rock on the steep sections. Based on our experiences it looked like that routes greater than 5 or longer than 20 meters are in a decent shape.
Heta topping.

As a conclusion we agreed that Nago is definitely worthwhile to visit but be aware that some of the routes migh be badly polished and temperature during the hot afternoons might be an issue. During the summer months most of the tall walls are hot to climb but before 11 o'clock walls are mostly in shadow. It is a good idea to visit the crag early in the morning if you want to climb tall and difficult routes during the summer.

We got what we expected, tall walls. And once more thanks to Sami and Jarkko for nice time here at Lake Garda. I'll continue with Heta here to to seek new rock adventures. Ciao!

See photos of the day from Flickr >>

Top view.

perjantai 10. elokuuta 2012

Great climbing at Massone, Falecia

Mika Huhtamaki
10 minutes walk from the parking.
We decided to head back to Massone after our yesterday's failed climbing session spoiled by the sudden rain. We learned from our earlier mistake and headed towards the crag earlier to avoid potential afternoon rain.

Massone crag is located about 3 kilometers from the city center of Arco. Crag is loacted on the eastern side of the Sarca river at the Massone village. It is nearby the Via Olivi road that heads up to the Monte Ben. Road to the crag is mostly narrow and running through tiny gateways and then through olive groves. Because of the narrow streets and our clumsy car we decided to park our car next to Via Maffel road on a free parking and take about a ten minutes walk up to Massone crag's first entry point. Entry is locates on the first serpentine turn towards right it has also a parking for drivers who want to drive up there. Crag itself is divided into a six sectors offering grades from 4a up to 9a and height of the routes being between 12 to 25 meters. Our choise was to start from the sector A that offers grades from 4a to 6c.

Massone wall.
Rock was pretty much ok and mostly it wasn't too polished. Surprisingly the the Massone crag wasn't overcrowded either. Maybe it was the temperature of 35 celcius degrees, meaning hot for Finns! Climbing at the Massone during the hot summer months is hard because at least sectors A, B and C are exposed to to sun from the 10 am to the late afternoon. Good water reserves were a necessity for the day's climbing session.

Our team completed all the 4 and 5 graded routes from sector A and few 5 and 6a routes from sector B and C. Some of the grades might be slightly out of the actual grade. One emple of a  such a route is number 9 "Boiacca" - 5c, wich was downgraded.

Again Arco has provided a good climbing day for us. Yet another reason to have some more gelato.
See more photos from Flickr >>
See the photo blog >>

View from the top towards overhaning parts of the wall.

torstai 9. elokuuta 2012

Failed plans and quick freeride at Monte Brione

Mika Huhtamaki
At the top of Monte Brione.
I bet that everyone has a day or two during their holidays when things won't go as planned. Our Thursday was a day like that. Initial idea was to sleep a little longer than normally and then head to a via ferrata or to a climbing crag. Morning started as planned but during the noon the plan started to drift between different ideas. Finally we decided to head towards Massone which is also known from the Rock Master climbing festival. But during the approach we heard a distant sounds of a thunder and soon after that it started to rain. Once we arrived to Massone the rain was already getting harder and at that stage it was obvious that climbing wasn't an option for the day. Still it was clear that Massone crag looked promising and we would be back later. Once rain got harder we decided to head back to Villa Nicole.

Meeting with a German trail heroes!
Luckily the bad weather didn't lasted forever and in the evening there was still enough time left for a short freeride run. I have been riding at the Monte Brione trail only if there is nothing special for the day and during the late hours when the mountain is empty and silent. This was just a perfect day for the Brione ride. Climbing up to the hill takes about 30 minutes and I got there just before eight o'clock. At the top of the Brione I met also a small group of German trail riders who had exactly the same plan in their mind, to head down via old mountainbike trail. Last year the trail wasn't ridable because trees were cut down on it. Now the trail was in a better shape thanks to German riders who have been cleaning the path.

Evening view over Arco.
Sunset is a great time for a ride, temperature is just right and colors of the view over Arco were excellent. After a short photo shooting session it was time to head down. German riders had done a good job, trail  wasn't completely clean but ridable. Day wasn't spectacular but the view over the Sarca valley during the sunset was beautiful.

keskiviikko 8. elokuuta 2012

King Tremalzo

Mika Huhtamaki
Our transportation arrived to Tremalzo.
If I would have to ride only one mountainbike trail at Lake Garda it would be Tremalzo trail down to Riva. Ride starts from top of the Tremalzo at 1800 meters and descends down to 80 meters. Length of the route varies slightly between different paths but it is around 30 kilometers long.

Bike shuttle started from Torbole at 10:00 and arrived to Tremalzo 50 minutes later. The trip wasn't boring because shuttle driver had prepared a karaoke session for passengers. Definitely a right attitude for the day. Karaoke song was Litfiba's Tex. I didn't understood too much of the lyrics, but the main message was clear, lonely cowboy riding alone in the desert. That fits pretty well for the day's theme. And of course our shuttle driver was the loudest singer, bravo Luca!

Preparation for the ride started with coffee at the Rifugio Garda at 1686 meters. During the final check we noticed that Jarkko's bike wasn't in a proper shape. Several spokes were badly loose and because of that the whole rim was risky for a long ride. Luckily Sami had a proper tool to fix the rim. After half an hour Sami managed to tighten the spokes and to rebalance the rim. It seems that bike rentals do not check the rims at all between customers.

Starting tunnel at Tremalzo on 1800 meters.
At twelve we finally started to head towards the starting point of the trail. Approach took about 15 minutes from the reataurant and we had to climb additional 120 meters up to 1800 meters. The fun part starts just after the tunnel. Initial part of the Tremalzo trail  goes on an old World War I road. Story tells that prisoners of the war built the road during World War I.

Rocky road is easy to ride and for us that meant a high speed. Still we had to use breaks a lot on the steep curves to avoid sliding and falling out of the way. The road is mostly covered with loose rock and is thus demanding to ride fast on tight curves.

Old war road ended to the Passo Nota at 1205 meters and first part of the trail was completed. From Passo Nota we headed towards Bocca dei Fortini (1243 meters) by following the trail number 421. Here some pedaling was required to ride few steep uphills. Next we headed to Passo Guil (1209 meters) by following again the trail number 421. From Passo Guil we continued to Passo Rocchetta (1159 meters) switching to the trail number 422.
Trail map.

At Passo Rocchetta we continued on the 422 wich is long, fast and enjoyable to ride. There is also more technical alternative 422bis. I have done it once. Still I wouldn't recommend it. It is great for experienced and technical trail riders but 422bis is it's own kind of a "fun" and majority of the riders do not enjoy it.

After the trail ended to a rock road we had a small planning break for the rest of the day. During the recent years I have chosen the rocky and dry riverbed that is crossing the 422bis pedaling route (see our trip to the secret spot). It is enjoyable and fast trail that crosses the 422bis few times until it joins to the main route 422bis.

Freeriding path 422 nearby Passo Rocchetta.
This year was different. We chose the 422 trail that ends nearby Pregasina. It is more demanding  and steeper than the earlier part. This trail requires good control on a loose rock, on steep turns and on sudden drops. Final part of the trail runs on a very loose rock road. From that part forward the path continues to on an asphalt road and then via old Ponale road down to Riva.

Tremalzo trail has shown it's greatness again. It is a nice combination of easy scenery roads, technical trails and demanding and steep descents. We had a great reason to enjoy ice cream at  Riva!

Videos will be available afterwards once we get a better Internet access.

See our photos from the Tremalzo trail.

tiistai 7. elokuuta 2012

Denied multipitch and evening at the Muro dell'asino

Mika Huhtamaki
We had a solid plan to climb a short multipitch early in the morning and then head to the Muro dell'asino to climb some sport routes. Weather was great in the morning and we headed towards Monte Colodri's south face in time. Once we arrived we saw a warning note that the whole south face has been closed since 2008. Idea for the route came from Sarca Walls book that has been printed 2007, but we didn't checked the latest access information, what a bummer. A lesson learned, from now on we check the access upfront from the web site and we do not trust on old books that lists the routes.

Best part of the failed multipitch was the beautiful sunrise.

Santa Maria di Laghel and trail 431.
That left us then only one option, to wait until early evening to let the temperature calm down a bit. At 17:00 we decided finally to head towards Muro dell'asino that is located almost on our back yard. "Almost" means that the approach took an hour and a half. We followed the instruction provided on the Arco Rock topo book. First part of the approach went well but once we turned right to instruction became confusing. But eventually we found the crack.

Heta clips a quickdraw.
To avoid similiar confusing experiences I'll try to write briefly how to navigate the last part of the approach correctly. I expect that readers can find Santa Maria di Laghel where from my instructions starts. From church Santa Maria di Laghel turn right and follow the trail number 431. Same path is used as an exit trail from the via ferrata. Follow the main trail up to 310 meters from sea level. From time to time the approach is rocky and relatively steep. It takes about 15 to 20 minutes to get up there from Santa Maria di Laghel . Then the trail splits into two, take the left and follow it for a slow descent until you can see wooden steps which lead up to La Placca sector.

We were quite happy once we got there. Routes were high, between 15 to 30 meters and on the highest routes a 70 meter rope is recommended. Topping the routes was also great, because the view was rewarding. Grades of the routes varies between 4c up to 7b. Majority of the routes are between 5b to 6b. Because of our late schedule we only climbed between 2 to 4 routes per person but the late day temperature was definitely a pleaseant experience.

Top view was great when the sun was setting behind the opposite mountain

Jarkko holding on an x-position.
Muro dell'asino is also one of the rare places that has a dedicated sector for kids or true beginners. Baby Wood sector has routes where altitudes varies between 8 to 10 meters and grades starts from 2c and end up to 4a. Environment is pleasant and I can imagine that this is a suitable crack for a whole family. Still approach might be hard for the youngest climbers.

Additional notes:
We noticed that on La Placca sector routes number 29 "Testo Finito" - 5c and number 32 "Lo Spazzacamino" - 6a had loose bolts. We noticed one bolt on both routes that was moving slightly sideways (few millimeters). Be cautious out there.

Coprights @ 2016, Blogger Template Designed By Templateism | Templatelib