maanantai 13. elokuuta 2012

Grade upgrade at Massi di Prabi

Mika Huhtamaki
Climbing playground.

So far we have been climbing on routes that are on our regular skill range. Goal for the day was to find a good crag to train towards higher grades. For that we needed a location that is suitable for quick ascents and easy route switching. Our choice was to head towards climbing playground at Massi di Prabi. Massi di Prabi is nearby the swimming pool and Arco's camping area. Area consists of several bouldering and climbing rocks that are spread on an area just below the large Colodri rock face. Area has two main boulders A and B and both of them have 10 or more routes from 4 to 7. There are also several others bolted boulders such as boulder number 2 that is suitable for basic climbing training or lead training. Still majority of the boulders are not bolted and are suitable for actual bouldering.

Heta topping warmup 5c.
Massi di Prabi was also obvious choise us because we climbed here the very first rock acsent just a year ago. After a year my grade has upgraded from 4a to 5c and at the same I have learned to lead, trad and multipitch climbing. Now the next step is to work towards better grades. My personal goal is to get a solid 6a skills and Heta's target is 5b.

For the grade upgrade training session we headed for the boulder B that is roughly 10 meters high and has several bolted 6a and 6b routes with good warmup 5a and 5c routes and a 7c route. Top anchors are also accessible by climbing to the top of the boulder from the backside. A perfect place to work towards higher grades.

Heta's crux at the "E pur si muove" - 6a
- a good test of balance.
All routes, even 5a, have mostly small holds or small finger holes and few finger crimps combined with  friction moves or on same cases small lists or a flake. Face was mostly straight up or slightly positive on the 5a and 5c. First we started with a quick warmup with the 5 routes and then we continued with top ropes on the 6x lines.

Heta was definitely the hero of the day. Her leading grade is somewhere between 4c and 5a but today after lot of practicing she was able to climb one 6a. I worked on several 6a and 6a+ lines. At the end of the day both of use were tired but agreed that a we will do a similiat excercise in the near future. Location for the next training session is still open.

Massi di Prabi's boulders have definitely a role here in between the big walls. Recommended for training purposes even thou there are way better places for enjoyable climbing. Just a one more coppa of gelato and my day is perfect.

Mika Huhtamaki / Author & Editor

Mika Huhtamäki is a part time amateur rock climber, mountain biker and a snowboarder from Finland who travels often in Italy.

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