tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-87122565276727955032024-03-21T02:20:30.191-07:00Rock BlocksRock adventures from Lake Garda to SicilyMika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.comBlogger125125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-47852855625109466232016-11-02T15:16:00.000-07:002016-11-05T15:22:36.468-07:00Val Varatella and I Gumbi<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MdmpUDWSp-c/WB5W7SCC83I/AAAAAAAAEdM/fhBogHwdYBIG96sMZe5kWCCi4HzbDmuWgCPcB/s1600/G0251957.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MdmpUDWSp-c/WB5W7SCC83I/AAAAAAAAEdM/fhBogHwdYBIG96sMZe5kWCCi4HzbDmuWgCPcB/s640/G0251957.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><i>I Gumbi</i> is the first sector in the valley along the path "<i>Sentiero delle Terre Alte</i>". Beautiful and sunny sector offers more than 40 routes for all climbing styles and vide range of difficulties. Somehow the quiet valley and the steep red wall give a massive climbing experience. I noticed that even my normal voice echoed over the valley when climbing on the wall.</b><br />
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/dir/Albenga,+Province+of+Savona/Grotte+di+Toirano,+Via+Alle+grotte,+17055+Toirano+SV/@44.1413336,8.082435,11z/am=t/data=!4m13!4m12!1m5!1m1!1s0x12d25ecf56f2262d:0x54282d8727fb5493!2m2!1d8.2156113!2d44.0494254!1m5!1m1!1s0x12d2f5b8a7107797:0xaf55a2049c356eac!2m2!1d8.2001393!2d44.1359155" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-amXxJb4j4TA/WB5TO2UYI9I/AAAAAAAAEcU/i4_Gc0FQNA8LjltT1NUqJqqwZeUV5Y_KACPcB/s200/carta-grotte-toirano.JPG" width="165" /></a>Easiest few routes start from 5a and hardest routes end up to 7b+. In general the routes are long and well bolted between the years 2003 and 2012. Overall rock quality is excellent at least on the 2012 bolted routes we climbed. Lot of long and vertical or overhanging routes are available from technical crimps to strength requiring routes. I have to admit that I enjoyd this crag and just this crag is definitely a reason to come back to <i>Val Varatella.</i><br />
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And after the climbing day we headed to the "<i>Grotte di Toirano" </i>a 1300 long cave under the nearby mountains. But that's another story.<br />
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<br />Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com017055 Toirano, Province of Savona, Italia44.1400342321385 8.202054408459503144.134336232138494 8.1919694084595029 44.1457322321385 8.2121394084595032tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-19984668713278606802016-11-01T15:51:00.000-07:002016-11-04T16:24:11.375-07:00Val Pennavaire and Colosseo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b><i>Val Pennaire</i> is a large valley starting from <i>Albenga</i> and offering over 40 crags and more than 1000 <i>Val Pennavaire</i> could be easily a target even for a longer climbing holiday just because of the huge amount of good quality routes to be climbed. A good amount of the routes have been bolted after 2000 or even later than 2010 thou the first rock climbers discovered the valley already in the 90's. If the sole number of fresh routes is not a justification for a visit then the varied styles of climbing from tufas to overhangs and slabs are. </b><br />
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/dir/Albenga,+Province+of+Savona/44.1042474,8.0885346/@44.123561,8.0714093,11.15z/data=!4m9!4m8!1m5!1m1!1s0x12d25ecf56f2262d:0x54282d8727fb5493!2m2!1d8.2156113!2d44.0494254!1m0!3e0" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="116" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QtwYiQsFaEY/WB0WG_RIDnI/AAAAAAAAEa8/DEgzQ_UXTQcW0xYm6xBCLuzPpdQbfq3awCPcB/s200/carta-colosseo.JPG" width="200" /></a>Our pick of the day from <i>Val Pennavaire</i> was the crag Colosseo that has respectable 35 routes from 4a to 7c+, majority of the routes being on the range of 6a-7b. Bolting here is good as usual and the routes are relatively new, bolted between 2005 and 2006. On some overhangs a bit of polished rock exists but nothing that would affect to the climbing experience. Most propably the best parts of the wall are the on the overhanging part of the wall. Mostly those are 7+ routes but there is still some good overhangs for 6 grade climbers as well.<br />
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Again a great crack to visit. So far we have been picking cracks that are bolted 2005 or later and with that in mind the rock quality and bolting has been good or even great. I'm a little bit amazed how many good routes on a good rock there are. And all that in a relatively small region.<br />
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<br />Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com017030 Nasino SV, Italia44.113276 8.0314097000000444.113276 8.03140970000004 44.113276 8.03140970000004tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-10330898723252300022016-10-31T17:08:00.000-07:002016-11-03T15:43:23.957-07:00Valle del Vero and crowded Santa Lucia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RJVT518Uyq4/WBu8ada31CI/AAAAAAAAEZo/UXhf_Acmx94TLgTr2bSW3I-kbrQKvMjxACPcB/s1600/IMG_2229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RJVT518Uyq4/WBu8ada31CI/AAAAAAAAEZo/UXhf_Acmx94TLgTr2bSW3I-kbrQKvMjxACPcB/s640/IMG_2229.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Valle del Vero is in an exceptional setting between steep mountains, next to the Grotte di Toirano, the </b><b>caves of Toirano and the Church of Santa Lucia. Walking further via path "<i>Sentiero delle Telle Alte</i>" shows also the hidden beauty of the nature in the valley. This is place is not just about climbing, it is about experiencing the surrounding nature as well.</b><br />
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/dir/Albenga,+Province+of+Savona/Grotte+di+Toirano,+Via+Alle+grotte,+17055+Toirano+SV/@44.1413336,8.082435,11z/am=t/data=!4m13!4m12!1m5!1m1!1s0x12d25ecf56f2262d:0x54282d8727fb5493!2m2!1d8.2156113!2d44.0494254!1m5!1m1!1s0x12d2f5b8a7107797:0xaf55a2049c356eac!2m2!1d8.2001393!2d44.1359155" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gJxgNkD_ydo/WBu6XCa_knI/AAAAAAAAEZM/Fupa5XkHFqMFKZIV6ZtCkPIU6KE1bdE0ACPcB/s200/carta-grotte-toirano.JPG" width="165" /></a>For climbing the Church of Santa Lucia gives name to the sunny and most popular climbing sector. Reasons for the popularity are obvious, sector has a quick access and you can reach the bottom of the routes withing ten minutes from the parking. Routes are also well bolted and grade range is from easy to medium and mostly technical slabs and vertical walls in total of 22 routes.<br />
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Over the day we felt that in the noon and early afternoon the crag was too crowded at first. Rock quality was average and ok in general most probably because routes were bolted beteen 2006 - 2010. Best routes we climbed were <i>Idefix </i>and <i>Obelix </i>because of the combination of the slab and overhand in a single routes. Also <i>Lella </i>is worthwhile to do. Not the best of the <i>Oltrefinale </i>but ok for a one time visit.<br />
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<br />Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com017055 Toirano, Province of Savona, Italia44.135332327401557 8.200435638427734444.129633827401555 8.1903506384277343 44.141030827401558 8.2105206384277345tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-35709925080369261262016-10-30T15:06:00.000-07:002016-10-31T16:00:16.603-07:00Initial touch to the Oltrefinale - Telematica<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Oltrefinale is relatively recently bolted region and new climbing location for us. Well almost, we have been twice in Finale Ligure which is only 15-20 kilometers apart from Oltrefinale. Still the difference in these too locations is amazing. The amount of relatively new routes in a small region is amazing.</b><br />
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/dir/Albenga,+Province+of+Savona/44.1124937,8.0654633/@44.112146,8.0761957,11.75z/data=!4m9!4m8!1m5!1m1!1s0x12d25ecf56f2262d:0x54282d8727fb5493!2m2!1d8.2156113!2d44.0494254!1m0!3e0" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TgP-PLC62bc/WBfL27aQ7eI/AAAAAAAAEXw/-GYCDOlN_5w-ga7nGMWHGATCxmGbahP0wCPcB/s320/carta-telematica.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Oltrefinale consists six main valleys: Val Nimbalto, Val Varatella, Val Pennavaire, Val Tanaro, Valle Argentina and Val Nervia. Our basecamp is located at Albenga so that we can easily access the Val Pannaire, Val Varatella and Val Nimbalto. Finale Ligure routes are also accessible in a reasonable time because the drive from the Albenga to Finale Ligure takes less than 30 minutes.</div>
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We started our expedition by visiting Val Pennaire that offers over 40 crags and more than 1000 routes. Valley offers a great amount of routes for different climbing styles from tufas to overhangs and slabs. </div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MWEpqGjUDbg/WBfKpnxjxQI/AAAAAAAAEXQ/yrDuB3r72BEc-_ydab6zxMrNexH_WXrGwCPcB/s1600/IMG_2177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MWEpqGjUDbg/WBfKpnxjxQI/AAAAAAAAEXQ/yrDuB3r72BEc-_ydab6zxMrNexH_WXrGwCPcB/s320/IMG_2177.JPG" width="213" /></a>Our expedition to Oltrefinale started from the good warmup crag Telematica, bolted 2004. Crag has total of 25 routes mostly on red and grey limestone and varying heights from 15 to 25 meters. Grade range is relatively easy from 4c to 6b+. Grading felt a bit stiff on few routes but overall level of difficulty matched well on expectations.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Locw5WAqpYQ/WBfKpm6iFAI/AAAAAAAAEXQ/_it-MqV6KDEioUj845pWbZJVOeWfBYEuQCPcB/s1600/IMG_2187.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Locw5WAqpYQ/WBfKpm6iFAI/AAAAAAAAEXQ/_it-MqV6KDEioUj845pWbZJVOeWfBYEuQCPcB/s400/IMG_2187.JPG" width="266" /></a>Telematica was a good starting point for our journey to Oltrefinale. Ok rock quality and nice vertical walls.</div>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com017030 Castelbianco, Province of Savona, Italia44.112922940541317 8.066127261377005244.107222440541314 8.0560422613770051 44.11862344054132 8.0762122613770053tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-84283596762078730772016-06-25T15:09:00.000-07:002016-07-12T16:44:06.246-07:00Rise Up - speed climbing and deep water solo Relaxed social events are always great to be with friends. <a href="http://www.millet-mountain.com/community/news/view/key/millet-rise-up-tour.html" target="_blank">Millet Rise Up Tour</a> in Arco is one of a kind happening where all climbers without distinction of age or skill can have good time together. Two days event started in Arco's climbing Arena and continued at the following morning with a deep water solo climbing event at Lake Garda.<br />
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This year I was lucky to get in the speed climbing competition. For me speed climbing is a new experience so I was climbing the route on-sight. I don't know if it is luck or Finnish mentality that let me push up to the 3rd semifinal round where I accidentally slipped and fell. After that round my next opponent for the finals would have been our ice-climbing couch from last winter's Marmolada adventure, Alessandro Beber. Well maybe it was better that I fell, he would have been too fast for me ;) Great fun thou.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young power!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My 1st round speed climbing.</td></tr>
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And after the competitive evening the following day started as an early morning wake-up with a paddle boat trip to the deep water solo wall. Climbing there was good but at some stage I started to wonder why I feel so cold all the time. I'm a Finn after all and cold water shouldn't be an issue and I was climbing on reasonable difficult routes. The reason for the cold became clear when I got back to home, my body temperature was 39,1 Celsius degrees, oh boy!<br />
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<b>See the official video about the 2 days event.</b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm heading towards Madonna.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CAmlEp7K_Mc/V4V6csnAeEI/AAAAAAAAEFI/zidoes4UGgg09UaSMZ6YTTYBOJlU5PPRwCKgB/s1600/superman.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CAmlEp7K_Mc/V4V6csnAeEI/AAAAAAAAEFI/zidoes4UGgg09UaSMZ6YTTYBOJlU5PPRwCKgB/s640/superman.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My brother Juha learns to be a superman.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Learning balance.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Late night picnic at the climbing arena.</td></tr>
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<br />Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com0Arco Dr, Forest Hills, TN 37215, Yhdysvallat36.0822706 -86.847015536.0806666 -86.849537 36.0838746 -86.844494tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-22146336250452215442016-06-23T13:17:00.000-07:002016-07-06T15:16:28.079-07:00Via Trento and Via del 46 Parallelo - Parete Zebrata<br />
<br />During the last years Parete Zebrata has been our favorite hang around wall for quick and shady afternoon climbs. One obvious reason is the shade and reasonable afternoon and evening temperature even during the hot season. Wall is climbable even during the hottest days after around 4pm so the only limiting factor is the length of the day.<br />
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<b>Rita</b><br />
On the other hand Parete Zebrata is a good wall for longer 400+ long routes during the spring and fall. Still easier long routes are not necessarily always well protected, for example old and popular route Rita has several pitches where bolt spacing is around 15-20 meters. Usually distant bolts are not in a difficult spot but sometimes additional protective gear may help while climbing. Interesting route that has a long chimney at the last third. Just the history and length of the route justifies an ascent.<br />
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<b>Via Trento</b><br />
<a href="https://www.google.fi/maps/dir/arco,+tn,+italy/45.995631,10.926592/@45.97072,10.789948,11z/data=!4m15!4m14!1m10!1m1!1s0x478211565cc435af:0xbcd6da353d039d91!2m2!1d10.8855763!2d45.9178609!3m4!1m2!1d10.923982!2d45.980791!3s0x4782133978c1da3d:0x32eba8064b9fcafe!1m1!4e1!3e0?hl=fi" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--u3lDXukA0E/UeMnUmswkMI/AAAAAAAABkI/IL148AT-7r4/s200/mappa-zebrata.PNG" /></a>A good afternoon or evening route to be climbed during the hot season. Some friction climbing and few harder sections than the grade 5b. Good belay stations and safe descent makes it a nice option for a relaxed evening picnic over the Sarca valley.<br />
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<b>Via del 46 Parallelo</b><br />
Oldest route on the Parete Zebrata, easy with good belays stations. It can be a good training ground for a multipitch climbing as a 180 meters long. Somewhat long bolt distances may still scare some of the beginners off. We still managed to use it as a training climb for my brother and his girlfriend so at least in our case it was a good choice for that. Grade is 4a and mostly it is that, maybe few harder spots but no friction climbing.<br />
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Over the years we have climbed at least the following routes from Parete Zebrata:<br />
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<li>Opera Prima, 5b, 3 pitches, 100 meters</li>
<li>Via Delle Mimose, 5b, 3 pitces, 120 meters</li>
<li>Donne, 5b, 3 pitches, 120 meters</li>
<li><a href="http://rockblocks.blogspot.it/2013/07/multipitch-at-parete-zebrata.html" target="_blank">Zo Le Man</a>, 5b, 3 pitches, 120 meters</li>
<li>Gino Gianna, 5b, 4 pitches, 150 meters</li>
<li>Giusy, 5b / A0, 3 pitches, 150 meters</li>
<li>Via Trento, 5b, 5 pitches, 180 meters</li>
<li>Via del 46 Parallelo, 4a, 6 pitches, 180 meters</li>
<li>Spinelo, 6a, 7 pitches, 220 meters</li>
<li>Rita, 5c, 15 pitches, 400 meters</li>
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<br />Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com0Trenton maakunta, Italia46.020330183690774 10.93379974365234445.976229683690775 10.853118743652344 46.064430683690773 11.014480743652344tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-84264896563713761322016-06-19T15:27:00.001-07:002016-06-23T05:34:09.021-07:00Monte Colodri and Cinque Stazioni<div>
<b>Hanging on vertical walls over a mediaval city is not a everyday thing to do. But at Monte Colodri that is the norm. Climbing at the Monte Colodri is just fun because the beautiful views over the Sarca valley, Arco's castle, Lake Garda and due the easy access. </b></div>
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Of course easy access has its downside too. Some routes are more or less polished because of the <br />
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massive number of accents made over the years. Cinque Stazione is not the hardest accent to get to the top of the Monte Colodri and surprisingly it is still in a reasonable condition. 8 pitches of actual climbing and few additional pitches at the end of the route before the topping offers a half day rock journey.<br />
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Route is a good adventure when the temperature is not too high but during the hot season the fun can quickly turn into a via dolorosa. If you are not afraid of few A0 moves and occasionally long distance bolts then this is potential route to go.</div>
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<b>Read about other routes from Monte Colodri:</b></div>
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<a href="http://rockblocks.blogspot.it/2014/07/primi-sogni-multipitch-at-monte-colodri.html" target="_blank">Primi Sogni -multipitch at Monte Colodri (South Face)</a></div>
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<a href="http://rockblocks.blogspot.it/2015/06/aspettando-martino-great-warm-up-route.html" target="_blank">Aspettando Martino - great warm-up route</a></div>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com038062 Arco, Province of Trento, Italia45.92731143594812 10.89040249311528945.92455043594812 10.885359993115289 45.930072435948119 10.895444993115289tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-26177580084012588762016-06-17T15:25:00.000-07:002016-06-21T05:32:20.967-07:00Regina del Lago and long routes, 17.6.2016<b>Rock climbing is more than just a physical and mental test of your skills. On a right location it offers a great way to see the surrounding nature from a different point of a view. One of such places in Lago di Garda is Regina del Lago.</b><br />
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/place/Pregasina+TN/@45.8655635,10.8136371,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x4782175edc2436bb:0x260709882e6ce371" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VQ0iZ4DImRE/Vvw5R1lRH3I/AAAAAAAADuE/HNzV2m0xMU0cBvyfkiWTtoFpUc4iQOLNACKgB/s200/mappa-regina.JPG" width="172" /></a>Regina del Lago is popular sport climbing crack that has also a nice sector of longer routes. We have <br />
been visiting here occasionally and for us it is a great place to get started before longer and more demanding routes. Still when it comes to the challenge you an find routes up to 7b and 150 meters long so it has plenty to climb at the Prima Fascia and Seconda Fascia sectors.<br />
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Today's climb was one of the shortest routes, only 80 meters and 3 pitches with a grade of 5c/6a. Route was enjoyable with a reasonable boltin and great views. Scariest part was when snake was next to our belay station between 2nd and 3rd pitches. Most propably it was mildly or non poisonous Zamensis longissimus longissimus - Aesculapian snake.<br />
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<b>So far we have climbed the following routes from the Sector Prima and Sector Seconda Facia:</b><br />
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<li>Via Caino e Abele, 6a+</li>
<li>Via Plaisir, 6a</li>
<li>Via Babilonia, 6a</li>
<li>Via Sole Minore, 6a</li>
<li>Via Sesto Senso, 6a+</li>
<li>Via Settimo Cielo , 5c/6a</li>
<li>Via Messalina, 6a</li>
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The views over the surrounding mountains, valleys and over the Lake Garda makes this wall unforgettable. </div>
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<b>Read more about Regina del Lago from our earlier posts:</b></div>
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2015 March: <a href="http://rockblocks.blogspot.it/2016/03/switch-from-ice-to-rock-faces-at-regina.html" target="_blank">Switch from ice to rock faces at Regina del Lago</a></div>
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2014 March: <a href="http://rockblocks.blogspot.it/2014/03/spring-climbing-over-ledro-valley.html" target="_blank">Spring climbing over Ledro Valley</a></div>
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2013 June: <a href="http://rockblocks.blogspot.it/2013/06/regina-del-lago-great-views-over-valle.html" target="_blank">Regina del Lago, great views over Valle di Ledro</a><br />
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-71867060934685839992016-06-16T14:56:00.000-07:002016-06-18T15:25:49.930-07:00Climbing for everyone at Falecia Family San Martino<b><br /></b>
<b>We got a nice challenge this year. Our godson and his two brothers are going to visit us in the Arco. And of course they want to learn some climbing. Yahoo, but wait, they are 3, 5 and 8 years old, what we can find for them?</b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sFdXcA63PYk/V2W9g9TWj_I/AAAAAAAAD8w/y0i8fSzwnQcah7_gS7WYOfwMXUVXUaqYQCKgB/s1600/helli-1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sFdXcA63PYk/V2W9g9TWj_I/AAAAAAAAD8w/y0i8fSzwnQcah7_gS7WYOfwMXUVXUaqYQCKgB/s640/helli-1.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Easy enough access for our small mountaineer frenchie Helli.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j-EZEhRevbs/V2W9hcM-pyI/AAAAAAAAD8w/JrOEM-Mk86MS-6hUZqisSJTVy1d9yEbHwCKgB/s1600/heta-1.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j-EZEhRevbs/V2W9hcM-pyI/AAAAAAAAD8w/JrOEM-Mk86MS-6hUZqisSJTVy1d9yEbHwCKgB/s320/heta-1.png" width="213" /></a>Climbing is demanding sport and thus most of the crags have been created with the idea of stretching <br />
your limits. That is good for the active climbers but starting of the sport becomes very hard due the fact that majority of the crags are not suitable for absolute beginners.<br />
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To solve the this issue local cities at Lake Garda have been doing excellent job by creating new easy to access and casual climbing crags for kids, beginners and families. One of such crags is Falecia Family San Martino just next to the center of Arco and famous crag <a href="http://rockblocks.blogspot.it/2012/08/great-climbing-at-massone-falecia.html" target="_blank">Massone</a>.<br />
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Crag passed all the test. Easy access, easy routes and good spots for a picnic. White checking the crag we also climbed all the 8 routes from Junior sector graded from 4c to 6b (9-15 meters tall) and checked the kids sector that has routes from 3-4 which are 15-20 meters tall.<br />
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This is the place where we are going to visit with our godson's family. A true 5 star experience on its class! Great work from the GardaTrentino outdoor park project, thanks!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Really nice views over Arco and Lake Garda while climbing.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wGGjvesbACw/V2W9opW5D_I/AAAAAAAAD8w/hGgW_coPsIYWqsCknBR_UithvSpmp2YZgCKgB/s1600/IMG_3172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wGGjvesbACw/V2W9opW5D_I/AAAAAAAAD8w/hGgW_coPsIYWqsCknBR_UithvSpmp2YZgCKgB/s640/IMG_3172.JPG" width="627" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Official topo. Just a notice that grades of the junior wall at routes 5 and 6 are opposite. So 5-Voldemort is actually 6b and 6-Albus Silente is actually 5c. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AGJsMvixOMU/V2W99jndg4I/AAAAAAAAD80/3KVYdFiVebgJSRH3vMiL5r8pn4-FWhycgCKgB/s1600/wall-2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AGJsMvixOMU/V2W99jndg4I/AAAAAAAAD80/3KVYdFiVebgJSRH3vMiL5r8pn4-FWhycgCKgB/s640/wall-2.png" width="433" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kids wall, 9 routes 4-4b grades and 18-22 meters.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BzOB2rFYdq4/V2W-xwB7-UI/AAAAAAAAD9A/FKCwlGR9NLMCveIot7Z5p1UGQ_pgUhKhgCKgB/s1600/wall-1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BzOB2rFYdq4/V2W-xwB7-UI/AAAAAAAAD9A/FKCwlGR9NLMCveIot7Z5p1UGQ_pgUhKhgCKgB/s640/wall-1.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Junior wall, 4-6b and 9-15 meters.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2uXYZT7WFS8/V2W8wijNbYI/AAAAAAAAD8Q/h2XIROaERs0_9qFWH8fJrWCDwb7MfWy0ACKgB/s1600/MXQF8778.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2uXYZT7WFS8/V2W8wijNbYI/AAAAAAAAD8Q/h2XIROaERs0_9qFWH8fJrWCDwb7MfWy0ACKgB/s640/MXQF8778.jpg" width="484" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crag is only 20 minutes by feet from the center of Arco.</td></tr>
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<br />Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com038062 Arco, Province of Trento, Italia45.917860900000008 10.88557630000002545.89576790000001 10.845235800000026 45.939953900000006 10.925916800000024tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-12466132005780616452016-06-15T15:17:00.000-07:002016-06-17T03:17:58.827-07:00Roadtrip Helsinki-Arco 2016<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Roadtrip from Helsinki to Arco takes 3 days, two boat trips and 2500 kilometers. Year after year the trip shows the continent's different traditions, great sceneries and wonderful people. </b><b>It is an eye-opener and I always see something new that blows my mind.</b><br />
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<<Click the map to see the route>></div>
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/dir/Helsinki,+Suomi/Arco,+TN/@54.6491866,9.8954939,5z/data=!4m24!4m23!1m15!1m1!1s0x46920bc796210691:0xcd4ebd843be2f763!2m2!1d24.938379!2d60.1698557!3m4!1m2!1d17.9495857!2d59.3675503!3s0x465f9e7331c0f63b:0x7cc94e261c5b4f8f!3m4!1m2!1d10.9396796!2d54.324031!3s0x47b2804e7bbc3525:0x251f17c2dc6404c2!1m5!1m1!1s0x478211565cc435af:0xbcd6da353d039d91!2m2!1d10.8855763!2d45.9178609!3e0" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XrKCbP2sI88/V2MjzCfPzUI/AAAAAAAAD7E/DuYEXS7vCI8S3JvYftkhYn_-vx22Of8BwCKgB/s400/helsinki-arco-mappa.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<<See the roadtrip video from 2015>></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/PAThya-LUHw/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/PAThya-LUHw?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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<br />Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com038062 Arco, Trenton maakunta, Italia45.918086820254452 10.88645428144536745.907040820254451 10.866284281445367 45.929132820254452 10.906624281445367tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-67505833313890738302016-03-23T13:43:00.000-07:002016-03-30T14:08:29.012-07:00Switch from ice to rock faces at Regina del Lago<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ky3aZkwP0L0/Vvw21s-nl1I/AAAAAAAADtQ/bB5TVAipfaIvrD5bNd5DdDfl2GNjftWrw/s1600/IMG_0934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ky3aZkwP0L0/Vvw21s-nl1I/AAAAAAAADtQ/bB5TVAipfaIvrD5bNd5DdDfl2GNjftWrw/s400/IMG_0934.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/place/Pregasina+TN/@45.8655635,10.8136371,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x4782175edc2436bb:0x260709882e6ce371" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VQ0iZ4DImRE/Vvw5R1lRH3I/AAAAAAAADuE/VNv_pbin7T4S3OHxk7xEaJINxTUAv5BCw/s200/mappa-regina.JPG" width="172" /></a><b>After four days of ice climbing and two days of snowboarding it was time to switch the mode from ice to rock. This time of the year is a perfect for longer rock climbing routes to we headed down to Sarca valley and Arco.</b><br />
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After the longer ice climbing routes we decided to start with shorter 110 meter routes at Regina del Lago. Regina's Prima Fascia sector has great 4-6 pitch long routes with quick approach and easy exit. And actually after climbing a longer route you have three good option, head to the sport sectors, continue longer lines at the Regina del Lago C-sector or just walk down and start the next route.<br />
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This is the second time at the Prima Fascia sector and today we climbed two 6a lines, Via Settimo Cielo and Via Messalina. Both routes were enjoyable to climb and the belay stations were relaxed with excellent view over the valley below and Lake Garda.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C4iyRVm8azU/Vvw3kzUKY0I/AAAAAAAADto/YlAu6Xi7sOsiT0XVQnib0rftpiTqWU6mg/s1600/IMG_0989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C4iyRVm8azU/Vvw3kzUKY0I/AAAAAAAADto/YlAu6Xi7sOsiT0XVQnib0rftpiTqWU6mg/s400/IMG_0989.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nzHZiNNJ1oU/Vvw3OnqfRoI/AAAAAAAADtc/G76Ps-zPPx44VtEtjij_cz_VFz0BhD2Dw/s1600/IMG_0967.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nzHZiNNJ1oU/Vvw3OnqfRoI/AAAAAAAADtc/G76Ps-zPPx44VtEtjij_cz_VFz0BhD2Dw/s200/IMG_0967.JPG" width="150" /></a>Prima Fascia sector has 20 know routes and we also found some fresh ones too. Majority of the routes are bolted during last 5 to 10 years. But be aware some of them have trad pitches in the middle and few of the routes are complete alpine graded. I was also surprised about the wide range of grades in the routes. Easiest ones start from 5b and most difficult ones go as high as 7b. A great range of difficulties for a one sector.<br />
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After the 2nd visit at this sector I'm convinced that this is the best part of the Regina del Lago crag.<br />
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<b>See all photos:
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<tr><td align="center" style="background: url("https://www.gstatic.com/pwa/s/v/lighthousefe_20160316.01_p1/transparent_album_background.gif") no-repeat left; height: 194px;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/ReginaDelLagoMultipitchRoutes2332016?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite"><img height="160" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-05EOJ4vB_6A/Vvw21geQhaE/AAAAAAAADuE/rgycRryOY_E/s160-c-Ic42/ReginaDelLagoMultipitchRoutes2332016" style="margin: 1px 0 0 4px;" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/ReginaDelLagoMultipitchRoutes2332016?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Regina del Lago - multipitch routes, 23.3.2016</a></td></tr>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com0Riva del Garda, Trenton maakunta, Italia45.862639847649248 10.82324981689453145.85158184764925 10.803079816894531 45.873697847649247 10.843419816894531tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-15195876369496500722016-03-21T16:02:00.000-07:002016-03-23T16:13:17.010-07:00Colfosco and Pissadù ice fall<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/place/39033+Calfosch,+Province+of+Bolzano+-+South+Tyrol/@46.5258793,11.7763509,12.25z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x47783fb14fbd4961:0xa070989abe48be0" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YljgHxJrwUw/VvMdjh7j-BI/AAAAAAAADsc/kv-yWP6R3J4l6bObhT_MGAwrZUN2lcToQ/s200/mappa-colfosco.JPG" width="158" /></a><b><br /></b><br />
<b>Colfosco ice falls are below the great vertical faces of Sassongher and Sass de la Crusc. What a spectacular environment for climbing ice falls!</b><br />
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The approach to the ice falls is only 30 minutes. It is actually a short time to enjoy the surrounding views. Every step you take the mountains around you reminds how small humans are. A good reminder for a humble attitude.<br />
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But the climbing is good too. During this time of the year the ice fall was still in a good condition which is not necessarily the case every spring. The Pissadù ice fall has 3 logical pitches which make a total of 90 meters of climbable ice. Grade is not too hard 3+ and it is in shadow for most of the day.<br />
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The nature of the climb is a small adventure in a deep valley. Enjoyable and easy to access makes this ice fall a good reason to visit Colfosco. Climbing ice in a place like this makes us humble. Mi piace!<br />
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<tr><td align="center" style="background: url("https://www.gstatic.com/pwa/s/v/lighthousefe_20160316.01_p1/transparent_album_background.gif") no-repeat left; height: 194px;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/ColfoscoAndPissaduIceFall2132016?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite"><img height="160" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HXi3IB2BNgM/VvMbHhGByRE/AAAAAAAADss/PiBp_dyF1jY/s160-c-Ic42/ColfoscoAndPissaduIceFall2132016" style="margin: 1px 0 0 4px;" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/ColfoscoAndPissaduIceFall2132016?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Colfosco and Pissadù ice fall, 21.3.2016</a></td></tr>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com039033 Calfosch, Province of Bolzano - South Tyrol, Italia46.5534301 11.85461439999994646.5425106 11.834444399999946 46.5643496 11.874784399999946tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-9493682117439964242016-03-20T15:12:00.000-07:002016-03-23T15:26:22.110-07:00More fresh snow at Val di Fassa and Belvedere - Passo Pordoi<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lnUhPSXNnzQ/VvHDwTfFe2I/AAAAAAAADqM/T8CjPr1vMuMx62gWBxlCLrtd7hFGIOdMQ/s1600/IMG_3106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lnUhPSXNnzQ/VvHDwTfFe2I/AAAAAAAADqM/T8CjPr1vMuMx62gWBxlCLrtd7hFGIOdMQ/s400/IMG_3106.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7GbhrMpZ7_s/VvMQ108OwtI/AAAAAAAADrM/b7f1oF7_utcWyFC9a0qsDzGr2yivbOqUw/s1600/Pan_Val_di_Fassa_Sella_Ronda_APT_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7GbhrMpZ7_s/VvMQ108OwtI/AAAAAAAADrM/b7f1oF7_utcWyFC9a0qsDzGr2yivbOqUw/s320/Pan_Val_di_Fassa_Sella_Ronda_APT_web.jpg" width="320" /></a><b>Val di Fassa seems to have a great spring this year. While the snow dumps have been slowing up our ice climbing the snowboarding has been a pure joy. Of course some of the easy off pistes have been skied so that there is nothing left, but there was still plenty for us too.</b><br />
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Today we had the most spectacular view over Dolomites. The highest peak at the nearby area is he Sass Pordoi, 2950 meters. It is accessible via cable car and can be skied down. Magnificent views! A worthwhile Refugio to visit and have a coffee.<br />
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After all we got a pretty good impression of the Val di Fassa. Of course if you are hunting for lots of black slopes then this is not the best choice. But for the regular skiers, snowboarders or off piste skiers Val di Fassa has a lot to offer.<br />
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<tr><td style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/ValDiFassaAndBelvederePassoPordoi2032016?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Val di Fassa and Belvedere - Passo Pordoi, 20.3.2016</a></td></tr>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com0Canazei TN, Italia46.4767783 11.77036490000000446.4549083 11.730024400000005 46.4986483 11.810705400000003tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-19767651903633895632016-03-19T16:02:00.000-07:002016-03-21T16:06:48.339-07:00Santa Cristina and Cascata Tervela <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2UjZIgYwl3Q/VvB5X2avCcI/AAAAAAAADoo/YTZsDJXp-4c5nDKuTDLqP-gjnx2urzwaQ/s1600/IMG_0604.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2UjZIgYwl3Q/VvB5X2avCcI/AAAAAAAADoo/YTZsDJXp-4c5nDKuTDLqP-gjnx2urzwaQ/s400/IMG_0604.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Today's new ice fall to discover is in Val Gardena and Santa Cristina. Cascata Tarvela is a true drive in ice fall. Walk from the parking to the ice fall takes only 5-10 minutes. </b><br />
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/place/Santa+Cristina+Valgardena+BZ/@46.5444204,11.7200752,13.67z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x4778136248baa5db:0xd60b93a48456f1d4" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-02_knw4Gof4/VvB7ZNs8sLI/AAAAAAAADpU/i1ngXaLzTygV27EImLj2DhTMDVDCeW9ww/s200/mappa-santa-cristina.JPG" width="132" /></a></div>
Great ice fall that is quite easy to see from the city. It offers 1-2 pitch climbs on a varying grade from WI3 to WI4+. It is an ideal place to get used to the Dolomite ice and for the days when you don't want to take the long approaches.<br />
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The view over the city of Santa Cristine is also splendid during the spring. The opposite side of the city is almost clean form the snow while you can still climb on a ice fall. Big contrast!<br />
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For us the day at the Cascata Tervela offered a good opportunity to climb several single pitch climbs and get prepared for the next multi pitch. Good day and a great reason to see Santa Cristina.<br />
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<tr><td style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/SantaCristinaAndCascataTervela1932016?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Santa Cristina and Cascata Tervela, 19.3.2016</a></td></tr>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com0Santa Cristina Gherdëina, Province of Bolzano - South Tyrol, Italia46.552958186495715 11.72309875488281246.531117686495712 11.682758254882813 46.574798686495718 11.763439254882812tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-24114536534952700812016-03-17T15:07:00.000-07:002016-06-08T14:16:02.338-07:00Fresh snow at Val di Fassa - Ciampac - Buffaure<b><br /></b>
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<b>Spring and fresh snow is not a guaranteed combination in the southern alps and Dolomites. But for some reason we have been lucky with the snow conditions for several times in a row. Our first snowboarding day at the Val di Fassa was blessed with good snow and a perfect weather to enjoy it! </b></div>
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/place/38032+Alba+TN/@46.4357185,11.7283153,12.5z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x47786a098442280b:0x489a7f2f754c9de8" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FlVowlVoyJw/Vu8a43Lk-aI/AAAAAAAADoE/vxQMhjbtbnU3xN2sNJ6ttRXBQ09gdZd-A/s200/mappa-canazei.JPG" width="193" /></a>Val di Fassa is part of the huge <a href="http://www.dolomitisuperski.com/" target="_blank">Dolomite Super Ski</a> resort but it is a nice and a big resort as is! Resort offers enough pistes for a 4-6 days of skiing or snowboarding.<br />
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The skiing resorts at the Dolomite mountains seem to share the same slope characteristics. Lots of good red lines and just few black ones with plenty of easy access off piste skiing for all skill levels. And the facilities in general are very good starting from the beginner slopes, snow parks and ending up to the lifts and restaurants.The specialty at the Dolomite Super Ski is the six days ski tour over the Dolomite mountains or if that is too long then you can always take the one day tour over the Val di Fassa.<br />
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We didn't took the ski tour today but instead of that we found lots of easy to access off-piste routes with untouched snow. Great day in a beautiful mountain scenery!</div>
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<tr><td align="center" style="background: url("https://www.gstatic.com/pwa/s/v/lighthousefe_20160316.01_p1/transparent_album_background.gif") no-repeat left; height: 194px;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/ValDiFassaAndCiampacBuffaure1732016?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite"><img height="160" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rr8iuuYLJA0/Vu8Xb2W42OE/AAAAAAAADoA/GzEO7qYj3ig/s160-c-Ic42/ValDiFassaAndCiampacBuffaure1732016" style="margin: 1px 0 0 4px;" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/ValDiFassaAndCiampacBuffaure1732016?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Val di Fassa and Ciampac - Buffaure, 17.3.2016</a></td></tr>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com0Canazei, Trenton maakunta, Italia46.457727482196063 11.76498413085937546.435851982196063 11.724643630859376 46.479602982196063 11.805324630859374tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-43250903242022124512016-03-16T15:45:00.000-07:002016-03-19T16:05:54.112-07:00Cascata di Fontanazzo di destra - ice screw tested!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B2BcN8LdBjs/Vu3POYfr1eI/AAAAAAAADlE/iC883m-wegsqmOUY4nJE62xx1opj3ULRQ/s1600/IMG_0511-a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B2BcN8LdBjs/Vu3POYfr1eI/AAAAAAAADlE/iC883m-wegsqmOUY4nJE62xx1opj3ULRQ/s400/IMG_0511-a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Time for an ice fall multi-pitch climb. Our target was in just behind of the small village Fontnazzo - Cascata di Fontanazzo di destra or Bus de Tone as locals call it. Climb follows a small creek that that connects a sequence of 5 ice falls into a nice multi-pitch graded WI4.</b><br />
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/@46.485329,11.7426121,13z" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="140" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FrGrZxwQ6Ng/Vu3SxnDG09I/AAAAAAAADmY/yZ4wM3618U8MKkuJiPRsDuj02CYPYQMiQ/s320/mappa-fontanazzo.JPG" width="320" /></a> Approach to the climb takes about 30 minutes from the parking just next to the little bridge near a kids playground just behind Fontanazzo village. Right spot is easy to recognize because the alternative climb Cascata di Fontanazzo di sinistra shows on the forest face.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e-WXDOvVz4k/Vu3Qj1qhhgI/AAAAAAAADlw/BUnj-XC7XIoxcIPR-6yerriu1Js_yAfpw/s1600/G0215344.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e-WXDOvVz4k/Vu3Qj1qhhgI/AAAAAAAADlw/BUnj-XC7XIoxcIPR-6yerriu1Js_yAfpw/s200/G0215344.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Approach was slightly harder due the fresh snow but nothing overwhelming there. This time of the year the first pitch started from an open creek so getting wet would have been easy.<br />
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The 250 meter long route is mostly WI3 and only the last pitch is getting harder. But it does not mean that it is a walk in the park. The amount of snow was the hardest part and opening the ice was energy consuming duty for the leader.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9-UenoXJTB0/Vu3PtRiyiBI/AAAAAAAADlU/kXe0PSQQLSEzyxF9xbFgaoUAORdq-wyMg/s1600/IMG_0485.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9-UenoXJTB0/Vu3PtRiyiBI/AAAAAAAADlU/kXe0PSQQLSEzyxF9xbFgaoUAORdq-wyMg/s320/IMG_0485.JPG" width="240" /></a>The fresh snow was also causing the first serious danger during our winter holiday. On the 1st pitch the snow packed so that the grip to the ice was partially lost when screwing the second protection. The axe and crampons failed at a same time. That caused an upside down fall towards the creek. Luckily the screw hold and the bones and muscles did not got any hits from axe or screws! Ice climb leader must not fall!<br />
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Rest of the route went without any "close call" situations and we were able to enjoy the dolomite winter on its best!<br />
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<tr><td align="center" style="background: url("https://www.gstatic.com/pwa/s/v/lighthousefe_20160316.01_p1/transparent_album_background.gif") no-repeat left; height: 194px;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/CascataDiFontanazzoDiDestra1632016?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite"><img height="160" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gqlEOEqu_ZE/Vu3POfkXx7E/AAAAAAAADmA/2lclAJHa1xY/s160-c-Ic42/CascataDiFontanazzoDiDestra1632016" style="margin: 1px 0 0 4px;" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/CascataDiFontanazzoDiDestra1632016?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Cascata di Fontanazzo di destra, 16.3.2016</a></td></tr>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-46824728830933243762016-03-15T14:45:00.000-07:002016-03-18T15:43:36.209-07:00Serrai di Sottoguda<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uFH7b1mBTKE/Vux_EYhlZRI/AAAAAAAADjA/l49o7cgKl7Ew6q-b1dQQlDSbLfqDqV5-Q/s1600/DSC03326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uFH7b1mBTKE/Vux_EYhlZRI/AAAAAAAADjA/l49o7cgKl7Ew6q-b1dQQlDSbLfqDqV5-Q/s400/DSC03326.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Finally we got back to Italy and this time for a winter holiday. Early spring in the Dolomites is not </b><b>necessarily the best season for ice climbing or skiing on powder but as usual we got lucky. During the last weeks the weather has been great and it has been snowing some fresh powder too.</b><br />
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/place/32020+Sottoguda+BL/@46.4269788,11.9189546,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x477845d06bf7284b:0x80a9e8fa94de5e88" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f3zO_ILqlG0/Vux_F6xqJ_I/AAAAAAAADjE/N2XKwHKZya8nqRkyXLYT3E1-smHLRz6xA/s200/mappa-sottoguda.JPG" width="191" /></a>Our 1st target was to go to Serrai di Sottoguda which is a perfect place for easy to approach ice climbing. It is probably the most visited site in the region too. We started our trip with guide friend Alessandro from <a href="http://www.mountime.com/" target="_blank">Mountime</a> to get our skills polished and to gain some knowledge from the local ice falls and their conditions at this time of a year.<br />
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Deep valley at Serrai di Sottoguda is nicely in the shadows. This shady valley lets the ice falls last longer during the sping and gives an opportunity to climb relatively safely even during mid March. Some of the routes like Excalibur starts on top of a small creek but even then the access of the routes is super easy.<br />
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Valley has a nice set of different ice falls in length and difficulties. During the climbing it is a good to remember that the path at the valley is also a popular skiing path so beware of skiers. Over the day we got lots of skiers watching our climbs and they even wanted to take photos with us. I didn't knew that few amateur ice climbers and a guide can attract more than 15 people just watching!<br />
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During the first day we climbed several single pitches and 3 pitches of <span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">la Diagonale and 1st 40 meter pitch of the Excalibur.</span> It was also nice to see that most of the routes have also bolted anchors.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mxUpAkvNR2A/Vux-CRe3k_I/AAAAAAAADi4/DJMUQVucqv4-bPZFUjMALet57NnP7jLJQ/s1600/b-IMG_2932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mxUpAkvNR2A/Vux-CRe3k_I/AAAAAAAADi4/DJMUQVucqv4-bPZFUjMALet57NnP7jLJQ/s400/b-IMG_2932.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skiers looking at the climbers!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mika's WI4 top pitch at the Diagonale</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climber's view on WI4 top pitch at the Diagonale</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top view over the canyon.</td></tr>
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<b>See all photos:</b><br />
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<tr><td align="center" style="background: url("https://www.gstatic.com/pwa/s/v/lighthousefe_20160316.01_p1/transparent_album_background.gif") no-repeat left; height: 194px;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/SerraiDiSottoguda1532016?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite"><img height="160" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LdSrtskljL4/Vux-ADQ5qXE/AAAAAAAADjQ/5ZWm_zMXPi8/s160-c-Ic42/SerraiDiSottoguda1532016" style="margin: 1px 0 0 4px;" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/SerraiDiSottoguda1532016?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Serrai di Sottoguda,15.3.2016</a></td></tr>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com032020 Sottoguda BL, Italia46.425665300000013 11.92993419999993420.903630800000013 -29.378659800000065 71.947699800000009 53.238528199999934tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-32891277049731346122015-07-09T14:30:00.000-07:002015-08-04T14:51:26.665-07:00Besagno - north west but not the best<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5r9VgQ0LtpY/VcEx-PNF9YI/AAAAAAAADeY/4_iyxA-lFBg/s1600/IMG_1506c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5r9VgQ0LtpY/VcEx-PNF9YI/AAAAAAAADeY/4_iyxA-lFBg/s400/IMG_1506c.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/BesagnoMori972015?authuser=0&feat=directlink" target="_blank">If you just want to see the photos then click here</a></b><br />
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<b>Sometimes you find yourself from a crag that looks good on paper but in reality it turns out to be something else. Besagno was such an experience for us.</b><br />
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/dir/45.8380966,10.9671444/45.9197831,10.8928696/@45.9362803,10.9517513,12.25z/data=!4m2!4m1!3e0" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eLsM8q1jBfc/VcEybnd6szI/AAAAAAAADeg/S11HP7JS8WQ/s200/mappa.PNG" width="164" /></a>Besagno is located behind Mori on 420 meters and facing north west. Approach is short and easy and crag has total of 31 routes making it promising enough for a visit. And on top of that guidebook tells that it is recently bolted and not too often visited and now we know why.<br />
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Crag has nice set of long routes from 5 to 7b and most of them are in the range of 6. But then the downside. More than stiff grading and partially polished rock makes this crag hard for medium level climbers. Several routes were graded too easy on the crag and even the upgraded grades in the guidbook were optimistic.<br />
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Hard climbing with polished rock on the easier starts is not my kind of climbing. Crag may turn out ok for better climbers. So if you are solid 7a climber then you can try but if grade 6 is your beef then pick another crag for the day.<br />
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<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;"><u>Crag grade: 2+/5</u></b><br />
<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;">Rock quality: 2+/5<br />Bolting: 3/5<br />Surroundings: 3/5<br />Approach: 5/5</b><br />
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<b>See all photos:</b><br />
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<tr><td align="center" style="background: url(https://www.gstatic.com/pwa/s/v/lighthousefe_20150712.00_p0/transparent_album_background.gif) no-repeat left; height: 194px;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/BesagnoMori972015?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite"><img height="160" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N2AFaT7tHzw/VcEwFAz4SBE/AAAAAAAADeo/gcAn-wH17lc/s160-c-Ic42/BesagnoMori972015.jpg" style="margin: 1px 0 0 4px;" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/BesagnoMori972015?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Besagno, Mori, 9.7.2015</a></td></tr>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com0Mori, Province of Trento, Italy45.836322056977636 10.96711312636716745.814196556977635 10.926772626367168 45.858447556977637 11.007453626367166tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-90456315793679159822015-07-08T13:16:00.000-07:002015-07-26T14:17:40.542-07:00Little big Serrada<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8CvduScSzJM/VbVLRWrcIiI/AAAAAAAADc8/MafyjKTI2U8/s1600/IMG_1432c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="303" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8CvduScSzJM/VbVLRWrcIiI/AAAAAAAADc8/MafyjKTI2U8/s400/IMG_1432c.jpg" width="400" /></a><b>South face for a hot day rock climbing doesn't sound too attractive but <a href="http://www.serrada.it/207/come_arrivare.asp" target="_blank">Serrada</a>'s crag nearby Rovereto is a worthwhile to visit even during the hot season. At least partially shady crag at the woods on 1250 meters sounds promising.</b><br />
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Serrada is not the closest crag from Arco. Car drive to there takes about an hour but then the access from the parking is only 10 minutes. To the first routes the total approach time is still reasonable.<br />
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Serrada has almost 80 routes which makes it huge in number of routes. At the same time routes are packed closely in a pleasant environment makes it enjoyable environment. So it is a perfect setup for families or climbers who don't want to take too long walks before getting to the wall.<br />
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<a href="https://www.google.fi/maps/dir/45.887998,11.153953/''/Arco,+Trenton+maakunta,+Italia/@45.854111,11.0157514,10.75z/data=!4m13!4m12!1m0!1m3!2m2!1d11.1539555!2d45.8879993!1m5!1m1!1s0x478211565cc435af:0xbcd6da353d039d91!2m2!1d10.8855763!2d45.9178609!3e0?hl=fi" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KnXeaszeMLM/VbVKvQjjsZI/AAAAAAAADc0/Y3-gZuSH75k/s1600/mappa.PNG" /></a></div>
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Routes have a varying length from 10 meters up to 30 meters so there is good set of different alternatives to choose from. Difficulty of the routes starts from 4 and ends up to 7b but best offering is between 6a to 6c. Stil there is enough for beginners and few 7 graded routes for better climbers.<br />
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Rock quality varied from slightly polished to little less polished and well climbable. If you are looking for untouched limestone then Serrada is not your crag. But most of the routes are in good enough condition for climbing. And as usual the style of the climbing route dictates how much that bothers. I would say that I enjoyed most of the time and pre-clipped only one route because of polished holds at the start.<br />
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Nice place, not a gem but plenty of different routes with an easy access and a pleasant environment. Worthwhile to check out if all the fresh rock walls are already climbed and you are not afraid of long legged spiders ;)<br />
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<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;"><u>Crag grade: 4-/5</u></b><br />
<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;">Rock quality: 3/5<br />Bolting: 4+/5<br />Surroundings: 4+/5<br />Approach: 5/5</b><br />
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<tr><td align="center" style="background: url(https://www.gstatic.com/pwa/s/v/lighthousefe_20150712.00_p0/transparent_album_background.gif) no-repeat left; height: 194px;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/SerradaRovereto872015?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite"><img height="160" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YVGPqlCFM5Y/VbVEd1vM-nE/AAAAAAAADc8/XBS4opZK8js/s160-c-Ic42/SerradaRovereto872015.jpg" style="margin: 1px 0 0 4px;" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/SerradaRovereto872015?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Serrada, Rovereto, 8.7.2015</a></td></tr>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com038064 Serrada TN, Italy45.8904203 11.15371670000001845.8793688 11.133546700000018 45.9014718 11.173886700000018tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-2591908441133201672015-07-07T01:51:00.000-07:002015-07-25T03:22:45.890-07:00Looking for a shade from Valli Giudicarie and Comano<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b><br /></b><b><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/ComanoValliGiudicarie772015?authuser=0&feat=directlink" target="_blank">If you just want to see the photos then click here>></a></b><br />
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<b>Rumors tells that we are enjoying the hottest summer in Italy in 136 years. Our car shows +43 Celcius degrees, crazy. Now our challenge is to find a reasonable place where to climb without dehydration and sunburns.</b><br />
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/dir/Arco+TN/Sarche+TN/46.0296389,10.893089/@45.9904274,10.8806179,12z/data=!4m15!4m14!1m5!1m1!1s0x478211565cc435af:0xbcd6da353d039d91!2m2!1d10.8855763!2d45.9178609!1m5!1m1!1s0x47826c473c2d2cf1:0x12e3f09e83e8d63d!2m2!1d10.9523964!2d46.0471114!1m0!3e0" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zSfEHF_GPr4/VbNaz1kBeqI/AAAAAAAADag/KCDhr9iPWvk/s320/mappa.PNG" width="162" /></a>Valli Giudicarie has pastures, woods and wild beauty and pure nature and silence. North west facing <br />
crag is located nearby the relaxed small village Comano at the high altitude of 850 meters. Access is easy and quick. Even thou it takes about 40 minutes from Arco by car but then after parking only few minutes by feet.</div>
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Once we got there the temperature was showing only +30 Celcius degrees so the drop from 43 degrees was significant.<br />
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Comano has total of 29 routes around 15 to 20 meters high. Difficulty of the routes is wide starting from 4 and going up to the 8a majority of the routes being in the range of 6c to 7c. So this crag has plenty to offer from a bit better climbers. Still as a hot day visit crag has enough routes to try for a low to medium level athletes too. There is total of 3 routes below 6 and total of 6 6a-6b routes to be climbed.</div>
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Rock quality varies between routes and the bolting is good standard. Some of the routes might be just slightly polished but nothing that prevents climbing. Just be careful with the grades showing on the crag that not always showing the right difficulty. Latest 2015 edition of the Versante Sud Arco Rock had the corrected difficulties that were much more precise.</div>
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Comano is a nice crag to visit during hot days or if you are looking for new challenges. Not a classic but offers good climbing on partially overhanging walls with a wide level of difficulties. Good alternative for hot afternoons.<br />
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<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;"><u>Crag grade: 3+/5</u></b><br />
<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;">Rock quality: 3+/5<br />Bolting: 4/5<br />Surroundings: 5/5<br />Approach: 5/5</b><br />
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<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/ComanoValliGiudicarie772015?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Comano, Valli Giudicarie, 7.7.2015</a></td></tr>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com038077 Comano TN, Italy46.0347477 10.89287039999999346.0292362 10.882785399999992 46.040259199999994 10.902955399999993tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-12809592068977952882015-07-05T16:11:00.000-07:002015-07-17T16:54:23.596-07:00Breathtaking views from Sentiero Gustavo Vidi<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CptNlLNsZDo/Vag-chfgZMI/AAAAAAAADXo/6iIEvmwMFkA/s1600/IMG_1268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CptNlLNsZDo/Vag-chfgZMI/AAAAAAAADXo/6iIEvmwMFkA/s400/IMG_1268.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/SentieroGustavoVidiMadonnaDiCampiglio572015?authuser=0&feat=directlink" target="_blank">If you just want to see the photos then click here</a></b>
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<b>Looking for a breathtaking day trek at the Brenta Dolomites? Well we have an excellent proposal or you. Go to Madonna di Campiglio and take the two-stage gondola up to Rifugio Stoppani and head towards Sentiero Gustavo Vidi.</b><br />
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/dir/Arco+TN/Sarche+TN/46.2370062,10.8354681/@46.1622133,10.6055072,10.5z/data=!4m15!4m14!1m5!1m1!1s0x478211565cc435af:0xbcd6da353d039d91!2m2!1d10.8855763!2d45.9178609!1m5!1m1!1s0x47826c473c2d2cf1:0x12e3f09e83e8d63d!2m2!1d10.9523964!2d46.0471114!1m0!3e0?hl=fi" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qHIeEzA7-Pk/Vag_3ToOrFI/AAAAAAAADYA/8CQIe_ftGdE/s320/mappa.PNG" width="166" /></a>Sentiero Gustavo Vidi can be counted as a very easy via ferrata but in real life it is more of a mountain walk with some protected sections. But don't let that fool you. Sentiero has a lot to offer on great heights at 2660 meters.<br />
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What makes this route quick is the fast gondola access directly from Madonna di Campiglio up to the Passo del Groste. It is a good idea to prepare schedules so that you are heading up before the siesta between 12-14 and be back at the middle gondola station before 17:00 when they close the line.<br />
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Route starts at 200 meters north-east from the Rifugio Stoppani where is a clear sign pointing towards the beginning of the trail. Trail ascents about 250 meters and descents down to the Groste middle station about 500 meters in about 3-4 hours. During the walk there is about 500 meters of ferrata cables.<br />
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Route itself offers a good way to get used to the heights at mountains and trekking on the ridges. On some parts the route is narrow with steep walls on the sides and thus requires careful walking.<br />
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Sentiero Gustavo Vidi is a perfect way to get an overview of the spectacular Dolomite mountains even for ferrata beginners. For experienced ferrata trekkers or climbers the route is very easy but just the spectacular surroundings justify to complete the route. During the early summer few parts of the route might go cross snowy or icy sections and it is a good idea to check the status of the route if you are heading there during the early summer. And as usual at the the mountains weather conditions should be good before attempting this one. Recommended, one of the best experiences you can have during a day visit at the Brenta Dolomites.<br />
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<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;"><u>Ferrata grade: 5/5</u></b><br />
<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;">Route quality: 5/5<br />Security: 3/5<br />Surroundings/views: 5/5<br />Approach: 5/5</b><br />
<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;">Exit: 5/5</b><br />
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<tr><td align="center" style="background: url(https://www.gstatic.com/pwa/s/v/lighthousefe_20150712.00_p0/transparent_album_background.gif) no-repeat left; height: 194px;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/SentieroGustavoVidiMadonnaDiCampiglio572015?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite"><img height="160" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v6cq3xZYBJ0/Vag9Iosv9VE/AAAAAAAADZI/ZDlmQkbsyn4/s160-c-Ic42/SentieroGustavoVidiMadonnaDiCampiglio572015.jpg" style="margin: 1px 0 0 4px;" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/SentieroGustavoVidiMadonnaDiCampiglio572015?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Sentiero Gustavo Vidi, Madonna di Campiglio, 5.7.2015</a></td></tr>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com0Parco Naturale Adamello Brenta, Strada Statale 239, 38080 Strembo TN, Italy46.216743193227295 10.90427398681640646.194772193227294 10.863933486816407 46.238714193227295 10.944614486816405tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-41418735071875259782015-07-01T15:35:00.000-07:002015-07-12T15:51:59.484-07:00East but used - Giardino di Nato<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>East facing walls have been our passion during this summer. The endless research of potential cool summer crags lead us this time to the Giardino di Nato that is only 12 kilometers from Arco just next to the Pietramurata at 440 meters above sea level. </b><br />
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/dir/46.0229146,10.936648/46.0196225,10.941189/Arco+Trento/@45.9867025,10.6786486,12.25z/data=!4m10!4m9!1m0!1m0!1m5!1m1!1s0x478211565cc435af:0xbcd6da353d039d91!2m2!1d10.8855763!2d45.9178609!3e0" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yE9VMPFZCIE/VaLtCptXwmI/AAAAAAAADWE/7sxbdnMace8/s200/mappa.PNG" width="110" /></a>Crag has developed by the Sisyphos Group and Giardino di Nato is similar in the style with other Sisyphos walls when it comes to bolting, grades and lines. So overall 1st hand impression is good. And the location of the crag is perfect, east face in the middle of the woods so the temperature is pleasing even during the hottest summer days.<br />
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Crag has total of 25 routes from 5c to 7b on the yellow and partially overhanging walls. Length of the routes is usually around 20 meters but there are couple of 2nd pitches which are shorter. Specification looks perfect on paper.<br />
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But then the downside. Good walls attract climbers and somehow yellow limestone has a tendency to get polished easily. That was the biggest issue at Giardino di Nato. It is not the most polished wall like Massone but still some of the more technical lines were really hard to climb due the polished rock. At the same time few of the more adventurous lines such as Il Giardino Di Nato was completely climbable due the style of the climbing. But the good news is that based on the amount of spider's web it looks like a that it hasn't been climbed in this decade.<br />
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Interesting and good looking lines but more technical ones have become hard to climb just because of the polished rock. Mixed feeling, I would like to climb in a place like this but with fresh rock. <br />
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<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;"><u>Crag grade: 3/5</u></b><br />
<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;">Rock quality: 3/5<br />Bolting: 4/5<br />Surroundings: 4/5<br />Approach: 4/5</b><br />
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<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/GiordinoDiNato172015?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Giordino di Nato, 1.7.2015</a></td></tr>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com038074 Pietramurata Trento, Italy46.0181969 10.94741120000003345.9961449 10.907070700000034 46.0402489 10.987751700000032tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-5699391943185823362015-06-28T15:58:00.000-07:002015-07-10T16:07:33.468-07:00Dolomitic limestone at Molveno<b><br /></b>
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<b><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/MolvenoSAntonio2862015?authuser=0&feat=directlink" target="_blank">If you just want to see the photos then click here</a></b><br />
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<b>Our journey to find shady crags good quality rock to climb carries on. So far we have been lucky with our picks and most of the carefully selected crags have been enjoyable. Today's pick was Molveno S. Antonio nearby the Brenta Dolomites a</b> <b>crag that is dedicated to the memory of local alpinist Luca Sartori.</b><br />
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<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/dir/Arco+TN/38018+Molveno+TN/@46.0192171,10.7472458,11z/data=!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x478211565cc435af:0xbcd6da353d039d91!2m2!1d10.8855763!2d45.9178609!1m5!1m1!1s0x47826f56193de779:0x513ed0f50fd153c2!2m2!1d10.9651455!2d46.1417344!3e0" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-47j9w4w0f80/VaBH1mPEEYI/AAAAAAAADUo/Szhm1FHHtsY/s320/mappa.PNG" width="136" /></a>Molveno is an east facing crag taking 50 minutes from Arco by car. It is located at a high altitude of a <br />
900 meters above sea level so it is well climbable during hot summer days. It is one of the alpinist style of crags like Coltura and Croz de la Niere. You can almost taste the golden age of alpinism at Molveno where Brenta Dolomites are dominating the skyline.<br />
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When it comes to the climbing Molveno the limestone is more compact and Dolomite's style here. Crag looks good on paper. Total of 47 lines starting from 4 and going up to 7c and most of the lines are more than 20 meters long.<br />
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Rock face looks actually good and the styles of the line have definitely some character. But then the downside. It looks like that all the local climbers and growing young alpinists have been training a lot here. Many lines were polished from the beginning thou there were also better quality lines. And at the same time bolting was distant in most of the lines. Distant bolting on a slippery rock makes the 1st few clips hard on some of the routes.<br />
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Not an easy crag due the distant bolting and polished rock. Sad because crag has great potential to be interesting challenge. It is not a must place to visit but if you happen to be nearby or just want to get a shady crag then you may want to check it out.<br />
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<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;"><u>Crag grade: 3/5</u></b><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;" /><b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;">Rock quality: 3/5<br />Bolting: 3/5<br />Surroundings: 5/5<br />Approach: 4/5</b><br />
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<tr><td align="center" style="background: url(https://www.gstatic.com/pwa/s/v/lighthousefe_20150708.00_p0/transparent_album_background.gif) no-repeat left; height: 194px;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/MolvenoSAntonio2862015?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite"><img height="160" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EPhcoZDJR4A/VaA_FjKyRyE/AAAAAAAADUw/dMYHVh1V420/s160-c-Ic42/MolvenoSAntonio2862015.jpg" style="margin: 1px 0 0 4px;" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/MolvenoSAntonio2862015?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Molveno S. Antonio, 28.6.2015</a></td></tr>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com038018 Molveno TN, Italy46.1417344 10.96514550000006246.1307329 10.944975500000062 46.152735899999996 10.985315500000063tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-34319742478223064212015-06-26T15:29:00.000-07:002015-06-29T16:34:02.205-07:00Trekking at Brenta Dolomites<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zvUTIKYSJP0/VZEa94t6U6I/AAAAAAAADQ0/rCSo59Tba2c/s1600/IMG_0855.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="372" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zvUTIKYSJP0/VZEa94t6U6I/AAAAAAAADQ0/rCSo59Tba2c/s400/IMG_0855.JPG" width="560" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b><b><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/BrentaDolomites2662015?authuser=0&feat=directlink" target="_blank">If you just want to see the photos then click here</a></b><br />
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<b>Sometimes when the weather gets just too hot in Arco and it is better to head up to the breathtaking Dolomites and enjoy one of the most beautiful mountain landscapes in the world. Today we had such a day with a perfect bright blue sky to have a visit in one of the rare natural heritage locations.</b><br />
<a href="https://www.google.it/maps/dir/Arco+TN/Sarche+TN/Madonna+di+Campiglio+TN/@45.7667141,10.9383225,9z/data=!4m20!4m19!1m5!1m1!1s0x478211565cc435af:0xbcd6da353d039d91!2m2!1d10.8855763!2d45.9178609!1m5!1m1!1s0x47826c473c2d2cf1:0x12e3f09e83e8d63d!2m2!1d10.9523964!2d46.0471114!1m5!1m1!1s0x47825c24ffd4c305:0x877b464e09d9120f!2m2!1d10.826401!2d46.2302584!3e0?hl=fi" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RuEuA9tAVSQ/VZHCuG7NTOI/AAAAAAAADSg/xxqxBp9_EQE/s200/mapa-26-5-2015.PNG" width="142" /></a><br />
Madonna di Campiglio and Brenta Dolomites are only 70 kilomiters and 1,5 hours away from Arco so driving there takes time but is reasonable for a day trip.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZP07nI7T6KE/VZHDFpnT4zI/AAAAAAAADSo/rbmte4esiY4/s1600/G0023293.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZP07nI7T6KE/VZHDFpnT4zI/AAAAAAAADSo/rbmte4esiY4/s320/G0023293.JPG" width="320" /></a>To speed up our schedules and to maximize the time at the top we took the ski lift from Madonna di Campiglio to the top Rifugio Stoppani. Our goal was to have a half a day trekking at paths leaving from the rifugio. At the same time we had excellent opportunity to scout the snow conditions between the the Pietra Grande and Cima del Groste peaks and find the entry points of the nearby via ferratas.<br />
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There are numerous excellent ferratas at the Brenta area and two of them can be easily accessed from and to Rifugio Stoppani. The first one of them is easy but breathtaking ferrata <a href="http://www.visittrentino.it/en/cosa_fare/sport/dettagli/dett/ferrata-gustavo-e-natale-vidi-sentiero-costanzi" target="_blank">Sentiero Gustavo e Natale Vidi</a>. It can be completed from the Rifugio Stoppani to the Rifugio Groste and then to the middle lift station in about 3 hours. During the time of our visit ferrata was completely accessible without snow gear.<br />
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<a href="http://www.visittrentino.it/en/cosa_fare/sport/dettagli/dett/sentiero-attrezzato-alfredo-benini" target="_blank">Sentiero Alfredo Benini</a> is 2nd alternative for a one day session from Rifugio Stoppani to Rif. Tuckett and then back to Rif. Stoppani that can be completed in about 6 hours. Sentiero Alfredo Benini is more demanding but still relatively easy ferrata. During the time of our visit it was partially covered by snow and crampons are usually recommended for the route.<br />
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What can I say, we had an excellent half a day trekking session in a breathtaking scenery! Definitely recommended and just remember to have a camera with you when visiting the region!<br />
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<b>See all photos:</b><br />
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<tr><td align="center" style="background: url(https://www.gstatic.com/pwa/s/v/lighthousefe_20150624.00_p1/transparent_album_background.gif) no-repeat left; height: 194px;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/BrentaDolomites2662015?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite"><img height="160" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SZo9jphfi4Y/VZEZpTWqTmE/AAAAAAAADTI/K005yoY1eqs/s160-c/BrentaDolomites2662015.jpg" style="margin: 1px 0 0 4px;" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/BrentaDolomites2662015?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Brenta Dolomites, 26.6.2015</a></td></tr>
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<br />Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com0Madonna di Campiglio TN, Italy46.2302584 10.82640100000003346.208287399999996 10.786060500000033 46.2522294 10.866741500000032tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8712256527672795503.post-29378318771049440082015-06-25T16:10:00.000-07:002016-06-08T07:32:39.634-07:00Via Ferrata Monte Albano is open again<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Via Ferratas offers a quick and nice way to enjoy great views and heights without too much of a hassle. Instead of a multipitch climbing we decided to take a break from the normal routines and head to the Via Ferrata Monte Albano - Ottorini Marangoni. </b><br />
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<a href="https://www.google.fi/maps/dir/Arco+TN,+Italia/38068+Trambileno+TN,+Italia/45.8526928,11.0899929/@45.9886432,11.480354,10z/data=!4m15!4m14!1m5!1m1!1s0x478211565cc435af:0xbcd6da353d039d91!2m2!1d10.8855763!2d45.9178609!1m5!1m1!1s0x4782091ec9501d6d:0x79d1fd688a49c84a!2m2!1d11.0741615!2d45.8672982!1m0!3e0" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5C_XxlBzspU/VY8lnzdvOpI/AAAAAAAADQI/XTSS_foTPLU/s200/mappa.PNG" width="200" /></a>Monte Albano's ferrata has a respectable reputation but it has been closed since 2011. Luckily the <br />
long maintenance project has been finally completed and route has been re-opened recently. We have been actually waiting several years to get there and now finally we got the long waited opportunity in our hands.<br />
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Route has been told to be the hardest outside higher Dolomite mountains by offering lots of open air. Route's grade is the hardest even it is only 350 meters long. Highest altitude at the end of the route is around 600 meters and the estimated time to complete the route is 4-5 hours including ascent and exit.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-saS1Bda29Bo/VY8ijmeFhrI/AAAAAAAADOw/5Y9B36r5-dY/s1600/G0062843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-saS1Bda29Bo/VY8ijmeFhrI/AAAAAAAADOw/5Y9B36r5-dY/s200/G0062843.JPG" width="200" /></a>It seems that the route has been improved a lot during the maintenance and some of the old route <br />
descriptions are not valid anymore. At the same time the surroundings have been improved too and there is an excellent boulder park with picnic tables and a public toilet just a few hundred meters before the ferrata.<br />
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For me it looked like that the beginning the route has been secured better than before as well are the airy traverses. Overall safety of the route is now in an good level. That may have turn the route slightly easier than before but we are not speaking about a Sunday walk here!<br />
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Route has splendid and exposed traverses what it has been known for. Lots and lots of open air around while traversing over the city of Mori makes this legend worthwhile to be experienced. And this route is not for a first timers. Having a good head for exposed rock walls and heights and some stamina is required.<br />
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We completed the route in about four hours and it could be completed even faster if you don't spend too much time for taking photos like we did. Recommended definitely!<br />
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<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;"><u>Ferrata grade: 5/5</u></b><br />
<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;">Route quality: 5/5<br />Security: 4/5<br />Surroundings/views: 5/5<br />Approach: 5/5</b><br />
<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.1999998092651px; line-height: 18.4799995422363px;">Exit: 5/5</b><br />
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<table style="width: 194px;"><tbody>
<tr><td align="center" style="background: url(https://www.gstatic.com/pwa/s/v/lighthousefe_20150624.00_p1/transparent_album_background.gif) no-repeat left; height: 194px;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/MonteAlbanoOttoriniMarangoni2562015?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite"><img height="160" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SQg7TPDIImA/VY8h6vEdgGE/AAAAAAAADP0/XBVB6Jf2CYY/s160-c/MonteAlbanoOttoriniMarangoni2562015.jpg" style="margin: 1px 0 0 4px;" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102638578117179027198/MonteAlbanoOttoriniMarangoni2562015?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite" style="color: #4d4d4d; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Monte Albano - Ottorini Marangoni, 25.6.2015</a></td></tr>
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Mika Huhtamakihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15218495377759929460noreply@blogger.com038065 Mori TN, Italy45.8513894 10.97878609999997945.829270900000004 10.93844559999998 45.8735079 11.019126599999979