maanantai 22. kesäkuuta 2015

Moon bears on the wall of Limarò in Sarche

Mika Huhtamaki

If you just want to see the photos then click here

Looking for a great 9 pitches 1/2 day climb on a nice environment and with a 5 minutes approach. Well you have it. Piccolo Dain and the wall of Limarò in Sarche offers several great 9-11 pitch routes for a relaxed multipitch adventure.

We have been climbing at the wall before. Two years ago our crew topped Amazzonia (5c, 2005) and Orizzonti Dolomitici (5b, 2003). We liked the wall back then and so we decided to climb the Moon Bears route (5c, 2011).

Route is relatively new, it has been bolted between autumn 2010 and spring 2011 by Ermanno Salvaterra and Michel Ghezzi. It has total of 9 pitches and 2 of them are 5c. What makes this route special is the long dihedral-crack where the 5c pitches are. This dihedral makes the line logical and easy to follow and enjoyable to climb.

Bolting is good standard for multipitch routes but there are still few harder clips at the 5c pitches. All the anchor stands are also big enough for enjoyable belaying  which shows excellent design of the route.

Overall rock quality is good and the route is not polished. Few holds at the crux pitches are slightly polished but that doesn't make the climb any harder. First two easy 3a and 4a pitches are obviously more polished because the Amazzonia and Orizzonti Dolomitici share the first two pitches with Moon Bears.

Exit from the Moon Bears goes via traversing path through the woods towards easterly direction. Some parts of the path has via ferrata which helps with the narrow steps leading down to the Sarche.

Easy access, well thought line and a decent exit makes this route an excellent and relaxed to climb. Just try to avoid during the hot summer days when the wall is facing the sun most of the time. Recommended during cloudy summer days of during spring and autumn.

Crag grade: 4/5
Rock quality: 4/5
Bolting: 4/5
Surroundings/view: 4/5
Approach: 5/5

Exit: 3/5

See all photos:
Moon Bears, Piccolo Dain, 22.6.2015

Mika Huhtamaki / Author & Editor

Mika Huhtamäki is a part time amateur rock climber, mountain biker and a snowboarder from Finland who travels often in Italy.

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