keskiviikko 9. heinäkuuta 2014

Hunting black pearl - Perla Nera multipitch at Monte Colt


As accidentally we topped again one multipitch route. :) We were about to belay Trad Climbing Guru T for one traditional multipitch route until he got an other team mate, so we had to choose another one.

The first option was the Via Lattea, on Monte Colt crag. Length of 120 meters, four pitches, five stars (Sarca Walls Guidebook) and difficulty of 6b. Unfortunately this route is crowded, so we chose the black pearl, Perla Nera, on the other end of the Monte Colt multipitch sector. It is handy to remember almost the whole guidebook, to find a plan B route and avoid the short end of the stick situation. 

  • 5 stars (Sarca Walls Guidebook)
  • 100 meters
  • 4 pitches
  • 6b (5c pulling the quickdraw)
  • S1/I (S1 = Average distance between bolts 3 to 4 meters. Potential length of fall: some meters; fall without danger., I = Short Route, comfortable approach, nice surrounding and easy dowmclimb)

We managed with approach pretty well this time, because the track to Monte Colt follows the same path as the one to Red Point Wall Upper Sector. You just have to continue further over the the top, follow the power line and descent using via ferrata to the crag. The Monte Colt wall is surprisingly long, luckily there are some routes marked on wall to find the right one. There are also some new routes, which are not marked in the Sarca Wall guidebook 2007 version. As we planned to climb Via Lattea, which is the last route on the left, we checked the multipitch sector twice by hiking at first to the left end and then back to the right end to Perla Nera. This time Nora started to lead, to have Sami in action on the second, the hardest (6b), pitch. On the first pitch is said to be easy grade five climbing by guidebook (Sarca Walls, 2007). Ok, there are pretty good hand holds, which are very white, because of chalk, and in addition the profile is overhanging and moves aery. So, we think that the grade is a little sandbagged.

Sami's 6b pitch was quite tough, at first an overhang to cross, then delicate moves on slab to the roof and over it. The grade was very realistic, and perhaps the pitch was even easier than the Via Ape Maia's hardest pitch, if you chose the right line. Although, the route seems to be climbed pretty often, Sami dropped a cluster of rocks on the first overhang. Luckily, the belay stand was under the roof, so Nora was well covered. The third pitch was easy traverse with chimney and pillar topping in the end. The fourth pitch was again real climbing on slab with small foot holds and crimps. Maybe the difficulty was a bit harder than stands (5a/5b) in the guidebook. When Sami started to lead his last pitch, rain shower hit us. Luckily the shower was very light during Sami’s lead, but got harder and colder during Nora’s seconding. Despite the wetness, we didn’t slip and Sami’s last belay stand was in the shade of the trees. It was also very wise to carry raincoat with, like Sami did. Nora suffered her stupidity and got totally wet and cold after topping the route, because the wet shirt does not warm at all, when it winds.

This time Nora didn’t dig her iPhone for photoshoothing as often as before just to diminish drama. ;) When the descent from the top was very smooth and easy path down back to parking place, were both surprise trip and route all in all very successful and enjoyable.

/Sami & Nora

Nora / Author & Editor

Mika Huhtamäki is a part time amateur rock climber, mountain biker and a snowboarder from Finland who travels often in Italy.

0 kommenttia:

Lähetä kommentti

Coprights @ 2016, Blogger Template Designed By Templateism | Templatelib