keskiviikko 16. maaliskuuta 2016

Cascata di Fontanazzo di destra - ice screw tested!

Mika Huhtamaki

Time for an ice fall multi-pitch climb. Our target was in just behind of the small village Fontnazzo - Cascata di Fontanazzo di destra or Bus de Tone as locals call it. Climb follows a small creek that that connects a sequence of 5 ice falls into a nice multi-pitch graded WI4.

 Approach to the climb takes about 30 minutes from the parking just next to the little bridge near a kids playground just behind Fontanazzo village. Right spot is easy to recognize because the alternative climb Cascata di Fontanazzo di sinistra shows on the forest face.
Approach was slightly harder due the fresh snow but nothing overwhelming there. This time of the year the first pitch started from an open creek so getting wet would have been easy.

The 250 meter long route is mostly WI3 and only the last pitch is getting harder. But it does not mean that it is a walk in the park. The amount of snow was the hardest part and opening the ice was energy consuming duty for the leader.

The fresh snow was also causing the first serious danger during our winter holiday. On the 1st pitch the snow packed so that the grip to the ice was partially lost when screwing the second protection. The axe and crampons failed at a same time. That caused an upside down fall towards the creek. Luckily the screw hold and the bones and muscles did not got any hits from axe or screws! Ice climb leader must not fall!

Rest of the route went without any "close call" situations and we were able to enjoy the dolomite winter on its best!

See all photos:
Cascata di Fontanazzo di destra, 16.3.2016

Mika Huhtamaki / Author & Editor

Mika Huhtamäki is a part time amateur rock climber, mountain biker and a snowboarder from Finland who travels often in Italy.

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